Offr0ad
New member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2011
- Messages
- 3
- Tractor
- Ford/NH 2120
Howdy,
Please pardon the outright ignorance I am about to embark on - I have been drafted to help dad fix his Ford/NH 2120 and haven't been given much to work with so far... he claims to have the owner's manual but it's "somewhere safe." As a result, I have been diligently searching and reading this forum but have yet to hit on a resolution to the problem.
Tractor:
1994 Ford/NH 2120
Low Hours (Forgot to write it down)
12x4 Manual?
(Shift lever to left of wheel 1 2 3 R + Lever to left of seat 1 2 3 4)
Tractor was split in 2008 for some kind of work - possibly cluch
Symptoms:
With clutch depressed, PTO disengages but transmission grinds when attempting to put it in any gear.
In order to work on it, I had to move it out of the stall by placing the range lever in 1 and *gently* shifting to R at the lowest possible RPM - was able to pull it off without grinding. Was also able to shift to forward 1 using the same procedure. (i.e. it moves)
Actions so far:
- Checked tractor fluid via dip stick on top of transmission. Appeared to be low, however, the placement is an interesting engineering decision... It was difficult to get the dip stick out without hitting the center console with the dip stick handle and subsequently dragging the end of the dipstick along the tube? After research here and much Googling, I arrived at the conclusion that this is where the tractor fluid goes in, as well. Four different funnels later, I believe I got 3 gallons of fluid into the hole and about 2 gallons on top of the transmission, foot wells and the ground. I believe the dipstick indicated that there was sufficient fluid in the system, however, still grinding when attempting to get it in gear.
Questions:
Is there a better way to check/fill the tractor fluid?
Would low tractor fluid cause the clutch to refuse to disengage?
- Incrementally adjusted the throw on the clutch by taking out the cotter pin on the linkage, turning the linkage into the yoke, reconnecting, test, repeat. Got to the point where the linkage wouldn't reach the tab and stopped, and still had grinding when attempting to put it in gear.
- Read that the clutch may be frozen to the friction plate, so I attempted to start it while in gear with clutch and brake depressed but there seems to be some kind of interlock which requires the shift lever to be in neutral before the engine will kick over.
- Pulled off the access panel below the steering column and looked for the cable to release hydraulic pressure or dump valve but could not find one - I'm guessing that is only on the 12x12 HSS transmission?
Other Info:
Not much maintenance information is available from dad, so I'm assuming that the tractor has been poorly maintained, if at all. Planning on purchasing the service manual (and maybe the owners manual if he can't find the original) draining the tractor fluid and installing a fresh filter if that would be a easy fix, but if the clutch is bonded to the friction plate or something similar, I don't want to waste the money at this point.
Tractor has been sitting in South Texas for just over a year without being run.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Please pardon the outright ignorance I am about to embark on - I have been drafted to help dad fix his Ford/NH 2120 and haven't been given much to work with so far... he claims to have the owner's manual but it's "somewhere safe." As a result, I have been diligently searching and reading this forum but have yet to hit on a resolution to the problem.
Tractor:
1994 Ford/NH 2120
Low Hours (Forgot to write it down)
12x4 Manual?
(Shift lever to left of wheel 1 2 3 R + Lever to left of seat 1 2 3 4)
Tractor was split in 2008 for some kind of work - possibly cluch
Symptoms:
With clutch depressed, PTO disengages but transmission grinds when attempting to put it in any gear.
In order to work on it, I had to move it out of the stall by placing the range lever in 1 and *gently* shifting to R at the lowest possible RPM - was able to pull it off without grinding. Was also able to shift to forward 1 using the same procedure. (i.e. it moves)
Actions so far:
- Checked tractor fluid via dip stick on top of transmission. Appeared to be low, however, the placement is an interesting engineering decision... It was difficult to get the dip stick out without hitting the center console with the dip stick handle and subsequently dragging the end of the dipstick along the tube? After research here and much Googling, I arrived at the conclusion that this is where the tractor fluid goes in, as well. Four different funnels later, I believe I got 3 gallons of fluid into the hole and about 2 gallons on top of the transmission, foot wells and the ground. I believe the dipstick indicated that there was sufficient fluid in the system, however, still grinding when attempting to get it in gear.
Questions:
Is there a better way to check/fill the tractor fluid?
Would low tractor fluid cause the clutch to refuse to disengage?
- Incrementally adjusted the throw on the clutch by taking out the cotter pin on the linkage, turning the linkage into the yoke, reconnecting, test, repeat. Got to the point where the linkage wouldn't reach the tab and stopped, and still had grinding when attempting to put it in gear.
- Read that the clutch may be frozen to the friction plate, so I attempted to start it while in gear with clutch and brake depressed but there seems to be some kind of interlock which requires the shift lever to be in neutral before the engine will kick over.
- Pulled off the access panel below the steering column and looked for the cable to release hydraulic pressure or dump valve but could not find one - I'm guessing that is only on the 12x12 HSS transmission?
Other Info:
Not much maintenance information is available from dad, so I'm assuming that the tractor has been poorly maintained, if at all. Planning on purchasing the service manual (and maybe the owners manual if he can't find the original) draining the tractor fluid and installing a fresh filter if that would be a easy fix, but if the clutch is bonded to the friction plate or something similar, I don't want to waste the money at this point.
Tractor has been sitting in South Texas for just over a year without being run.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Last edited:
