2003 starting issue Kabota BX2200

[mtc005]

I have been having a big time. 5 years of great service and this 550 hour tractor dumped on me. After replacing the 2 filters, fuel pump the tractor tries to start. I also drained the tank and vacuumed out all the debris in the tank, which was surprising at what all was in there. Sometimes it runs on its own for a moment or so. I am getting fuel fine. I fear the cut off solenoid may be bad. I read the other post about fuel solenoids and when I disconnect the pigtail the tractor doesn't try to start at all. Which makes be lean toward the solenoid being powered up for the tractor to get fuel. My big concern is when you touch the solenoid (just when the key has been on) it will burn your finger bad if you don't remove it quickly. This may be one of those "here's your sign questions", but it hot here in Texas, does anyone have any experience with this?

 

[mtc005]

I have been having a big time. 5 years of great service and this 550 hour tractor dumped on me. After replacing the 2 filters, fuel pump the tractor tries to start. I also drained the tank and vacuumed out all the debris in the tank, which was surprising at what all was in there. Sometimes it runs on its own for a moment or so. I am getting fuel fine. I fear the cut off solenoid may be bad. I read the other post about fuel solenoids and when I disconnect the pigtail the tractor doesn't try to start at all. Which makes be lean toward the solenoid being powered up for the tractor to get fuel. My big concern is when you touch the solenoid (just when the key has been on) it will burn your finger bad if you don't remove it quickly. This may be one of those "here's your sign questions", but it hot here in Texas, does anyone have any experience with this?

(a week later) The kill solenoid appears to be functioning properly. I removed it from the motor and when the key is in start position, it retracts. When the key is in run position, it stays retracted. When the key is turned to the off position, the solenoid clicks and extends out. WD40 starts the tractor when the air filter is removed. All forum posts I have read say when you change filters, just turn the key on and the fuel pump will take care of it, that there is no need to bleed the system. I cracked the nut where the fuel line goes into the injector pump. Fuel pours out. There is 2 small fuel lines on the front and back injector. If the key is on, fuel will pour out. When I crack the injector nuts while the engine is being turned over, there is minimal activity. A little diesel with bubbles on the back two, a small sporadic spurt from the front. This tractor was running fine until I tried to load it a month ago. The nipple on the fuel pump got a crack in it. The Kabota parts store didn't have one in stock (and it was $140) so I bought one at a local parts store that said it had 4-7 psi. I later bought one on line
that was suppose to be for this tractor for $40. When I try to start it, it acts like it wants to start, sometimes even continuing to spin for 15 seconds after I move the key into the run position. I have bought a 5/16 fuel line, connected the back of the fuel pump into a can of fuel to eliminate the possibility of debris in the fuel tank blocking the flow. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[stevem5215]

Defective fuel pump ? Something is stopping it from getting fuel. You gotta figure that one out.

Steve

 

[mtc005]

Defective fuel pump ? Something is stopping it from getting fuel. You gotta figure that one out.

Steve

Sometimes a different view makes all the difference. There have been several times in my past that a part from the supplier has been defective. That is very frustrating to purchase a new part and have to buy another because it doesn't work. And all the time you have to waste to get to where you need to be. I called Kabota and asked what the fuel pressure off the pump should be after searching the manual to no avail. The response was a steady stream. I guess I hoped for 8 PSI or something definitive. Thanks Steve, I guess I needed a nudge to move forward. These things are a process of elimination. I will repost after I run a couple of tests.

 

[mtc005]

Sometimes a different view makes all the difference. There have been several times in my past that a part from the supplier has been defective. That is very frustrating to purchase a new part and have to buy another because it doesn't work. And all the time you have to waste to get to where you need to be. I called Kabota and asked what the fuel pressure off the pump should be after searching the manual to no avail. The response was a steady stream. I guess I hoped for 8 PSI or something definitive. Thanks Steve, I guess I needed a nudge to move forward. These things are a process of elimination. I will repost after I run a couple of tests.

My new fuel pump came in. $161.50 from Kabota. I hooked it up and after spitting about for a moment the tractor sounded great. The first time it has run for over a month. I was very happy to say the least. I let it run for about 20 minutes and shut it off. It would not restart. It sputtered and wanted to start but didn't. My associate reminded me that when we used it in the past, we would leave it running because there was a problem in that after it warmed up and was shut down, it would not restart until it had sat for a few hours and cooled off. So we left would leave it running for 2-3 hours at a time in the past, until we finished the job we were using it for. I turned my attention to the kill solenoid. I had tested it cold before and it did great. Today it didn't. Normally you can hear the loud click when the engine is turned off and the spring shoves the pin out to kill the motor. While the motor was at operating temperature, it would not retract when the key was in the start position. The solenoid smoked and I shut off power to it. For now I sawed off the kill pin, mounted the solenoid to fill the void and left the pigtail unconnected. If I can get the tractor to start in the meantime, I can move the lever next to the throttle lever to kill the tractor. I turned my attention back to the fuel. I drained the tank for the third time and used a shop vac to suck the debris from the tank, again. It amazes me what all has been floating around in there. Each time I do this, there are several tablespoons of black "stuff" that comes out. The first time I reached my hand in and a thick pancake sized piece about 4" across and 1/2 inch thick came out. While draining the tank each time, the fuel turns from a light yellow to clear "like water" at the bottom of the tank. I replaced the fuel filters for the third time. I am using a treatment to remove the water from the fuel. If the tank were not in such a challenging position in the bowels of the tractor, I would consider replacing it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[mtc005]

My new fuel pump came in. $161.50 from Kabota. I hooked it up and after spitting about for a moment the tractor sounded great. The first time it has run for over a month. I was very happy to say the least. I let it run for about 20 minutes and shut it off. It would not restart. It sputtered and wanted to start but didn't. My associate reminded me that when we used it in the past, we would leave it running because there was a problem in that after it warmed up and was shut down, it would not restart until it had sat for a few hours and cooled off. So we left would leave it running for 2-3 hours at a time in the past, until we finished the job we were using it for. I turned my attention to the kill solenoid. I had tested it cold before and it did great. Today it didn't. Normally you can hear the loud click when the engine is turned off and the spring shoves the pin out to kill the motor. While the motor was at operating temperature, it would not retract when the key was in the start position. The solenoid smoked and I shut off power to it. For now I sawed off the kill pin, mounted the solenoid to fill the void and left the pigtail unconnected. If I can get the tractor to start in the meantime, I can move the lever next to the throttle lever to kill the tractor. I turned my attention back to the fuel. I drained the tank for the third time and used a shop vac to suck the debris from the tank, again. It amazes me what all has been floating around in there. Each time I do this, there are several tablespoons of black "stuff" that comes out. The first time I reached my hand in and a thick pancake sized piece about 4" across and 1/2 inch thick came out. While draining the tank each time, the fuel turns from a light yellow to clear "like water" at the bottom of the tank. I replaced the fuel filters for the third time. I am using a treatment to remove the water from the fuel. If the tank were not in such a challenging position in the bowels of the tractor, I would consider replacing it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have ordered a parts, operator and service manual for this tractor. I ordered the key switch, kill solenoid and all new filters and oil. The fuel tank and fuel sending unit are reasonably priced should I need them. Replacing it is a booger. Should this tractor have an engine issue, it would cost over 5K. I hate to seem hung up on this, but when it is running, it sounds great. These issues started when I entered it into an auction. I hate the idea that someone wanted to get an awesome tractor cheap by a few strategic moves before the auction. After I sent the pics in, all four nipples on the fuel tank mysteriously broke and water kept arriving in the fuel tank. I drilled, tapped and installed brass fittings in each and there are no air bubbles in the front fuel filter. In my history, the worst thing to work on is something that some moron has tinkered with. I let the auction go by and passed at the final 5750 bid. I feel comfortable that this backhoe, tractor and bucket will part out for considerably more than that. (worst case scenario) I want to get the tractor back to the glory it once was. Any thoughts would be appreciated.