2320 block heater - needed?

purpony · Dec 12, 2006

I am purchasing a new 2320 in the next several days. I was wondering if a block heater is needed for extremely cold weather. I live in CT and plan on using this for moving snow and it can get very cold out. All of my older tractors and trucks have always had to be plugged in for extreme cold starting... i am figuring the 2320 will be the same and mine as well have the dealer install a heater before i pick it up.....

dirtworksequip · Dec 12, 2006

The block heater will be a lot of help in cold weather starts. Maybe not necessary, but a big help. Why strain your battery and starter? With the block heater it will start up very easy. I bought one for my 3520,but was unable to get the threaded plug out of the engine block. I just need to take the time to figure out what to use to get the plug out.

al3 · Dec 12, 2006

I'd highly recommend both a block and a tranny heater. Routinely see air temps in the -30 range here. If snow is anticipated, set up two high amp timers to run for 2 hours prior to start time. Both are relatively cheap, will save wear and tear on equipment. Good luck.

Rob-D · Dec 12, 2006

I live in the Catskills and I've seen some wicked cold here, over 30 below but most of the time it doesn't run much below zero. I went out last week and started my tractor when it was in the teens with no trouble. My dealer says he has these guys sitting on the lot and he goes out after it's been cold out and they start right up. My 2320 does every time. As soon as the glow plug light goes out it kicks right over and I mean right over, every single time.

In all my vehicles I run synthetic oil in the tranny and the engine. I don't run block heaters because a car can sit in a parking lot for several hours while I'm working or shopping and I still have the cold engine to come out to where there is no place to run a block heater.

Put a quart of synthetic in you below zero freezer next to a can of regular oil and see what happens after six or eight hours.

My tractor has less than 50 hours on it but when I do the first change it will run Amsoil HDD 5W-30 synthetic and Amsoil synthetic in the box too. I suggest you run synthetic too.

First off, your engine will be braking in most if not all winter, so you're not going to accelerate the wear. It's supposed to be wearing in, that's what engines do the first few hours.

johndeere_2210 · Dec 12, 2006

What's a $100 bucks after spending $13-16K? Have it in my 2210 and you need the same set up.

purpony · Dec 12, 2006

i plan on running amsoil after the first change since i am a dealer. I run amsoil in everything i own.

Rob-D · Dec 12, 2006

Good stuff!

rmonio · Dec 12, 2006

Get a Block Heater AND a Hydraulic Heater for your 2320. You'll not regret it. I have them on my 4600 and we get some pretty cold winters here in MN... the cost to plug the them in is nominal and it really saves on the wear/tear to the tractor. It's a cheap investment when you look at the overall cost of the equipment.

-Bob

Rob-D · Dec 13, 2006

OK, I’m not being argumentative here but let’s look at what a block heater does.

What happens to dino oil when it is subjected to sub-zero temperatures? And by the way, Conn., especially the coast, rarely sees prolonged sub-zero temps.

The oil viscosity changes, empirically it slows down, it simply doesn’t flow as readily. And what does a block heater do? It raises the temperature so that the oil acts similarly to a hotter environment. That’s all it does. Period.

What is the temperature reaction difference between dino oil and synthetic oil? Synthetic oil stays fluid. Amsoil and I’m not a dealer, stays fluid down to - 60 F.

Wear? Dino oils can’t come close to synthetic oils for wear. So even if your dino oil engine starts more easily it still contends with greater engine wear. And when does an engine wear most? In the first few seconds after starting. Does a block heater equal synthetic oil in starting wear? Not even close.

What good is a block heater when you blow a tire on the back forty and you have to leave your tractor out for two days while you get it repaired? None.

So if you want to indulge yourselves and buy block heaters, have a ball.
I’ll run synthetic oils in my engine and box, have a longer lasting engine and tranny, better fuel efficiency, less oil changes and save on electricity too.

Don't believe me. Take a look at the list of cars that come standard out of the factory with synthetic. Aston Martin, Porsche, Corvette, MB, etc.

How many of you have been inside a Porsche engine with mileage on it? I have. All I use is synthetic.

ducati996 · Dec 14, 2006

i Could be off base here but dosent the block heater warm up the antifreeze so the engine warms up faster? so why would the freeze out plugs need to be popped off, and replaced with the heater coil if its heating oil? I know my diesel truck works this way - I understand the hydrolic fluid in the tranny gets warmed up directly, but the block heater I always thought was the antifreeze for the most part (on tractors). I know the magnetic warmers warm the oil pan

rmonio · Dec 14, 2006

Interesting feedback, Rob - but in my case I'll stick with the heaters and the approach my JD Dealer advocates.

"You do your thing... I'll do mine." -- MG

-Bob

johndeere_2210 · Dec 15, 2006

ducati996 said:
i Could be off base here but dosent the block heater warm up the antifreeze so the engine warms up faster? so why would the freeze out plugs need to be popped off, and replaced with the heater coil if its heating oil? I know my diesel truck works this way - I understand the hydrolic fluid in the tranny gets warmed up directly, but the block heater I always thought was the antifreeze for the most part (on tractors). I know the magnetic warmers warm the oil pan

The last freeze out plug on the 2210....2320 comes out on the right hand side and two pieces are required (one is the brass heating element and other, adaptor plate to bolt into the two threaded inlets on each side of the once removed freeze out plug). Once in, it does what you mention, heat the antifreeze/water and warms the block.

ducati996 · Dec 15, 2006

Thanks John Deere 2210 !!

I see the benefits of having both (block heater, hydrolic fluid heater) and having it complemented with the correct oil for the temperature range.

I can also see unheated barns & garages requiring these providing they have electricity. These heater units are inexpensive as well, so I see no negative at all by having them..

Duc

p.s I have a setup on my truck that can heat the block and charge/float the (2) 800 cca batteries - came in handy once already this season, cant see why the same setup wouldnt be applicable for tractors and very beneficial.

TimS · Dec 16, 2006

I don't think there is any downside to getting a block heater (other than the $$) but you absolutely don't need one in Connecticut. I live in Central Massachusetts, which is a bit colder, and I don't have any problems at all starting at 20 below - tractor sits in an unheated shed. When I say no problems I mean that after you do the glow plug thing it starts instantly at the turn of the key - well under 1 second cranking time.

I do switch to a 5W40 synthetic oil in the winter, which cuts down on the black smoke at startup.

If you were in Minnesota, different story, but in Connecticut, no need for it.

Tim

rmonio · Dec 18, 2006

Hey! Minnesota isn't that bad...! (it's still averaging 30 degrees here...)

WE NEED SNOW AND COLD!

-Bob

RalphVa · Dec 19, 2006

You're getting some pretty good information here. Block heaters work by heating the cooling water in the block. Have seen posters from CT say they use them; others in CT don't. In VT, it was very useful for starting our old Benz parked outside there. Had a heater hose heater on it bought from JC Whitney.

My tractor starts instantly in winter here in VA. Hope they put a glow plug indicator light on the 2320s. Otherwise, you leave it in "L" or "H", turn key all the way to start, count to about 4, run lever to "N" to start.

I'm wondering why TimS switches to synthetic 5w40 oil for the winter. Why not use it year round? That "5w" at start up will still be heavier than the "40" at operating temperature but a whole lot lighter than a "15w". I worked in the lube oil industry for 31 years and am thoroughly familiar with oil viscometrics. Therefore, I use 5w40 in my current old Benz year round. In my tractor, I use 5w30 year round. Change it once/year.

Probably more important in CT would be to use a transmission/hydraulic oil heater. You can get magnetic ones, which would be better than the ones really cooking the oil internally. However, the transmission housing on modern tractors may be all aluminum and may not work. Would could probably keep them attached with some tension cords and towels. Remove when warmed up if you have to keep attached with cords and towels though. Lots of these magnetic types for sale on the internet. One poster on another one of the boards had his transmission overflow when his hydraulic oil filter blocked up on him in the cold. We even use the "low vis" hydraulic oil JD sells here in warm VA. Could just use a little electric heater sitting underneath the transmission, like I have beside my chair here.

Ralph

TimS · Dec 19, 2006

Ralph, not to hijack this thread, but I guess I could probably use the 5W40 year round. I have stayed with the 15W40 in the summer just because the chart in my owner's manual only shows 15W40 and 10W30, the latter only recommended up to about 85 degrees. Even though I don't put a ton of hours on, I do like to change the oil twice a year (cheap insurance) so I've stayed with the dino 15W40 RotellaT in the summer because it's cheaper.

Tim