2005 Jinma 284 Electrical Problem

[zfreak28]

Well,

I am really loving my pre-loved Jinma 284. However I would love it more if I could tell what the temp , oil pressure, RPM and if my lights are on.

I do have the AMP meter working to a degree. I have removed the fuse box from the braket while it was running and "wiggled" the wires around and was able to get the cluster to all function if only for a breif moment.

My question is, does anyone know if it my be the voltage repulator or a fuse or just a bad connection on a wire... if its a wire, which one should i be focused on?

Thanks for any assistance.

PS. the fuse block is relatively cheap... but how hard mechanically are they to replace?

 

[Affordable]

The fuse box just has 3- plug ins on it and a Bolt holding it on.

Look at a big White wire at one of the big plug ins from the fuse box.and where it plugs in at by the fuel tank, This wire has caused us alot of trouble over the years. If you wiggle it while the tractor is running you can tell if it's causing the problems


Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[RonMar]

Well first off, I would get my hands on a volt meter... That is the easiest way to look for voltage at various points to help determine what the issue is. It will also tell you if the voltage regulator is controlling the alternator at the appropriate voltage of 14-15 VDC.

All the gauges are powered by the headlight fuse, so if your headlights are working, the issue lies somewhere between where the wire taps off of the headlight circuit after the fuse, and reaches the gauges. Here is a link to a thread where I uploaded a schematic I drew based on my 2005 Jinma. There should be little plastic number bands identifying your wires. The numbers on the schematic reference the wiring numbers on the tractor.

Good Luck

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...28-jinma-284-electrical-schematic-2005-a.html

 

[greg_g]

All the gauges are powered by the headlight fuse,

except for the ammeter

//greg//

 

[zfreak28]

Well first off, I would get my hands on a volt meter... That is the easiest way to look for voltage at various points to help determine what the issue is. It will also tell you if the voltage regulator is controlling the alternator at the appropriate voltage of 14-15 VDC.

All the gauges are powered by the headlight fuse, so if your headlights are working, the issue lies somewhere between where the wire taps off of the headlight circuit after the fuse, and reaches the gauges. Here is a link to a thread where I uploaded a schematic I drew based on my 2005 Jinma. There should be little plastic number bands identifying your wires. The numbers on the schematic reference the wiring numbers on the tractor.

Good Luck

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...28-jinma-284-electrical-schematic-2005-a.html[/QUOTE]

Unfortunately my headlights and anything else for that matter are not working. The only thing that is working is the ammeter.
I have read on a post that someone had a fuse that was not blown but also was not working. Can this be it, or should I just start wiggling the white wire?
Looking at the wire diagram, is the white wire to be wiggled # 3

 

[RonMar]

Well no headlights as well as anything else is a pretty important clue If the ammmeter is working, wire 3 is OK, as is wire 5 to the key since I am assuming you can crank/start the engine?. The problem could lie in the "ON" contacts in the key switch itself. The key is a common point of failure, mine was delivered with a bad key switch. Measuring voltage between terminal 2 of the key switch to ground should show 12V when the key is turned on, no voltage indicates a bad key switch. IF voltage is present on key terminal 2 with the key on, wire 6 which feeds power back to the fuse panel to feed ALL the remaining fuses could be a problem. Measuring power at the fuses, or the connector plug that feeds them from the key would be the next place to measure. It could be as simple as the screw at terminal 2 came loose and wire 6 is hanging in the breeze, or a bad terminal lug or a bad pin in the fuse block connector...

 

[zfreak28]

Well no headlights as well as anything else is a pretty important clue If the ammmeter is working, wire 3 is OK, as is wire 5 to the key since I am assuming you can crank/start the engine?. The problem could lie in the "ON" contacts in the key switch itself. The key is a common point of failure, mine was delivered with a bad key switch. Measuring voltage between terminal 2 of the key switch to ground should show 12V when the key is turned on, no voltage indicates a bad key switch. IF voltage is present on key terminal 2 with the key on, wire 6 which feeds power back to the fuse panel to feed ALL the remaining fuses could be a problem. Measuring power at the fuses, or the connector plug that feeds them from the key would be the next place to measure. It could be as simple as the screw at terminal 2 came loose and wire 6 is hanging in the breeze, or a bad terminal lug or a bad pin in the fuse block connector...

Indeed the tractor runs like a Boss. I have a sneaking suspicion that it is wire 6 being loose at the switch or the fuse block. Looking at the diagram, the location of it is pretty darn close to where I was wiggling / jiggling the fuse block when all the instrument gauges came to life. It is suppose to be really nice this weekend, so I may fuss with it some and see if I can work it out...

Thanks all for the direction and valuable insight. I'd like to be able to go a little on the road to get some firewood and no lights or gauges is a big hinderance.

 

[RonMar]

I'd like to be able to go a little on the road to get some firewood and no lights or gauges is a big hinderance.

So is overheating the engine or running it with no oil pressure

 

[jumperjoe]

I you haven't done so replace all the fuses the original one are junk they look ok but they cause the symptoms you are experiencing - i did the same thing about 4 years ago an no problems since

 

[zfreak28]

I you haven't done so replace all the fuses the original one are junk they look ok but they cause the symptoms you are experiencing - i did the same thing about 4 years ago an no problems since

Ahhh yes,

So we looked at the fuse block and put a volt meter to it, turns out that there was power getting to one side of the fuse block which is good. Then we starting looking a little closer and noticed that most of the ears of the female fuse terminal were broke. So, we bypassed the fuse block and wired in a fuse directly for the head light fuse..and low and behold I now have dash guages, head lights. I would also say that I have a tail light, not plural as one tail light bulb was burned out and one socket was rusted so bad that no way for it to get power to it.
PS. We did eventually change all the fuses with new as like you mentioned, the originals were looking pretty junky.

In going thru the tractor, we found a few mechanical issues, but I will post these to a new thread....

Thanks so much for all the great feedback and advice.. I now feel comfrtable going down the road to get firewood...