2210 50 hour service

oldcountryboy · Jul 4, 2003

The original discussion got ate by the server crash.

I went out to see the service mananger at the dealer. We went out and looked at a 2210 and I pointed out the hose that will not come off of the screen filter housing. I posed the question of removing the suction tube from the pump. We went in and looked at the parts layout and the only thing that you need to do is remove the three bolts that hold the suction tube to the pump. There is an O ring behind there , so watch out for it.

I went home and had the tube with hose off in 15 minutes. You will have to drain the transmission to do this. So have a big drain pan. Remove the screen filter housing and the filter will just about fall into your hand. I wiped it down with a clean cloth and clean the magnets that are inside of it. Then gently blow it out with your compressor. That is it.

I am not really sure why JD calls for this to de done. The procedure hardly seemd worth the resulting cleaning. The filter was very clean. Just a couple of little goobers.

The question of the fluid was also discussed. The dealer says to use the low viscosity stuff.

jdeerestl · Jul 4, 2003

Excellent work. I'm wondering if I should do it now or wait until 200 hrs. I guess all it would cost me now is the fluid. Sounds like a good rainy day project. Thanks for the info.

Chief · Jul 4, 2003

Best to do it now. If the suction screen has an abnormally large amount of debry obstructing it; this can restrict flow to the hydraulic pump and cause cavitiation. (not a good thing) This will also keep your warranty conditions happy if a related failure occurs.

Hambone · Jul 5, 2003

I agree with the Chief. I plan on doing mine shortly. Have 36 hours now, after 4 weeks /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Chief · Jul 5, 2003

I am not sure if you have seen the suction screen but it is a two layer screen with a course mesh inside and a VERY fine woven stainless steel fabric mesh on the outside. Much finer mesh than I expected to see when I did my 50 hr. service. In addition to small metal shavings, I found small non-metalic debry as well. Not that much but enough could restrict the flow of such a fine mesh suction screen. Best to take it out and have a looksee. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

cadblaster · May 3, 2004

I just did my 50.4 hour service this past weekend on the tranny. I also did another oil/filter change on the engine (first at 25 hours)

I tried to remove the hose from the suction screen without removing the suction tube at first. What a pain, I couldn't do it. I vaguely remembered reading this post so I traced down the tube and removed the three bolts. That certainly made it easier. I think the next time I do it I will also remove the left rear tire. I found only a few particles on the screen. The fluid looked really clean. I've been pushing my 2210 pretty hard, so it's not like the opportunity hasn't been there to make more. Trust me, I'm very happy with that situation.

About the tranny fluid. The stuff I took out was pink, the stuff that I put back it was yellow (Low viscosity Hy-Gard).
The book recomends the Low-Vis stuff, but states that the standard Hy-Gard can be used. This brings up a couple of questions:

1. Is the standard Hy-Gard pink?
2. What did you use for your change?
3. If you had your 50 hour service done by the dealer, what did they use?
4. The operating temp range on the low vis stuff isn't as good as the standard Hy-Gard, why use it?

And Lastly,

5. I put a little too much in when I topped it off after running, anyone know an easy way to get it out? e.g. suction it out the fill tube?

Hambone · May 3, 2004

Is the standard Hy-Gard pink?

That is dye they put in at the factory, new stuff not pink.

 The book recomends the Low-Vis stuff 

I used low-vis.

 why use it? 

See above.

cadblaster · May 3, 2004

So I take it that neither the regular Hy-gard, nor the Low Vis Hy-Gard is pink. I guess that's how they can tell if it's ever (or never) been changed.

I realize that the book recomends the lo-vis fluid and that's what I used. The manual also states the regular hy-gard can be used. The high end of the operating temperature range on the lo-vis is only something like 86 degrees F. Which seems pretty low to me. The regular Hy-gard is about 122 deg. F if I remember correctly.

Before changing the fluid, I ran the tractor up and down the driveway a bunch of times, in low and high gear just to warm it up. I was surprised, it hardly got warm at all. So it seems it has a really good cooling system.

mhalla · May 3, 2004

I performed my own 50 hour service.

Yes it was a pain getting the suction hose off in order to remove the screen. Although the user manual says to remove or maybe it said loosen just one of the two hose clamps, I found it necessary to loosen both clamps and slide them toward the middle of the hose.

My tractor sees much more use in summer than the winter - particulary for mowing hour after hour when the temperature is in the 90's. Looking at the higher temperature range for the standard hy-gard versus the low-vis I refilled my tractor with standard hy-gard. Been wrestling ever since whether I made the right decision but I am not about to switch back and forth from standard to low-vis once each year to have the best hydraulic fluid for each season.

I figure that in winter with standard hy-gard all I need to do is make sure the tractor has warmed up enough before using it when it is real cold outside.

Mike

fgross335_2210 · May 3, 2004

I bit the bullet and used amosil synthetic tractor hydraulic fluid in my 2210 when I did the 50 hour service. Most of my use is in summer heat but I also move snow in the winter so I wanted one fluid that would do it all and minimize wear on cold starts. This fluid is recommended for JD specs for Quatrol®, J20C, J20D, and J14C.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/ath.html

So far, so good..................