2240 is dead as a doornail

jd110 · Jan 25, 2015

Sounds like you have a couple of problems. As TxJim mentioned, there should be no voltage to starter "S" terminal with key in run position. So apparently you have a bad key switch, wires connected incorrectly on key switch, or damaged(shorted) wiring harness between key switch and starter. Do you know if you have a new or old style 2240? Older ones (pre 1980) had a simpler wiring system. Serial number break was 350,000. Second problem is a bad starter. If you have 10 volts to copper strap at bottom of solenoid, starter should be spinning or at least attempting to spin. The later 2240(after350,000) had starter relay from the factory. The relay could be stuck which would cause voltage to "S" terminal with key in run position. That could be what caused the starter to fail.

Chickengrower · Jan 25, 2015

jd110 said:
Sounds like you have a couple of problems. As TxJim mentioned, there should be no voltage to starter "S" terminal with key in run position. So apparently you have a bad key switch, wires connected incorrectly on key switch, or damaged(shorted) wiring harness between key switch and starter. Do you know if you have a new or old style 2240? Older ones (pre 1980) had a simpler wiring system. Serial number break was 350,000. Second problem is a bad starter. If you have 10 volts to copper strap at bottom of solenoid, starter should be spinning or at least attempting to spin. The later 2240(after350,000) had starter relay from the factory. The relay could be stuck which would cause voltage to "S" terminal with key in run position. That could be what caused the starter to fail.

I have the older, pre 1980 model. Yesterday I removed the ign switch and cleaned the terminals. Replaced the wires exactly like they came off, and now I have zero volts on the "S" terminal with the key in the RUN position just like it should be and solenoid is not getting warm anymore. So, like has been advised here, it must have a short somewhere. Bad news is the brand new solenoid has a burned smell and looks a little rough inside (from being 200 degrees the other day) so it may need replacing too. I am definitely going to replace the ign switch and see if i can get the starter off. Not looking forward to messing with that starter.

I may just call the dealer and say, Here it is boys call me when its done!

It seems like having a spare tractor is both a blessing and a curse. You always have at least one that works but you often have one that needs worked on.

Chickengrower · Feb 3, 2015

UPDATE: Well, I replaced the ign switch and circuit breaker and got a little grunt out of the starter. Decided to tackle removing the starter and once I got the right tools for the job, it was pretty much a piece of cake. Only had to remove the dipstick tube and the fuel filter filler pump to get it out. Poured about 1/2 cup of water out of the starter once it was out. Not sure where all the water got in at unless it was where the solenoid/starter meet. There is supposed to be a gasket there but wasn't. I asked the JD parts man and he said he had never sold a gasket for that application and didn't even know one was supposed to go there until he looked it up. I didn't order one right away, mine stays in a barn 99% of the time.
Anyway, I took the starter to a rebuild shop about 30 mins away where they said the brushes were stuck and the internal ground strap was no good. (Thats the way I understood it anyway) It was loaded with rust/crud. He got it repaired and cleaned up in about 45 mins while I went to get a bite of lunch. He mentioned that the starter was undersized for the tractor and that he has sold a replacement starter in the past that really cranks it over, said it was a gear reduction starter. Charged me $50. I left the shop, got some JD paint, painted it that evening and then put it on the next day. She fired right up faster than ever. Thanks for all the help guys!