1964 Ford tractor

[bluejacket60]

Looking for information on how to change oil and filter on PTO and tansmission a 1964 ford 8n tractor and also where is the filter located? My brother bought this tractor and this need sot be done.

 

[Soundguy]

welcome.

1st, we need toknow what tractor you are dealing with.

if it's a 64, it ain't an 8n.

if it's an 8n.. it ain't a 64.

as for oil and filter for the pto? I don't know of a unit that has a filter for the pto.

if unit is an SOS.. I'd say don't touch it till you get all the manuals.

most fords from 39-64 are just going to have a single oil filter... on the crankcase,, ad could be a spin on or cartridge depending on age of engine and model.

if you don't know what you have.. post pics and let us ID it for you.

too many variations between 39-64 for me to type in how to change the oil and filter on all the various sub types.

 

[bluejacket60]

Here is the photo of the tractor. Thanks for all your help.

 

[LD1]

What you have is a 1947-1950 8n. Serial number on the block would Give exact year.

Oil filter, fill location, and dipstick can all be seen in the 5th pic you posted just forward. The breather on the front is fill. The one behind that is the cartridge filter under that housing.

Rear axle and transmission fluid are one and the same. Use 90wt gear lube but make sure its yellow metal safe. Fill location is right by the gearshift.

I would also probably use non-detergent motor oil if it hasn't been rebuilt in the last 10 years or so. This can be debated, but modern detergent oil can break loose way too many years of built up gunk and wreak havoc.

Also, get the IT manual. Sound guy will most likely have the number for that

 

[ovrszd]

Good info for the OP guys. HEY, she's been upgraded to 12 Volt!!!

 

[Soundguy]

fo4 service manual.

i personally would go with detergent oil. many better choices.

besides. an N is a bypass filtration system anyway.

i see it has a fire-bomb external filter scabbed in hanging over the manifold.

i'd loose that quick!

 

[6string]

I have a '49 8N,get a FO-4 IT manual for it. Operator and shop(more detailed) manuals are also available. Google 8N tractor forums and visit or join every one. There is a lot of information,parts and implements out there.

 

[LD1]

i see it has a fire-bomb external filter scabbed in hanging over the manifold.

i'd loose that quick!

Good catch. I didnt even pick up on that in the tiny pics as viewed on my phone:laughing:

Without actually having a "filter" so to speak, the 8n actually had darn good fuel filtration, with 3 screens and the bowl. Only issues fuel related are usually plugged up screens. So you know they are doing their job:thumbsup:.

Yes, many better choices of modern oil for sure. But these things ran for several decades on non-detergent. Just saying....

I certainly dont want to derail the thread over an oil debate though. I certainly respect your opinion, especially on old fords. I'm just sharing what I have heard, and what we did prior to the rebuild of dads 8n. And several "old timers" said non-detergent only for the reason I mentioned. Now if there was any merit to that????????????????????

 

[Jerry/MT]

No gear oil in the transhydraulic system. Either SAE 90 GL-1 lube or UTF.

 

[LD1]

No gear oil in the transhydraulic system. Either SAE 90 GL-1 lube or UTF.

The GL part stands for Gear Lube......

But yes, no modern "automotive" gear lube. MUST be yellow metal safe.

 

[bluejacket60]

Thanks for all the help I am passing this information along to my brother.

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. the ep adds in the lubes are generally sulfur compounds. add a lil water in and you get some acidic compounds.

thus only lubes listed as mild ep are normally ok. that gives you the mineral gear oil 90w gl1 and even up to gl3. past that in the gl4/5 territory.. best to find one that says yellow metal safe and carrying an MT1 spec . many people carry one.. sometimes even walmart does.

on the ND oil.

i don't doubt that years of varnish might start coming off.

here's what i have done on any real dirty engine i have found.. whether i think it was ND oil.. or just years of neglect.

go buy a bulk container of CHEAP oil... cheap as you can get.. can be an old s rating.

do an oil change with 4qts of that and 1.5 qts of type f or dex/merc3 atf. and put in a cheapy 3$ fram c3 oil filter.

run an hour.. then change.


the detergents in the oil won't make 50ys worth of sludge immediatly move.. it will start disolving and suspending it though.

i've done as many as 5 oil changes in succession over a couple days and good warm / hot running on a dirty engine.

ie.. go mowing for a couple hours and come back.

I had a jd b that was so dirty.. the first 3 changes came back with oil that looked like it came out of a diesel.

4th was tinged but better.. and 5th was 'normal.

I called it good there.

ont he N.. the c3 is a 3$ filter.. and I'd change it with each change.

then go to a better napa 1010 or the bettter fram c3P.

if the engine IS real dirty. a multi step oil change program is the best of both worlds.

no worry about it dumping lots of gunk on a premium oil change while waiting till next year for the next change.

all good points mentioned by those helping here.