2520 50 Hour Service Questions

[Runner]

I just did the 50 hour service on my 2520 and have a couple of questions.

First, the manual says there are two drain plugs for the transmission and rear axle housing. I only found one (see picture). Does anyone know where the other one is located? Are they talking about the plugs on the bottom of the final drives? If so, that would make three.

Second, the book says there is a spring behind the access plate for the suction screen, but I didn't see one when I removed the plate. My suction screen seems to just fit tight into the wells on each end. Also, there were only two bolts holding the plate, not four as in the manual. Is yours like this?

As others have noted, the pictures in the manual don't really match the tractor (for one thing, half the pictures are of a 2320).

 

[ScottK]

I have the 2320 and there are the two plugs and the spring. The second plug is useless as far as I can tell, so maybe they removed it from the 2520. Definately can't count on the pictures. The 2320 had the 4 bolts as well. Sounds like they got 2320 pictues in your manual. I'm not sure what pictures they put in my manual - they aren't the 2320 I have. Sounds like they need a new editor.

 

[kennyd]

I can't specifically address the 2520, but you should pull the plugs on the two final gear reduction cases to get that oil out.

 

[hemiguy]

Runner,

I have previously posted on exactly the same issue. My manual was also completely wrong on anything concerning the hydro oil change. Apparently Deere has space aliens, or Chimpanzees, or just people who don't know or care about their products writing their manuals now.

Sorry if I sound PO'd, but my 2520 is currently at the dealer having a suspected faulty hydraulic coupler looked at. My tractor only has 105 hrs on it and the loader quit working on a customer's property this weekend. Luckily I was basically done with the days work.

This new issue is in addition to the (hopefully) well know issue with 3PT arms rubbing and this issue with the bogus manual. You should also know that the engine oil capacity is 4 QTs not 3 as listed in your manual so you'd better buy a whole gallon.

I went to one of the local affilated dealers about the manual issue and he copied the pages for me (from his newer correct manual) about the hydro change, but didn't know if he could get me a whole new manual under warranty (what the @##?$^^!!). Of course the service manager also didn't know anything about 3PT arm replacement on the 2520's. I'm obviously going to continue pushing their buttons about these things, but at this point my confidence in Deere standing behind their products is down to about zero.

Sorry, but thats the way I feel right now. I almost went orange instead of the 2520 and these things will not be forgotten the next time I go tractor shopping.

 

[goodbyeNJ]

Runner
My machine has two drain plugs, as you already know the second one is not as shown in the junk manual.
The second one is on the left side of the trans, near the bottom. It is next to a switch on the outside of the case. Both plugs require a 17mm wrench.

Hemiguy
My first manual had even more errors, including the wrong specifications. When I called for a correct manual, they told me I would have to pay for it - only one manual per machine. After I told them I would return the tractor for a refund they decided to send me a correct manual.
The second one had less errors, but still had the specs for a 2320. Same argument, same result - they sent a third manual. The third seems to be what everyone else now has.
I spent a lifetime in the printing industry, doing everything from setting type, running presses, purchasing printing for a large corp., plant management and sales. Never came across a client with Deere's indifference and tolerance for totally substandard work.
Welcome to the 21st century!

 

[FastPauly]

Anyone know what 2520 manual JD has available on their website....is it the most recent? One would think it would be....I can't figure out why they don't allow downloading the manual as a .pdf file....it can only be viewed online, what's up with that?

 

[Runner]

Guys,

Thanks a million for all the responses.

FastPauly and Kenny - The manual on the JD web site now shows my machine accurately and it DOES say to drain the final drives. Also shows the two-bolt suction screen cover plate and no suction screen spring. I'm sure the reason you can "view only" the manual online is because they want to SELL you the manual.

Anyway, I'm done now and not about to drain $65 worth of fresh oil out just to get the couple of ounces that was left in the final drives at this point. It still took about 3.75 gallons (as compared to the 3.9 the manual said it should take) so I figure I got most of the bad stuff out. Since this is normally a 200 hour interval item, I won't feel too bad about having a little left in there, plus, with two filters, I figure most of the particles are getting taken out of the mix. I'll definitely remember to do it next time. Sure wish I'd looked at the on-line manual first.

hemi - yeah, I found that the engine takes 4 quarts too. In fact, even with a gallon, it still didn't fill up to the top hatch mark on the dipstick. Fortunately, I bought Shell Rotella T and it came in a gallon jug.

Thanks again for the support.

 

[Deadman]

I can't remember what was wrong when I did my rear end fluid change. I know the book was way wrong in several areas, but they were actually the propper directions for doing my old 2210!

 

[nate_m]

This post reminded me that it was time for my first 50 hour service. So, I got that done this morning. A couple of items that I noticed.

1. Engine oil capacity is definately 4 qts. My printed manual says 2.8 qts in the how-to text. But in the back of manual, in the Capacities section. It does give the correct amount under Crankcase oil. Also, the Online manual at JD.com also specifies the wrong amount.
2. For the Hydro oil change, there was at least 2 qts in the final drives and there were definately fines in there. So its a good idea to drain them too.
3. When you take out the main Hydro drain plug, have your catch bucket several inches in front of the drain. It comes out pretty quick at first and will make a puddle in no time!
4. I found just as much metal shavings on my Hydro screen as the OP.
5. I used JD Low Viscosity Hy-guard for the re-fill. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The steering is easier, the Treadle pushes easier, the FEL operates quicker & there is less whine noise in Hi gear.

That's all I got.

Happy tractorin!

 

[prosperity]

Thanks for that info nate_m

The only question that remains for me is exactly how much Hydro fluid did you need for the refill?

Thanks