On my BENYE (Rhino 254 4 Wheel Drive) the manual calls out for 90w to be used in the Front axle. I wasn't able to find 90W, but JT-7 85W-140 mult purpose gear lubricant was available. I drain all the existing gear lubricant and filled with this JT-7 85w-140. Now I'm wondering if using this 85W-140 gear lubricant a smart move or should I drain it and search for the 90W?
1st post, BENYE 254 the front axle lubricant
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greg_g
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I could make my answer a lot shorter if I knew where you live, and whether or not the tractor gets used 12 months of the year.
//greg//
//greg//
lakespirit
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If it's really hot where you live, the oil you have should be fine. Otherwise try and find some 80W-90.
greg_g
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Nor whether you use it in the winter. Oh well. 80W90 does quite well in cool to moderate climates and for year round service. Folks in warm to hot climates - or those who put the tractor up for the winter - lean towards 85W140. I use mine 12 months of the year - but it gets hot enough here where 80W90 get too thin for my liking during July/Aug. So I've begun to switch over to 85W140.gashog said:
I figure these Chinese tractors are reasonably broken in by the time they accumulate 300 hours. At that time I'll be giving 75W140 synthetic some consideration.
//greg//
Thanks of all the responses, I'm totally new to this tractor thing and I don't want to ruin my tractor. One More question I purchased Atwoods house brand Universal Trans-Hydraulic fluid. I used this fluid to top off the Transmission and Hydraulic reservoir. Figured this was a no brainer, was I right?
Soundguy
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Compair the specs on that UTF to the ones called out in your manual. The biggest differences in UTF's that I have seen is whether or not they are formulated for wet brakes / clutches.. etc..
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greg_g
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If you have two separate sumps (reserviors) UTF is the wrong stuff. It's meant to be used in a common sump, where one fluid is shared by BOTH the tranny/diff AND the hydraulics.gashog said:
If your Benye has separate sumps, you should use gear oil for the gears and hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics. I had a Yanmar and a JD, each with a common sump, and I've owned four Chinese tractors now - each with separate sumps. It's my opinion that - in the Chinese tractors - that UTF is too thin for the gears and too thick for the hydraulics.
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Soundguy
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Are chinese hyds that picky??... most big3 tractors I know of are speccing utf for hyds.. etc.. While i like gear oil in seperate sump systems.. utf in hyds , especially in anything but arctic conditions hardly seems 'thick'..
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greg_g
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Generally yes. A very VERY common issue raised by new Jinma 200 series owers for example, is "my TPH and steering didn't work this morning. But after the tractor ran for about 15 minutes, everything went back to normal ". In almost every case, this complaint is raised after starting the tractor after the first cold night in the fall. In almost every case, the issue is fixed by the drain/flush/refill with AW32.Soundguy said:
The soup the factories put in there is some sickly looking equivalent to 30W engine oil. Yes, UTF is generally multi-vis. But. At 100 degrees Farenheit, its viscosity is still nearly equivalent to that of 30W engine oil ( http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/0-999/2016.pdf ). AW32 on the other hand is the (single) viscosity equivalent to 10W, and simply doesn't need that "thinning out time" that UTF requires. On the opposite end of the stick, UTF is too thin for the geared creepers/shuttles and trannys and diffs. Again, the Chinese generally ship these things with that awful 30W crap. Their manuals typically specify 40W summer and 30W winter. 80W90 gear oil has a 20W50 engine oil equivalency. As you can see in the chart below, UTF will thin down too much at operating temperature.
But as with everything else, there is the occasional exception; my KM454 power steering for example. Steering gets so hard after 2-3 hours of mowing in the heat of the summer, that I had to simply shut down and wait for the AW32 to cool down. The dealer says it's due to the design of a relief valve internal to the pump itself. When this issue reappeared the 2nd summer, I started experimenting with progressively thicker fluid in the steering system. I eventually resolved the problem with Valvoline 50W racing oil. As soon as I can find a convenient source of ISO220, I'll replace the engine oil.
That said, UTF is the wrong fluid for this job. Too many folks are taken in by the word UNIVERSAL on the label. I think you'll agree, the stuff inside is not actually universal. It's only for applications where the manufacturer specifies the use of UTF.
//greg//
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