2425 Split in two, new clutch discs on the way.

[Ed_B]

Well I got he 2425 split in two. Finally got the ATV jack(see my 8-13-06 post) I was waiting for. The ATV jack worked great. I used it under the back end to roll the tractor back. I propped up the front with a floor jack and then set it on a couple of jack stands after the split.

The problem wih the clutch was the rivets sheared on the splined hub in the middle of the main drive disc. I ordered both the main drive and the PTO discs from Jinma Parts (sorry Tommy shipping was faster from Stevens Point WI) the discs should be here tonight. The pressure plates and everything else looked fine.

Three things.

I don't have any kind of clutch disc line up shaft to line up the clutch/discs pressure plates when I bolt them to the flywheel. Any ideas how I can eyeball them?

Clutch adjustment. I've read the manual and looked at Spiker's post on John's site. Can anyone help with how I do the adjustment with the two new discs? The manual is well. . . you guys know. Spiker's post was for an installed, worn clutch.

One other question off subject: Radiator cap. Anyone got a U.S. part number?

I thought I'd share this with you guys who do a lot of repairs:

I talked to a local guy who does tractor repair. He showed me what he uses to support the back half when breaking a tractor in two. Basically it's a couple of screw jacks with a wide plate welded on the bottom of it with heavy duty steel casters attached to the wide plate. There's is a plate welded to the top of the jack with a pipe secured to the plate. He uses different plates that he U-bolts to the pipes depending on the tractor make/model of the tractor. The plates then bolt to the tractor's bell housing, etc. on the tractor. There is one jack/pipe/ plate combo for each side of the tractor.

He can make fine up and down adjustments with the screw jacks when lining up the back to the front of the tractor. The casters make the back half easy to roll. I wish I'd brought my camera with. I thought it was ingenious.

 

[Soundguy]

This may or may not help you. On old fords, we remove the tranny input shaft, and use it as an align tool. Works out good, as we always change the input shaft seal (3$) when we do a clutch.. whether it is leaking or not.. just good insurance..

Soundguy

 

[SPIKER]

soundguy beat me to the input shaft as a alignment tool. but you may not have to remove it from the trans if possable. ( I bought estra input shaft & 2 clutches with mine, so will probably re-do my clutch with a newone somefay after I start using it moe as a tractor & less as a bulldozer.

the clutch can be all alighed on the bench according to the manual I ahve, it is fully assembled on the bench and feeler gauges are used. Ihave my manuals with me and will take a good look at them to make sure what they say as they are an older copies. maybe different than you'rs.?

I can send a scanned copie of it if you need..

the procedure on JohnS's site I did was to change the free play on the main to pto clutch travel, as my pto would engauge high up.

the operations book of ine has the clutch adjustment info on page 21. not sure if your's is same?

let me know

mark M

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

There is a "fixture" I'm told at one time that assists in setting up the clutch on the bench. I'm told it was/is a big plate to center the disc's to the pilot bearing and then a flenage that you measure to the throw-out bearing. Best description I can give as I've never seen it but understand the concept somewhat.
However, I'm sure you can do this adjustment on the bench or on the tractor. Your choice I guess. But, if it were me, I would pull the flywheel off and use that as my fixture. Bolt the pressure plate, center plate, and discs on flywheel doing a "eyeball" line-up. Then you can verify if the levers are correctly adjusted.

I'm going to include a few pics to show the concept. Please don't use the spec's listed as I'm not sure if they are the same as your model. This is just an example as if it were bolted to the flywheel, special fixture or engine.
I hope this helps.

Maybe others can add to this.

Regards, Harry

 

[lakespirit]

I did this on my KAMA TS254...after assembling clutch, I pulled the halves together and then disengaged the PTO. While pulling the tractor together I slowly turned the PTO until it caught the secondary clutch disc spline, then it was about a two minute job to align the main disc from the inspection hole. Got this advice from Chip, as I recall and it was about a three hour exercise in futility AVOIDED.

Everything works great now.

 

[greg_g]

One other question off subject: Radiator cap. Anyone got a U.S. part number?

The OE cap probably has a 0.3 stamped on it. This is the metric equivalent of a 4.3 psi cap. Not sure if that rating is even available in an American aftermarket cap, but the correct diameter cap is readily available in most auto parts store chains. I just took my OE cap into an AutoZone and found a matching size in 7 psi. Think there was a 9 psi hanging right alongside, but I went with the closest to OE pressure rating.

Avoid the higher pressure caps, they're for automotive systems designed for much higher operating temperatures than your 80C diesel. Doing so will likely cause coolant weep around the seams/gaskets/clamps.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

I've seen quite a few antique systems that use a 4psi rating. ( of course that doesn't help you with a cap though.. unless we could find a good xref...
)

Soundguy

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Here is a link to your question about the Radiator Cap.

Chinese Tractor Owners Association - CTOA Forums - Help Me find A Part - Jinma 254 Radiator Cap


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[RonMar]

My 05 284 came with a 15 PSI cap.