245 loader hydraulic valve on 2355 tractor

   / 245 loader hydraulic valve on 2355 tractor #1  
Joined
Sep 24, 2009
Messages
31
Location
Fairfield, Maine
Tractor
John Deere 2350 MFWD, John Deere 2355 MFWD, John Deere 420C with Braden winch
Hello again
With all the great input I have gotten from here my tractor is back together and running very well.
Now I have a question regarding the hydraulic valve.
Originally the 2 spool valve was mounted on the loader frame returning back to the rear of the tractor and was operated by cables.
I built a mast mount, a duplication of the setup on my 2350 so that when the loader is removed the valve is removed too.
This way I can more easily use the right side of the tractor to mount and dismount. All works fine. I built the bell cranks so the controls are still a single stick.
What I had not considered was the return springs in the valve are too strong for a shorter joystick. Of course the springs were made to have the drag of return 5 feet of cable plus the original joystick was much longer so there was more mechanical advantage to move the spools. If I kept these springs, especially in the bucket control spool I would have very tired hands after moving winter snow. So I have opted to change the springs to a softer one because now there is much less drag and less mechanical advantage.
Enough with the why, now the question: I can't figure out how the lift spool detent gets re-assembled. I have all the parts in order and have tried numerous methods but I can't get the 3 ball bearings and the 2 springs into the cap in their correct positions. There is probably a procedure but I don't know what it is and I was wondering if anyone here has had their lift detent apart on their Eaton valve and know the procedure. I am guessing this style valve was used on many of the 245 265 and other farm loaders in the 80's and 90's.
Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks again
Dan
 
   / 245 loader hydraulic valve on 2355 tractor #2  
245loadervalve.gif

Mount valve in a vise, detent ends of spools facing up.
Use a punch to knock vent 31 from end cap 32 or 33. I knock out from the inside.
Insert from the outside of the end cap, through the vent hole, a punch/screwdriver/rod (choose one) that is longer than the vent cap
Use the punch/screwdriver/rod to push down on cone 30 to compress spring 27 or 28 until cone 30 is below holes for the balls 24
Continue to hold the cone down, grease balls or holes for balls, install balls in holes.
While still holding cone down, slide the end cap down the punch/screwdriver/rod.
Install retaining screws 34 and washers 36 for end cap
Install vent 31 back into end cap

To be clear, when I say use a punch/screwdriver/rod, you will only use one of these, NOT ALL THREE!. what ever works best for you :D
 
   / 245 loader hydraulic valve on 2355 tractor
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Hey Zebrafive

Just want to say thanks for the info. Putting it back together was very easy using your procedure.

Dan
 

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