2 Series tractors

woodlandfarms · Sep 11, 2009

You know Wasabi, I just went to the PT site and I forget how different the 2 series is from the 1 series. I forget you are riding on the top of the engine, and that the you are following the front section and not leading in the front section (you drive from the rear section).

I looked at that seat... You got room to raise up about 4" or so? Looks like you might have to rejigger the engine compartment, but then how do you run the backhoe? A flipper stile seat like the John Deer might work...

Still a very cool tractor. When you bought it did they give you a slope limit?

wasabi · Sep 15, 2009

woodlandfarms said:
You know Wasabi, I just went to the PT site and I forget how different the 2 series is from the 1 series. I forget you are riding on the top of the engine, and that the you are following the front section and not leading in the front section (you drive from the rear section).

I looked at that seat... You got room to raise up about 4" or so? Looks like you might have to rejigger the engine compartment, but then how do you run the backhoe? A flipper stile seat like the John Deer might work...

Still a very cool tractor. When you bought it did they give you a slope limit?

Bought it used from a priivate party....no slope limit or user manuals provided.....my wag is it will handle 40 degrees w/dualies

I'm six foot. When seated I maybe have 4 to 5" above my head. Hittiing my head a few times on that 1/4" steel has convinced me to buckle up. Not much margin for error, so height is definately an issue...

No room for re-jiggering the engine compartment or cover. The seat is mounted on a 1/4" steel disk that pivots on a center bolt. It works just fine for the occasional backhoe needs. I'm just thinking of adding some hardware to re-mount the seat (or a new one) on a 30% tilting affair managed by a small hydr cylinder and mercury activated switch...

J_J · Sep 15, 2009

wasabi said:
Bought it used from a private party....no slope limit or user manuals provided.....my wag is it will handle 40 degrees w/dualies

I'm six foot. When seated I maybe have 4 to 5" above my head. Hitting my head a few times on that 1/4" steel has convinced me to buckle up. Not much margin for error, so height is definitely an issue...

No room for re-jiggering the engine compartment or cover. The seat is mounted on a 1/4" steel disk that pivots on a center bolt. It works just fine for the occasional backhoe needs. I'm just thinking of adding some hardware to re-mount the seat (or a new one) on a 30% tilting affair managed by a small hyd cylinder and mercury activated switch...

My 1445 will not handle duals, and I don't think yours will either. Unless you build some long spacers. I don't think you can reverse your wheels, and if you can't reverse, duals will be a problem. The deep dish part of the wheel goes to the frame side, like on Carl's machine, and the shallow part of the other wheel connects with a spacer. I believe this is correct. If not, I am sure someone will tell me.

wasabi · Sep 15, 2009

J_J said:
My 1445 will not handle duals, and I don't think yours will either. Unless you build some long spacers. I don't think you can reverse your wheels, and if you can't reverse, duals will be a problem. The deep dish part of the wheel goes to the frame side, like on Carl's machine, and the shallow part of the other wheel connects with a spacer. I believe this is correct. If not, I am sure someone will tell me.

According to Terry at PT the wheel motors I have will handle it....

With smaller wheels and tires I'm not concerned about ability to reverse the ones i have.
don't you have a friend who provides custom built sturdy wheels, spacers and sells tires?

ponytug · Sep 15, 2009

Hmmm. The design of the 2XXX series must be different, as Terry assured me that my 1445 motors wouldn't take the lateral loads.

Of course, since I was only planning on using it for mowing, I'm not sure it matters, but then you have to deal with the tires sticking out beyond the mowed area...

All the best,

Peter

wasabi said:
According to Terry at PT the wheel motors I have will handle it....

With smaller wheels and tires I'm not concerned about ability to reverse the ones i have.
don't you have a friend who provides custom built sturdy wheels, spacers and sells tires?

J_J · Sep 15, 2009

wasabi said:
According to Terry at PT the wheel motors I have will handle it....

With smaller wheels and tires I'm not concerned about ability to reverse the ones i have.
don't you have a friend who provides custom built sturdy wheels, spacers and sells tires?

The wheel manufacture can make you just about anything within a safe design. Now, the adapter would have to be custom made. If you were to use the current wheel, and wanted dualys, you would have to have a strong tube with ends on with 6 holes, and some way to be able to bolt the adapter on, Maybe a slot in the tube to screw in lug nuts. Then you would bolt the shallow side of the wheel to that tube, and a spacer to secure the upper portion of the rim.

Years ago on one of my old lawn tractors, Sears had an adapter that was made with square tubing , about 12 in long with bolt hole protrusion for the 4 bolts on each end. Seem to work alright.

If you had a cad program, you could take measurements and put all that in the cad program to see if all things would fit together.

wasabi · Sep 15, 2009

ponytug said:
Hmmm. The design of the 2XXX series must be different, as Terry assured me that my 1445 motors wouldn't take the lateral loads.

Of course, since I was only planning on using it for mowing, I'm not sure it matters, but then you have to deal with the tires sticking out beyond the mowed area...

All the best,

Peter

If the mower is 72" we should be close....um, perhaps we can find some sort of info plate on respective motors to further compare...(it be nice to have some sort of manual or interactive website...forgive me, i dream...)

woodlandfarms · Sep 16, 2009

Jeez, I responded on the other link and did not see the conversation on this one, sorry....

My vote for extending the wheels is to "push" the 2445 wheel motor out, But them in a steel box and weld that box to the frame. The bottom of the boxes should be connected by a long flat piece of steel under the belly for added support.

In looking at my 1850, With the wheel motor basically encased in the inner wheel, and the outer wheel coming from the end of the motor onward, I don't know if there is all that much torque there....

As for the direction of the tread, personally I think it is overrated. The PT does not have enough ground OOMPH to gain from the direction of the tread. But just in case, I try to put one wheel patterend forward, and the other patterned backward. I generally do the inside forward, and the outside backward.

ps, does your butt get hot from the position of the seat? I think it would be murder back hoeing or tractoring...

SpringHollow · Sep 16, 2009

Tread direction makes a HUGE difference as far as loading up the tread with wet clay. Going forward, i am usually okay in the muck. If i go in reverse, the tires almost instantly become a slick ball of clay with zero traction. So I have been tempted to have each tire of a pair facing in opposite directions when in that situation. But fortunately, i have to needed to since i thought of trying it.

Also, it seems like my wheels spin much more in reverse but that is usually backing uphill (seems like i am always working facing downhill) and often using ground attachments (box blade, etc).

Ken