2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure

   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure #1  

Roger G

New member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
20
Location
Northern Idaho
I have a new 2010 5600 Toolcat that had a hydraulic line fail after 13 months and 530 hours of use. Hydraulic leak showed up as visible drips all along the center frame front to rear. Traced the leak to a hose coming out of the pump next to the exhaust pipe of the engine. The leak was dripping down to the top of the center frame and spreading front to rear on the center frame. The heat of the engine had baked the hose at the crimp connection causing the leak. The local Bobcat dealer said that they had replaced those hoses before and that they were a pain to change as the only way to remove the hose was to pull the engine due to the tight space between pump and the engine's heat shield. They said I would have to bring the machine in to their shop to have it repaired.

The hose goes from the pump down to a block with 7 hoses attached.

So I ordered a new hose; purchased a one inch crows foot wrench; used a chisel to remove the plastic washer next to the nut so that the crows foot tool would slide on the nut; turned the ratchet; loosened the nut with ease; did the same with the nut on the pump; and had the hose off in five minutes. Took the new hose and pushed the bottom end down in between the pump and engine holding the hose in a curve shape so that it would slide across the top of the center frame and slid it back to the block. The hose has a push in connector for each end. I had the new hose installed in less than five minutes.

I suspect all Toolcats with this design will have this hose baked by the engine heat causing the hose to crack and leak at the crimp fitting next to the pump.

First photo shows hose coming out of pump next to top of engine. Second photo shows hose connecting to block. All locations visible when you raise the bed.
 

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   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure #2  
Thanks for the heads up on this potential problem and for your common sense, cost-effective solution.

DEWFPO
 
   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure #3  
Sounds like my dealer- big hat, no cattle.

Mine wanted to pull the engine to adjust the valves. It turns out that there is an access plate under the front passenger seat for that task.

There may be a business opportunity in independent toolcat repair shops.
 
   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure #4  
I checked that hose on my '09 Toolcat today and it appears that the steel bracket (for lack of a better term) on my '09 is much taller than the one shown in your first picture.

That steel bracket is several inches tall and to some degree protects the hose from the exhaust side of the turbo. Unfortunately there's virtually no room for that hose in there and the metal art of the hose elbow is directly against the bracket which I'm sure gets pretty darn hot being so close to the turbo.

DEWFPO
 
   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Original photo was taken with upper metal shroud removed to access hose. Here is a photo showing the upper metal shroud installed.

When taking the photo, I noticed that the heat shield above the engine had become loose. In the second photo you can also see where I rerouted the washer fluid line, which used to run under the reservoir and melted due to the heat when the machine was almost new.

Third photo shows where I rerouted the exhaust pipe, which used to be under the machine in a position that would fill the cab with fumes when blowing deep snow.
 

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   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure #6  
That's about how mine looks. The metal crimp on the hydraulic line is against the turbo shield. You can see rust bleeding down the aluminum crimp. Is there any play in the shield mounting bolts? Maybe I can loosen the shield and put some sort of heat insulation between that line and the shield?

DEWFPO
 

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   / 2010 Toolcat hydraulic line failure
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Upper metal shroud locks into lower metal shroud. I am going to install an electric cooling fan for the engine compartment for next season. To make it through this season, I had to run with the bed up a bit to allow enough air circulation around the engine. If I didn't tilt the bed up a bit, the engine would overheat the cab area above the engine, the washer reservoir, and the rear window, not to mention what all the excess heat must be doing to all the electrical and hydraulic parts around the engine.
 

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