Ray2210
Silver Member
Well I have 4 rubber housing 36 watt Rops lights installed on my 2210. Two face forward and two rear. I made up a simple little bar from angle that mounts through the existing holes in the ROPS with a couple of tabs and hangs out about an inch and a half of the back of the ROPS. This has allowed me to Keep the tops of the lights low enough to clear a 7 ft door, Keep the lights inside the width of the rops and make them very easy to remove if necessary. I didn't use a factory rear work light I had at this time as I discovered the beam pattern is only intended for vertical mount and I don't want it hanging off the inside of the ROPS to hit every time I turn around.
I am at the wiring stage and have the front, side covers and dash off. I plan on using a factory gator switch on the dash and adding a power wire and relay. So far the only place that I can see that I can tap into power without cutting wire is at the battery and at the starter positive terminal. Has anybody found a point to tap into further back on the tractor? Secondly I intend to have the power(relay) triggered by ignition on and the dash switch. Has anybody found a conveient place to tap in under dash or close to it for ig on pwer without cutting or is a splice or Scotchlok the only choice. Using the factory rear power tap for work lights isn't an option as It's only fused for 10A and 4 36 W bulbs will draw all or more of that. I measured the current at 2.5A per bulb conservatively with a meter which confirms the math I did (3A). Also with a 20A alternator, which will likely not be a full 20 when hot, will be overtaxed running all of the factory lighting and loads as well as 10 plus amps of auxiliuary lighting. I know lots have done it but I don't consider it an option.
If anybody has any good info I'd appreciate hearing it before I dig into it all and figure it out myself. I'd rather learn from others experience when I can before going out and getting my own /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I am at the wiring stage and have the front, side covers and dash off. I plan on using a factory gator switch on the dash and adding a power wire and relay. So far the only place that I can see that I can tap into power without cutting wire is at the battery and at the starter positive terminal. Has anybody found a point to tap into further back on the tractor? Secondly I intend to have the power(relay) triggered by ignition on and the dash switch. Has anybody found a conveient place to tap in under dash or close to it for ig on pwer without cutting or is a splice or Scotchlok the only choice. Using the factory rear power tap for work lights isn't an option as It's only fused for 10A and 4 36 W bulbs will draw all or more of that. I measured the current at 2.5A per bulb conservatively with a meter which confirms the math I did (3A). Also with a 20A alternator, which will likely not be a full 20 when hot, will be overtaxed running all of the factory lighting and loads as well as 10 plus amps of auxiliuary lighting. I know lots have done it but I don't consider it an option.
If anybody has any good info I'd appreciate hearing it before I dig into it all and figure it out myself. I'd rather learn from others experience when I can before going out and getting my own /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif