2084 Hydro Leak

[Dave01]

My 2084 has dripped some hydro oil since I got it but now its much worse, too much to ignore. The source is the seal where the drive shaft enters the front of the hydro, oil is coming through the seal and being slung off the rotating shaft.

How hard is it to replace this seal? Any suggestions?

 

[Carl_NH]

Dave

I have a 1811 with leaking check valve so will be replacing one this weekend (ordered new vs used) but regarding your specific issue - you should be able to R&R the seal from the outside - BUT the splines and shaft need to be clean for the new seal.

I used to work on the CC and farm tractors in an IH dealership a long time ago and one trick was to sleeve the shaft (over which you slip the seal) with saran wrap or thin plastic to prevent damage to the seal.

I have looked at the seal #49 in this print but I will dig into this more on the weekend when mine is under the knife.

Carl

 

[Dave01]

Thanks Carl, thats a huge help! I looked at it with a friend, he thought it would come out from the outside as you say, I was thinking I had to remove the whole collar assembly, glad to hear its the easier route. I'll order the new seal and give it a try, I have a screw-in seal remover that might do the job.

I like the saran wrap tip, even if the splines are clean I hate to push a seal over those sharp edges, that should make it slide easier.

 

[rcbe]

Another "trick" is to warm and soak the seal in CLEAN system oil ( ie., all in a pan over a electric pot warmer) - will make the seal more pliable while the fluid will promote it slippping easily over the shaft...

 

[Carl_NH]

Hi Dave,

Got my relief valve in the mail last night and new hydro filter - just finished R&R the valve and filter - needed to take off the fenders/seat but all is well - no more leaks in my 1811.

Regarding the seal/shaft arrangement mine has the rubber flex coupling / fan which you will need to remove first then the flange is pinned on to the input shaft 1/4" roll pin - I would soak this with WD40 and drive this out - looks like it might take some persuasion..

Once the steel coupling is off clean up the shaft before removing the seal then its a matter of getting the seal out and a new one in. The hydro oil level is below this seal so you should have miminal/no leakage.

good luck on your repair.

 

[Dave01]

Thanks Carl, good to know what I'll see when I get there! I didn't realize I had to drive the pin to get the hydro end of the coupling off, will get that sprayed up first so it won't be too hard to push out. I've got a screw in seal puller that hopefully will make quick work of removing the old seal.

I just picked up the seal yesterday. I noticed that once the tractor sat for a day there was no oil dripping so I figured it might be above the level, and you confirmed it. But, my oil level is already low from the leak, and I don't know for sure that the prior owner changed the oil and filter though they both look fairly clean, or what oil he put in. Anyway, I decided to change the oil and filter while I'm at it, so everything will be clean, full, and ready to go.

Glad to hear the 1811 is fixed. That's a great tractor, we had a 1211 that did a lot of work for us, in the end I would have kept it if it was the 18 HP like yours but it had the 50" deck and struggled to cut if the grass was high. As much as I like my 1864 and 2084 I still think the 1211/1811 design had some real advantages, the top mounted fuel tank with gauge and steel hood to name a few.

 

[Carl_NH]

Dave,

I was wrong about the roll pin - your model has a splined shaft so its a different setup than mine so you should not have a roll pin like I described - hopefully this makes it easier.

Like you I had a 1210 - bought in 1987 used, with a tiller, snowblower for $1200 then when it started using a quart of oil every few hours I traded it for the 1811 in 1989 and got $1200 for the trade and they retrofitted all my attachments to boot - I stopped using the rototiller and snowblower years ago since I got the Kubota B21.