224 more elec problems...

[TSMART]

OK, same gages problem, cant find a good ground, but I have isolated the problem. It is in the harness connector itself. In the picture, right hand holding connector that goes to all wires in the fuse box. Left hand goes up to gages.

When I move this connector, gages come and go so I know the problems there. So I tweaked, I cleaned, I did everything you can do with that connector, but it is not right. Squeeze it or move it, (after its reconnected) gages come back. So its that harness connector itself.

Now, theres 6 pair or wire that go through that connector.

Can I go to the auto parts store and find a connector that will get the job done?

Its not like I have done this kind of thing before...but if I carefully diagram what wire goes where, I should be OK....I think....

 

[TSMART]

sorry, heres the pic. Doesnt look that bad but it is.

 

[greg_g]

Actually, it does look bad. No wonder you've got intermittent connections. Do you power wash that tractor? Cuz something sure as **** has got a pretty good crop of rust growing there. It's still possible to clean that, but you've got to isolate the reason why all that rust is propagating in what should be a reasonably protected area.

Cleaning will be time consuming, probably take as much time as rewiring a new set. Which ever way you go though, try to take some extra precautions against rust. Once clean (or new), coat both male and female parts with silicone dielectric grease. Reconnect the two halves, then apply more grease to where the wires go into the connector bodies. The whole idea is to keep moisture out, and thereby stave off the rust that's been opening your circuits.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Your connector shouldn't be rusty. I'd suggest you replace it with a quality American-made connector that uses copper or brass terminals that will not rust. They will still corrode if you don't take the precautions Greg outlined, but they'll take a lot longer to do it. And they can be cleaned if they do oxidize and be just fine again, while cheesy plated steel connectors, once rusted, will never be worth a **** after that, no matter what you do. (The absolute best connectors are high-end marine connectors with gold-plated copper contacts, but they charge a gigantic premium for that micron of gold.)

Replacing the connector isn't rocket science, just a bit tedious. Determine which wire connects to which other wire and write it down. Verify it twice and then have a friend check you before you cut any wires. The Chinese are notorious for using one color of wire on one side of a connector and completely different color on the other, unlike standard practice on American vehicles. Once you have it all mapped out, cut the connectors off and put the new ones on. If you can. I highly recommend soldering the terminals to the wires rather than just crimping them. Crimped joints are usually okay, but they can corrode and develop high resistance and cause problems with overheating the wires. Soldering avoids that. You should still use the dielectric grease when you push the connectors together, of course.

 

[TSMART]

Well I must admit I do power wash the engine, and I try to blow dry it. I can't see whats attatched to what if it was an entire greaseball...thats why...guess I will have to be more cautious on that point.

Whats the proper name of this connector so I know what to ask for? Or will anything with 6 pair of contacts work. All I can do is print that pic and take it with me to the store...??

Pretty sure this wont be hanging on a rack for me to find.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Actually, if you go to a large automotive/truck parts house they should have something workable hanging on the rack. Yes, any 6-pair connector rated for more than 20 amps per contact will do just fine. Make sure it has latching tabs on it so it doesn't just pop open spontaneously. I'd suggest trying to get one that has a weather housing if you're going to keep pressure washing the thing, but if you can't find one with a cover you can just slip a piece of bicycle inner tube over the thing and tape it on the ends to keep the water out.

 

[TSMART]

thanks, I will git-r-done today.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would label each wire on both side of the connector than cut it out and replace it or just solder and heat shrink all the wires.

Chris

 

[erj]

I have a labelled drawing of this connector on my Jinma 284 that may help. But since PhotoBucket went away, I no longer know how to post pictures here.
Or, Tsmart, send me a PM with your Email address and I will send it.
RonJ

 

[TSMART]

Went to NAPA today. They did not have a connector for 12 wires, but they did have 2 6pair connectors. Pic attached. I also bought some dielectric grease. I'll carefully diagram wire locations, crimp first, then solder the crimps, and have a go at it. Wish me luck.

Connectors not cheap..two connectors, 24 pins, one tube grease = $51.