2520 Performance Updade

[Runner]

Just a quick update on a 2520 performance issue I mentioned in my first impressions post on this unit. I had originally noted that the unit felt quite stable on the side hills I’m mowing with my 72 inch RFM, however, there was some sideways sliding and, due to the lightness in the rear of the tractor, I had to run in 4WD all the time for traction.

Last weekend I picked up a set of 4, 60lb JD wheel weights and have since installed and test driven them with both the 72 inch RFM and my 60 inch rotary cutter. I am pleased to say that the extra 240lbs on the rear wheels has solved the traction issue, and I now only really need 4WD for improved traction/braking performance on the very worst hills that have to be taken vertically.

While I’m not especially crazy about how they look, they do get the job done and will also be helpful in loader/pallet fork operations. The other neat thing about these is that the second (and third, if you have one) weights are very easy to stack on the first one once you have it installed.

 

[lincolnvt]

Runner - thanks for sharing. Are you also running filled rear tires?

 

[Runner]

No, just the weights. Filled tires would have solved the problem (probably better) but I was hesitant due to issues with rim corrosion and leakage after tire punctures.

 

[Chris2520]

Runner , it looks like you are all set up
and ready to do some serious work. ..

Chris...

 

[Runner]

Yes, but somewhere in the back of my head, there are these voices saying "Backhoe, Backhoe, Backhoe"....

 

[gunmaker]

Funny I just did the same thing...adding only 1 on each side. Does the second one bolt to the first, or do you have to remove the first and install both together? I may have to get two more...you think you needed 2 on each side?

 

[Runner]

Gunmaker,

Yes, the weights are made with 4 holes each. 2 holes are just 1/2 inch for the carriage bolt to go through that comes through the square hole in the wheel and the other two have the 1/2 inch hole all the way through, plus, a molded-in receiver area for the head of another carriage bolt. So, you can put the bolts for the second weight through the weight, attach the nuts and then push the weight up against the receiver molded into the face of the first weight. Then, you twist the second weight to lock the heads of the carriage bolts into the receiver and tighten the nuts. It's a lot easier than it sounds.

If you look close at the picture, you can see that two of the bolt holes have a slot that's big enough for the head of the carriage bolt to fit through.

I was a little confused at first because there are 4 square holes in the wheel, but the mounting kit only came with two bolts. So, I guess the weights only require two bolts to hold them on.

Actually, since I ordered two weights per side all at once, along with the attachment kits, I got 4 carriage bolts for each attachment kit. You have two short ones that go through the wheels and two long ones that attach the second weight to the first. Strangely enough, my kits only came with two nuts and washers each. When I went back to the dealer to try and get the rest of the required nuts and washers, I had to practically arm wrestle the parts guy to get them. I don't think he ever believed me that you needed a nut and washer for each bolt, but there's no other way the things could go together (no instructions came with them, of course).

For my application, two weights per side feels like the minimum I can get away with. I like the idea that I can easily add another weight to each side if necessary.

 

[Chris2520]

Yes, but somewhere in the back of my head, there are these voices saying "Backhoe, Backhoe, Backhoe"....

Yes i agree with you. everyone needs a Hoe....
You my as well get one. I think you done bought every thing else..

Chris....

 

[prosperity]

Glad you got that worked out Runner, and thanks for sharing your results.

Our machines are powerful, yet quite light - proper ballasting is essential. And each application requires some thought/trial & error to get it right.

Being that a finish mower basically rides on the ground itself, I can see where you had some problems.

I use a bush hog, which of course only partially rides on the ground, and found my front end to be a bit light instead of the rear. When bush hogging with my loader off, I use 7 45# weights on the front of the machine to get me good and stable.

I hope everyone takes the time to get their machine ballasted properly for each application - a very important safety issue!

 

[GordNovo]

Glad you got that worked out Runner, and thanks for sharing your results.

Our machines are powerful, yet quite light - proper ballasting is essential. And each application requires some thought/trial & error to get it right.

Being that a finish mower basically rides on the ground itself, I can see where you had some problems.

I use a bush hog, which of course only partially rides on the ground, and found my front end to be a bit light instead of the rear. When bush hogging with my loader off, I use 7 45# weights on the front of the machine to get me good and stable.

I hope everyone takes the time to get their machine ballasted properly for each application - a very important safety issue!

Absolutely agree Prosperity!!

I run a 60" RFM and I use it to cut a long ditch that's 660 ft long and pretty steep on both sides. I'll take pictures soon!!! The pucker factor was quite severe with my previous 2305 and 62C MMM but now with the new 2520 pulling the RFM and 3*45lb weights on the front, I can maneuver over every inch of the long steep ditch with relative ease and comfort. Doesn't matter if I'm parallel, adjacent or diagnal to the slope. The key is to keep the RFM deck low to the ground.

Runner, I'm glad the 72" is working out for you... at times, I kinda regret not going for the wider deck and I totally see how the extra ballast would've helped stop the rear sliding effect. I occiasionally experience the same thing with my setup when the ground is a little slippery and based on your post, I'm thinking some extra rear ballast could really solve this problem.

One interesting item regarding stability on the slopes with the 2520. Where I used to be concerned with tipping on the 2305, I find the new tractor to be a lot more stable and it seems like it's a lot more probabe that the tractor will slide down the hill before it ever crosses that centre of gravity threshold.

GordNovo