2008 roofing project

[Cade]

I figured I can use my tractor to throw the old shingles into the FEL and then into a truck. I need to also come up with an idea to use the FEL to lift the new shingles up to the roofline. Not sure what style shingles to go with ie 3 tab, architectural or which name brand. Let me know what you guys used and if you liked the product.

Thanks in advance

 

[MrJimi]

I had my 38 squares of architectural shingles delivered on the roof

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I personally prefer Elk's High Definition shingles but if I recall Elk was bought by GAF. GAF makes decent shingles but does not have the same quality that Elk had. I do not care for Tamko and am indifferent on IKO. I do not like 3 tab shingles as they do not seem to hold up as well as the raised profile shingles. The 3 tabs require more attention when installing so that the lines stay straight both vertically and horizontally along the roof. The raised profile shingles are very easy and fast to install and generally have a longer warranty then a 3 tab shingle. I have never had a problem with a raised profile shingle blowing off with wind either while 3 tabs have this problem from time to time.

There are other variations of tabbed shingles though that might be an option if you like the tab look. When we did my fathers house we went with GAF's Slateline shingle which is a lifetime warranty 6 tab shingle which resembles a slate roof. We have never had a problem with those shingles as they are a higher quality and you could see the quality in the shingle.

As for using your tractor to remove the debris, are you planning on loading directly off the roof and into the bucket or drop the old shingles to the ground and pick them up manually into the bucket. If you are going to go directly from the roof you will want to protect your tractors hood from a stray shingle that might roll off the roof or miss the bucket. Also, have a magnet there so before you move the tractor to dump the bucket you can run the magnet in front and behind both front tires looking for nails.

As for lifting the shingles, just put as many bungles in the bucket that your tractor can hold/handle. Unless you have a very heavy tractor I would not want to lift an entire pallet. I have lifted a full pallet of GAF's raised profile shingles but that was with a TN65 with filled tires and with my heavy box blade and over 500 pounds of suitcase weights hung off of the box blade. The pallet was still more then the TN "wanted" to lift but we only had to unload 20 bundles on the one section then move to another section where we unloaded the rest. When we did my grandfathers roof he just used the TLB and loaded as many bundles into the bucket as he could and we unloaded them and started shingling while he loaded another bucket. When that was loaded he raised it and my father my cousin unloaded that bucket while my father and I kept throwing shingles. This way we were able to stay in front of the full bundles as they came up.

If you are planning on using a tractor tight to your home make sure you have a good spotter helping as you don't want to damage your home.

 

[Dunham Farm]

I just put the shingles in the bucket and raised them up on to my roof when I built my house.
Brian

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I had my 38 squares of architectural shingles delivered on the roof

That is the way to do it if you are ready for the shingles. But if the OP is hoping to do this on his own he most likely wants to have the shingles on site before he starts tearing. I always love the jobs when it works out for us to have the shingles roof topped. However, most of our roofs we do are extreme tear off's where we strip a section and cover it before we start the next section.

 

[Cade]

Good points. I plan on tarping around the entire house and throwing the shingles on one pile in the driveway and then using the FEL.

I helped with a roof last year using architectural shingles. I like the slate 3d look. I can't remember the name brand. I know the owner of the house was happy that he didnt get the shingles delivered ontop of the roof since we had to replace numeroud sheets of plywood. It was spungie and we also had to add support to the roof rafters because of the random spacing. It was an ranch house built in the 70's. We used a nail gun, but now that it's my house I may hnd nail to avoid missing the sheathing.

My place was built on the 90's and it is a cape code with 2 dormers. I am tearing down the chimney and I will later put in a metal chimney for a wood stove. The exhisting chimney is cracked and did leak damaging the plywood sheathing in the attic. Any thoughts on skyllights? I have two now that are on about a 3/12 pitched roof that occassionaly leak. I would love to replace them, however I don't want the headache of patching a leaky skylight. My biggest concern is that there is about a 9/12 pitch on the front of the house. I haven't used roof jacks and I cam only imagine that it will slow down production.

I live in the woods and get little sunshine. I then get mold spores on the roof and black streaks. I believe there are shingles that prevent mold. Anyone hear about this or was i dreaming; or does anyone know if it actually works.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I prefer Arch shingles over the 3 tabs, but have used both over the years.
I have Tamko 30yr arch shingles. I recommend having them delivered to the roof, I don't remember it costing much more. Have a few on the ground for starting.
Do make sure they are AR (algae relief). The new shingles use a lot less asphalt in them, and they are prone to promote the growth of algae on the roof.

I also nail mine, little slower but I think it is better. I used jacks for 9/12 pitch, buy about 3 pairs and it goes pretty fast.

 

[wedge40]

I live in the woods and get little sunshine. I then get mold spores on the roof and black streaks. I believe there are shingles that prevent mold. Anyone hear about this or was i dreaming; or does anyone know if it actually works.

I've heard of people putting a strip of galvanized metal on the peak and the acid from the metal will keep/clean the mold off.

Wedge

 

[MAYOR8020]

YES BY ALL MEANS USE ARCHS i personaly sell iko and gaf/elk both top notch shings both are avil in (AR) i would also use iwp ice water protector on eaves valleys and dormers and skys this is very good insurance. as far as skys velux is the only name i would trust thay have a edl stepflash kit that is 2nd to none also make sure you use o good qual ridge vent maybe trimline (ridgid roll) bout 45bucks well worth. got any ? let me know i sell this and do many roofs myslef

 

[mikim]

Any thoughts on skyllights?
a hole in the roof that will leak at some point and probably continue to do so........I don't want any holes in my roof that aren't absolutely required...in my house or in my vehicles. In Texas it just makes an additional heat gain causing us to use more electricity to cool the inside....no thanks