1955 Ford 600

HatchetFF · Jan 13, 2018

Grandpa's old farm workhorse.

I'd like to get it running again, but it's sat for over 10 years. Definitely needs new battery, had old gas sit in it the whole time, fuel tank rusty, air filter disintegrating, muffler rotted through, and radiator cap missing so the radiator is full of junk.

The good news is the engine oil is black (not milky) and the hydraulic/transmission fluid is red with no signs of water intrusion.

I feel like before I ever even turn it over, I should empty the gas tank/carb/fuel sediment bowl, and disconnect the trash filled radiator. I wonder if it'd be ok to (attempt to) start it at that point, or would it be advisable to run without any coolant running through the system? Maybe run it with someone holding a hose into the radiator return?

I also feel like throwing a K&N cone filter on it will be much much much easier/cheaper than trying to mess with the stock setup which has rusted to pieces. Anyone take issue with that?

The tires have gone flat, and are probably 20+ years old and cracked all over. Any suggestions on trying to revive them?

Dollar Bill · Jan 13, 2018

Engine free?

Rings could be stuck - Remove spark plugs and pour in a tablespoon of ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil and let it soak overnight.

Don't mess with original tank. Use a lawn mower tank for temporary fuel supply.

Flush cooling system and refill with plain water. Drain if it will freeze overnight.

Air filter isn't too critical while you are evaluating condition of the tractor. K&N will clog up pretty quick working in the dust. Better to fix or replace the OEM oil bath filter when you are ready to put it in the field.

Just inflate the tires. Surface cracks are cosmetic - Tire paint will hide a lot. You have a ways to go before worrying about tires.

Keep us posted on your progress.

fried1765 · Jan 13, 2018

HatchetFF said:
Grandpa's old farm workhorse.

I'd like to get it running again, but it's sat for over 10 years. Definitely needs new battery, had old gas sit in it the whole time, fuel tank rusty, air filter disintegrating, muffler rotted through, and radiator cap missing so the radiator is full of junk.

The good news is the engine oil is black (not milky) and the hydraulic/transmission fluid is red with no signs of water intrusion.

I feel like before I ever even turn it over, I should empty the gas tank/carb/fuel sediment bowl, and disconnect the trash filled radiator. I wonder if it'd be ok to (attempt to) start it at that point, or would it be advisable to run without any coolant running through the system? Maybe run it with someone holding a hose into the radiator return?

I also feel like throwing a K&N cone filter on it will be much much much easier/cheaper than trying to mess with the stock setup which has rusted to pieces. Anyone take issue with that?

The tires have gone flat, and are probably 20+ years old and cracked all over. Any suggestions on trying to revive them?

Per "Dollar Bill" Do not worry about the tires. If they hold air they will be fine for quite a while.
I bought a 1951 8N in 1971. Had rear tires replaced, because rims (CACL) and tires were bad.
I replaced front tires just THIS past year. They were dry rotted, and badly weather checked. They had tubes, and still held air.... at 65 years old!

HatchetFF · Jan 13, 2018

Excellent info guys!

I only really mentioned the tires because that's such a potentially huge expense down the road - could be worth as much as the tractor itself! I hadn't considered tubes.. I wonder if it's already got tubes. The fronts I would be very surprised if they hold air, doesn't look like they're still on the bead.

But good point Dollar Bill that tires are the LAST consideration. Next trip to the farm I'll bring the breaker bar and my large sockets to try and turn the crank.

Any good suggestions on points ignition? It all looks pretty good but I've only ever messed with motorcycle points.

Dollar Bill · Jan 14, 2018

Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short.

Tune Up Part Numbers

Borg Warner - Available at O Reilly Auto Parts
Points A97H or for heavy duty A97V
Condenser G111 or G125 need to take your old one with you and compare
Rotor D130
Cap C144 (change rotor and cap at the same)
Spark Plugs AutoLite AL-437 or Champion H12

or

Points: NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condenser: NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor: NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap: NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128
Plug Wires: NAPA BEL 700172

Firing Order: 1-2-4-3
Timing: 5 degrees BTDC
Full Advance: 22 degrees
Point Gap: .025
Spark Plug Gap: .030

One other suggestion - Even though the fluids appear clear, remove each of the 3 drain plugs to let out any water that may have settled to the bottom.

kuschneider · Jan 14, 2018

I did a very similar revival a couple of years ago.

First order of business is likely a a rebuilt kit on the carburetor. I am sure the sediment bowl assembly needs some serious love.

Definitely rig up an external temp gas tank. We removed and thoroughly reconditioned the original

Set the gap on the points in your distributor, or just get a refurb kit for that.

Before cranking, verify the engine will turn freely, add a little ATF fluid down each cylinder. While the plugs are out give them a little cleaning, or just replace now.

I work on getting the radiator flushed out and any and all gunk out of their. Then refill will usuable coolant.

What is the status of the belt? Will it even survive if the engine fires?