2320 cab and plow

   / 2320 cab and plow #1  

bxowner

Gold Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2006
Messages
361
Location
Vermont
Tractor
John Deere 5055e
Well, it's all finally together. I'll condense the story here: I've been debating for a year now about how best to plow a 300 yard road. Don't have a huge budget, so last winter I just used the loader. Quickly found the R4 tires to slide everywhere, so a set of chains were added (to the tune of $450). Then half-way through winter, I bought a 72" rear blade. I was surprised how expensive it was (about $800) for the Frontier blade. Did an OK job, but would tend to 'pull' the rear-end of the tractor into the snowbanks. So, I spent a lot of time trying to figure out whether to go with a loader-mount blade or the frame mount.

As many have posted, the 54" factory blade is very small. So I bought the quick-hitch and had a local company fabricate a bracket for an 84" light-duty Fischer-style blade. I figure if it overpowers the tractor, I can always cut it narrower - but having the extra height compared to the factory blade should save me from repeating each pass. I can always do a snowblower in the future, if the budget allows - and assuming I can't keep up with big snows. As it is, an 18"-24" storm only comes along about twice a season, at least in one dumping, so I ought to be able to stay ahead.

Well, the final straw came last week with the posting of the Original Tractor brand cab. It was on sale for $650 (regularly $750) on ebay, so I took the plunge. Very happy with it, at least for today (which was 60 degrees). It's definitely louder inside the cab, so ear protection is a must. It's also slightly flimsy, so care will have to be in order, especially when the temps really drop. I expect the lexan will break below 0 degrees. A far cry in cost from the soft-side or hard-side Deere cabs, but you definitely get what you pay for - those Deere cabs are really nice. Not sure how well it's going to hold up after a couple of seasons - not to mention the care needed to remove/reinstall annually. Total time to install was about 4 hours by myself - could have gone quicker if I wasn't so distracted by election day results and paid more attention to reading the instructions, instead of assuming I knew what they meant.
 

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   / 2320 cab and plow #2  
Nice setup. I am sure you will be happier about the cab when the snow is blowing and it is 10 below or more. Something is definately better than nothing. The blade loks great also. What do you have in the cost of the blade? I am still contemplating on how to adapt my truck plow to the front of my tractor(frame mount).
 
   / 2320 cab and plow #3  
Looks good bx, bring on the snow? I am curious to hear your comments about the cab after a winter goes by. I wonder about the glass fogging up. A cab would be nice, but I have snow blowing down to a science now. I know which way to blow the snow and in which direction of travel to do it, to avoid a face full. Enjoy.
 
   / 2320 cab and plow #4  
Looks good!

Please show some pictures of it full lowered and full raised-and some close ups of the fab work they did. What do you have for rear ballast?
 
   / 2320 cab and plow
  • Thread Starter
#5  
JDeerekid - I'm into the blade for $650 total, including fab costs + blade. The quick-hitch was $950ish. Factory blade was $500, so for an extra $150, I think I've done well.

kennyd - The attached photo's all I've got for close-up now. I can take more this weekend (it's dark before/after work, of course)... I posted last week a question about rear ballast and the concensus was that my loaded rear tires would be sufficient. We'll see. I did drive the tractor a mile and a half from the fab shop with no problems bouncing. Not sure how that will translate into being tossed about by a foot of snow. Raising height isn't great - but I did want the blade as close as possible to the front tires when fully angled and raised. Also, the blade itself only weighs about 100 lbs or so - I'm hoping it won't be too much.
 

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   / 2320 cab and plow
  • Thread Starter
#6  
While this width (84") certainly addresses my concerns with the factory blade not being wide enough to cover my tracks when angled, I'll be anxious to see how it does in a foot of heavy snow. Again, if it over-powers the tractor, I can always cut it down to 72" or less.
 

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   / 2320 cab and plow #7  
Two thoughts:

1> 84" is to big, you may end up bending the hitch-remember it's only designed for a 54" blade!

2> Get something on the 3PH to get some weight off the front axle.
 
   / 2320 cab and plow
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I had that concern about width not only overpowering the tractor, but the hitch as well. The fab shop in town isn't a small operation - they manufacture all kinds of tractor-related products and could have made me a quick hitch... they're really confident that I won't have troubles and felt the Deere hitch is up to the task (with one caveat: take my time). As for ballast, I tend to agree and will probably pick up a ballast box before the snow flies.
 
   / 2320 cab and plow #9  
nice set up, good luck, I lost a longer reply complimenting your efforts, suggesting maybe a 3pt blower now that you have the cab.
JB.
 
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   / 2320 cab and plow #10  
bxowner - Since you've gone whole hog (ie. wide plow, chains, enclosure) on snow plowing you might be interested in getting the best cutting edge for your plow. Polyeurethane
It's that yellow plastic edge that you see on municipal plows and will both cut ice and clean snow. Yet they say that you could plow your lawn without damaging the grass.
Don't believe me? Go here http://www.plowsite.com/ It's a forum for commercial snow plowers.
but it's expensive like $300 for ten feet.
 

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