2320 block heater - needed?

rmonio · Dec 14, 2006

Interesting feedback, Rob - but in my case I'll stick with the heaters and the approach my JD Dealer advocates.

"You do your thing... I'll do mine." -- MG

-Bob

johndeere_2210 · Dec 15, 2006

ducati996 said:
i Could be off base here but dosent the block heater warm up the antifreeze so the engine warms up faster? so why would the freeze out plugs need to be popped off, and replaced with the heater coil if its heating oil? I know my diesel truck works this way - I understand the hydrolic fluid in the tranny gets warmed up directly, but the block heater I always thought was the antifreeze for the most part (on tractors). I know the magnetic warmers warm the oil pan

The last freeze out plug on the 2210....2320 comes out on the right hand side and two pieces are required (one is the brass heating element and other, adaptor plate to bolt into the two threaded inlets on each side of the once removed freeze out plug). Once in, it does what you mention, heat the antifreeze/water and warms the block.

ducati996 · Dec 15, 2006

Thanks John Deere 2210 !!

I see the benefits of having both (block heater, hydrolic fluid heater) and having it complemented with the correct oil for the temperature range.

I can also see unheated barns & garages requiring these providing they have electricity. These heater units are inexpensive as well, so I see no negative at all by having them..

Duc

p.s I have a setup on my truck that can heat the block and charge/float the (2) 800 cca batteries - came in handy once already this season, cant see why the same setup wouldnt be applicable for tractors and very beneficial.

TimS · Dec 16, 2006

I don't think there is any downside to getting a block heater (other than the $$) but you absolutely don't need one in Connecticut. I live in Central Massachusetts, which is a bit colder, and I don't have any problems at all starting at 20 below - tractor sits in an unheated shed. When I say no problems I mean that after you do the glow plug thing it starts instantly at the turn of the key - well under 1 second cranking time.

I do switch to a 5W40 synthetic oil in the winter, which cuts down on the black smoke at startup.

If you were in Minnesota, different story, but in Connecticut, no need for it.

Tim

rmonio · Dec 18, 2006

Hey! Minnesota isn't that bad...! (it's still averaging 30 degrees here...)

WE NEED SNOW AND COLD!

-Bob

RalphVa · Dec 19, 2006

You're getting some pretty good information here. Block heaters work by heating the cooling water in the block. Have seen posters from CT say they use them; others in CT don't. In VT, it was very useful for starting our old Benz parked outside there. Had a heater hose heater on it bought from JC Whitney.

My tractor starts instantly in winter here in VA. Hope they put a glow plug indicator light on the 2320s. Otherwise, you leave it in "L" or "H", turn key all the way to start, count to about 4, run lever to "N" to start.

I'm wondering why TimS switches to synthetic 5w40 oil for the winter. Why not use it year round? That "5w" at start up will still be heavier than the "40" at operating temperature but a whole lot lighter than a "15w". I worked in the lube oil industry for 31 years and am thoroughly familiar with oil viscometrics. Therefore, I use 5w40 in my current old Benz year round. In my tractor, I use 5w30 year round. Change it once/year.

Probably more important in CT would be to use a transmission/hydraulic oil heater. You can get magnetic ones, which would be better than the ones really cooking the oil internally. However, the transmission housing on modern tractors may be all aluminum and may not work. Would could probably keep them attached with some tension cords and towels. Remove when warmed up if you have to keep attached with cords and towels though. Lots of these magnetic types for sale on the internet. One poster on another one of the boards had his transmission overflow when his hydraulic oil filter blocked up on him in the cold. We even use the "low vis" hydraulic oil JD sells here in warm VA. Could just use a little electric heater sitting underneath the transmission, like I have beside my chair here.

Ralph

TimS · Dec 19, 2006

Ralph, not to hijack this thread, but I guess I could probably use the 5W40 year round. I have stayed with the 15W40 in the summer just because the chart in my owner's manual only shows 15W40 and 10W30, the latter only recommended up to about 85 degrees. Even though I don't put a ton of hours on, I do like to change the oil twice a year (cheap insurance) so I've stayed with the dino 15W40 RotellaT in the summer because it's cheaper.

Tim