2007 Kawasaki 3010 mule no fire in the rear cylinder

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I just got this repaired and wanted to give the next guy a "heads up". Just last month, I repaired a Deere HPX gator that has the same v-twin Kawi 620 engine. It needed the dreaded ignitor box. $305. It had no spark on either cylinder. I have a buddy that repairs these things and he says sometimes the ignitor box can go bad for either or both cylinders.

So I had my wife's uncle (owner) order the ignitor and I installed it. Still no spark on rear cylinder. Did some googling and found out that the coils can go bad too, so I stopped and bought a new one $73 with tax. It is not easy to remove and install the rear coil (the front one is easy). You need a small, short, 5/16" or 8mm ratchet box end wrench, some patience, and a good back. Some will tell you that you have to remove a lot of stuff to get it out, but I didn't. Got it hooked up and had great spark. So now I need to see if the company will take back the ignitor electrical part, or if they won't, I'll sell it on ebay and recoup what I can.

So if you have more time than money, you can swap out the front and rear coils to see if you have spark on the opposite cylinder. If so, you just need the $73 dollar part.

I read that you are not supposed to turn the motor over with out the plugs grounded, giving the spark someplace to go. It could damage the ignitor.

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting. How did you know you didn't have spark in the rear cylinder? Loss of power?

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Interesting. How did you know you didn't have spark in the rear cylinder? Loss of power?

Yes, definite loss of power and not wanting to idle.

Pulled the plug out of the head, grounded it and turned the engine over to check spark. Also used my infrared fluke gun to check the temps of the individual exhaust pipes.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I went ahead and did a valve adjustment on it. It has 248 hours IIRC. Both intake valves were too tight. They should be .010". One was at .006" The other at .008". One exhast valve was a bit tight, and the other was still fine.

Put some Mobil 1 10-40 motorcycle oil in it, and a new WIX oil filter. New air filter and converter breather filter. I probably could recommend to just clean the torque converter breather filter. New plugs and it's good to go. Oh, he also wanted me to fix the horn. The problem was an oxidized set of contacts under the steering cap that you push to honk.

 

[EddieWalker]

My Mule is 2011 mdel year with fuel injection. Twice something to do with its smog immisions has gone bad on it and Kawasaki fixed it. Something to do with carbon build up. They can either scrape the carbon off, or replace it. The last time they upgraded it to something new that is supposed to solve the problem. What happens is it won't idle, and it surges when starting off. Wish I could think of the name of the part, but it probably doesn't exist on yours. I think it's only on the fuel injection models