Buying Advice 2032R vs Kubota B3030 & choice of flail

[Novice Brit]

Hi All,

Firstly would like to say a quick thanks to all you posters, this is my first post apart from an introduction but I have read a great deal of good advice already.

I have never owned a tractor and recently no more land than a 1/5 acre but recently bought a badly maintained (land virtually untouched for a decade, apart from large lawn) property in France, currently a wart but will be a diamond. The are 30 acres, mostly woodland, approx 5 of 'grassland' and a 2 acre lake.

I have narrowed my search (thanks in no small part to you guys) to a JD 2032R or Kubota B3030, either initially along with industrial tyres a FEL and flail mower. I am leaning towards the JD which just looks a slightly better built machine but I have a few issues with the JD:

1) The operator area seems a bit tight for a tall guy (6'2" or 1.87m) and a little concerned about comfort - the Kubota is more roomy. Any tall guys out there who have spend several hours at a time in the saddle of the 2032R or 2720 (assuming this the same - believe it is)?

2) Location of hydraulics on right underside and indeed the FEL piping, know this has been mentioned before but I wonder how vulnerable they actually are, I do intend to be working in the woods and will take care but cannot guarantee the odd branch isn't going to clash. The Kubota much better re location of hydraulics.

3) Location of Handbrake (although will be rarely used), very awkward to get at and looks as though it was added as an afterthought.

Am going for a medium duty flail rather than a 'bush hog' as want a reasonable cut on the grass/hay without lining up the cut stuff but also want to deal with scrub (blackberries in the main). Feel the flail will also be better for re-cutting the blackberry new growth, hoping continuous cutting will eventually kill it.

This probably not the place for a query on the Flail itself but are there obvious market leaders (medium duty 1.4m 25-35hp)? Very concerned I might end up with a Chinese built model that won't go the distance.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Roadbuilder6]

JOHN DEERE. I had a 2320 and put 700 hours of building stonewalls, clearing, mowing, moving manure, and renovating a house with it. Built like Tanks. The kubota is a very awkwardly set up tractor in that class. The John Deere is a much better tractor.

 

[Novice Brit]

Thanks for the response roadbuilder6, appreciated. Just to clarify, I have no concerns as to the build quality of the 2032R, it looks very well made, my only concerns are related to operator space/comfort for taller operators (from what you say probably unfounded) and location of hydraulics which may again be unfounded. Even with these concerns I still lean towards it, I like it a lot and suspect that if purchased it will be the only tractor I ever need to buy.

I do wonder if users have had issues/damage to the hydraulics that wouldn't have occurred had they been more protectively located.

 

[Monster5601]

The kubota is a very awkwardly set up tractor in that class. The John Deere is a much better tractor.

That is quit subjective. I run a B3030 for everything from FEL work, road grading, bush Hogging, and back hoeing and could not be happier with the overall performance, operator controls, operator comfort, and trouble-free operation. I'm 6' 4" and I have ample operator station room albeit the backhoe platform is a bit tight but it is a compact utility.

I run my B3030 in the woods often (bush hogging, skidding, clearing) and the only issue I had was a branch came up (that happens a lot) and broke the fuel filter bowl. I have since welded on protection.

The B3030 is no longer in the Kubota line-up in the states, you can find new in France? When you say the JD is better built, can you be specific?

 

[Paystar]

JOHN DEERE. I had a 2320 and put 700 hours of building stonewalls, clearing, mowing, moving manure, and renovating a house with it. Built like Tanks. The kubota is a very awkwardly set up tractor in that class. The John Deere is a much better tractor.

Hahahaha. You better look at ALL the John Deere forums and compare the build quality flaws and the features that don't work as advertised on the 1R, 2000 and 3000 series before you make a statement like that, LOL.

 

[Roadbuilder6]

im not talking about the others. I had a John Deere. This isn't my first one. also I'm not talking about the 1 series I'm talking about the 2000 series. So yes I will make a statement like that because it is true.

 

[Novice Brit]

Cheers Bob,

I mentioned that the JD 'looks slightly better built', nothing really specific just general impression, is heavier too and just seemed a little more 'solid'. Both tractors look good and search has narrowed to the two. Had no issues comfort wise with the Kubota and you have confirmed my impressions.

Yes B3030 still available new here (UK, have yet to check France, expecting to have to ship due to pricing differences) but is being phased out, was hoping for a good 'offer' but pricing very similar for both machines.....

 

[boggen]

Hi All,

Firstly would like to say a quick thanks to all you posters, this is my first post apart from an introduction but I have read a great deal of good advice already.

I have never owned a tractor and recently no more land than a 1/5 acre but recently bought a badly maintained (land virtually untouched for a decade, apart from large lawn) property in France, currently a wart but will be a diamond. The are 30 acres, mostly woodland, approx 5 of 'grassland' and a 2 acre lake.

I have narrowed my search (thanks in no small part to you guys) to a JD 2032R or Kubota B3030, either initially along with industrial tyres a FEL and flail mower. I am leaning towards the JD which just looks a slightly better built machine but I have a few issues with the JD:

1) The operator area seems a bit tight for a tall guy (6'2" or 1.87m) and a little concerned about comfort - the Kubota is more roomy. Any tall guys out there who have spend several hours at a time in the saddle of the 2032R or 2720 (assuming this the same - believe it is)?

2) Location of hydraulics on right underside and indeed the FEL piping, know this has been mentioned before but I wonder how vulnerable they actually are, I do intend to be working in the woods and will take care but cannot guarantee the odd branch isn't going to clash. The Kubota much better re location of hydraulics.

3) Location of Handbrake (although will be rarely used), very awkward to get at and looks as though it was added as an afterthought.

Am going for a medium duty flail rather than a 'bush hog' as want a reasonable cut on the grass/hay without lining up the cut stuff but also want to deal with scrub (blackberries in the main). Feel the flail will also be better for re-cutting the blackberry new growth, hoping continuous cutting will eventually kill it.

This probably not the place for a query on the Flail itself but are there obvious market leaders (medium duty 1.4m 25-35hp)? Very concerned I might end up with a Chinese built model that won't go the distance.

Thanks in advance.

the R4 industrial tires is what has me, with mostly woods. i am cringing about for over all traction, get some R1 / ag tires. then dealing with lake edges... and fail/ rotatory cutting. get you something that gives you traction R1's vs slip n slide R4's.

hydrostatic transmission = need the use of hand break when ever you shut down tractor on a slope. or tractor can and roll down hill, it may not be immediately but over night it could be gone.

fail mowers, its all in the little blades. and regular maintenance (greasing, and like)

 

[Novice Brit]

Cheers Ryan,

Yes, the R4's a compromise traction wise but I was concerned about punctures in the woods, some thorny stuff about. I appreciate I'm going to lose traction but as well as being wary or punctures didn't want to make a mess of what will one day hopefully be a nice lawn. It is currently a bit of a mess though, not just because of weeds but also because of a visit from some very large boar, the ride on mower just can't cope with the 'craters'! Will be fine once the ground has been 'levelled' though. Perhaps I am worrying too much and the R1's tough enough for the woods.

Good point re HST and handbrake usage, I think you are right, I'll probably require the handbrake more than I thought.

re flail mowers, I hadn't asked a question re ease of greasing when viewing a likely flail (a Kilworth supplied Dragone MTL 140, neither the supplier nor flail probably ever heard of in the states), I will ask the question now.

 

[boggen]

r4 = worse at punctures, they are wider, = more area for a puncture to happen. get a higher ply rating, get a tube installed. and it will help some with thorns.

not sure how a person could make a statement of r4's are less puncture proof vs R1's? *shaking his head in confusion*. ply rating harder / thicker rubber that makes up the tires, tubes, add a little bit more rubber thorns and like has to go through.