2538 Maintenance Question

[Oledadger]

Dealer just sent me quote for $700 for the 50 hour. Quickly moving on to plan B...

I have read a few threads with guys trying to figure out cross reference filters. Has that been finalized? Also, some guys say yes to air/fuel filter at this point... some say no. Does everyone agree on which fluid to put in front axle and a suitable hydraulic / hydro fluid.

Not looking to start another debate just curious what others have done that are used to maintaining farm/heavy equipment. I have some experience in light cars and trucks and could probably inch my way through but thought this may be worth a shot.

oh, and a photo of the finger on (had a guy ask about that)

 

[dickfoster]

Dealer just sent me quote for $700 for the 50 hour. Quickly moving on to plan B...

I have read a few threads with guys trying to figure out cross reference filters. Has that been finalized? Also, some guys say yes to air/fuel filter at this point... some say no. Does everyone agree on which fluid to put in front axle and a suitable hydraulic / hydro fluid.

Not looking to start another debate just curious what others have done that are used to maintaining farm/heavy equipment. I have some experience in light cars and trucks and could probably inch my way through but thought this may be worth a shot.

oh, and a photo of the finger on (had a guy ask about that)

I would not replace the air filter but the first to change is the engine oil and filter, then both fuel filters, then the hydraulic filter but I'd change the hydraulic oil too if I replaced the hydraulic filter. Changing one without changing the other is like taking a shower while wearing a raincoat. I suggest you do the fuel filters with an empty tank because the tank will drain when you remove the lower filter.
As far as front axle oil it's your choice, either gear lube or hydraulic fluid but knowing what I do about diffs and gears I went with gear lube in my front axle. I've repaired and set up several diffs and gear sets in my truck along with doing other gearbox work. If anything tractor gears lead as hard if not harder life as they do in my rock crawler.
BTW I like your ripper tooth. It looks meaner than than my Brotek tooth. Looks like it would take a better bite out of tree roots and stumps.

 

[Oledadger]

Thanks df. I will take your word above... much appreciated. Ripper tooth works well. Doesn't replace dynamite but with a little touch you can pick away at them. I am working on a tool box design now if I can find a way to mount it securely without blocking view and no drilling. More on that once it gets off the ground

 

[dickfoster]

Thanks df. I will take your word above... much appreciated. Ripper tooth works well. Doesn't replace dynamite but with a little touch you can pick away at them. I am working on a tool box design now if I can find a way to mount it securely without blocking view and no drilling. More on that once it gets off the ground

I need to mount a toolbox too. With the backhoe on, that only leaves the area on the lower right side of the floor. I can't get on the tractor from that side anyway due to the loader lever so it's no real loss. Not much room for carrying stuff on these machines. At least I can hang a couple of chains from the left side loader mount but that's about it. Oh yeah there's two cup holders to work with and the little box in the dash to stuff a pair of work gloves into.

 

[JerryK]

Not sure what trans you have, but if it is an HST... filters will cost up to $200. You do not probably need to change the air filter, or even the fuel filter if you have been sourcing clean fuel since you bought it, but you should go ahead and buy all of them at once and keep them on hand. I bought a ' filter kit ' for my 5035 HST from Bill's online that included the whole range of filters. But you can get filters either at your dealer or online at other places. I dumped and changed everything except the coolant at 50 hours. Making sure to pull all the drain plugs I could find and make sure the magnets were cleaned. On my tractor, I used 10 gallons on Tractor Supply Company [ TSC ] Premium Universal Transmission/Hyd Fluid. I used 80W90 gear oil in my front axle. Rotella T 10w40 oil in the motor. Remember, this was for a 5035, not a 2538.

 

[oldpilgrim]

At 50 hr, my manual says to just change the engine oil and engine filters. If yours is an HST, then the hydro already has 2 filters in it for the hydro oil so it's doing a good job of catching stuff in the fluid.. At 100 hours, I changed everything, I put Rotella T6 synth oil in the engine and TSC Premium hydro fluid in the tranny and front axle. .

The old hydro oil and filters looked like new, clean and clear.

Don't worry about the hydro oi at 50 hrs.

 

[Oledadger]

I will order filter pack for $179 and the oil for $36 from Bill's. I will change engine oil/filter now. At 100 hours, front axle fluid (replace with gear lube) , hydraulic/hydro oil and filters(replace with premium TSC), fuel filters and air filter (if it can convince me it is dirty)

I will clean magnets on the drain plugs.

Final question-- sounds like the hydraulic fluid has been clean and clear on everyone that has drained it. Do I dare push beyond 100 hours, say up to 200 before first change on that?

 

[oldpilgrim]

if you put hydro oil in the front axle, you won't need to get and keep spare gear lube on hand.

Either hydro oil or gear lube will work just fine. Mine came with hydro in it.

I'm betting you could get away with waiting for 200 hours, but personally, and from a warrentee point of view, I'd stick with the 100 hour change.

 

[JerryK]

I will order filter pack for $179 and the oil for $36 from Bill's. I will change engine oil/filter now. At 100 hours, front axle fluid (replace with gear lube) , hydraulic/hydro oil and filters(replace with premium TSC), fuel filters and air filter (if it can convince me it is dirty)

I will clean magnets on the drain plugs.

Final question-- sounds like the hydraulic fluid has been clean and clear on everyone that has drained it. Do I dare push beyond 100 hours, say up to 200 before first change on that?

My sump screen had lots of gray sludge on it, and metal chips at 50 hours, on my 5035. When I changed it again at 400 hours, everything was clean down there..... Others, report clean sumps at first change. My tractor was worked from the get go..... within reason... Another option, if you can sleep at night, is to wait until 75 then do the 50 and 100... but don't tell anyone...

 

[dickfoster]

I will order filter pack for $179 and the oil for $36 from Bill's. I will change engine oil/filter now. At 100 hours, front axle fluid (replace with gear lube) , hydraulic/hydro oil and filters(replace with premium TSC), fuel filters and air filter (if it can convince me it is dirty)

I will clean magnets on the drain plugs.

Final question-- sounds like the hydraulic fluid has been clean and clear on everyone that has drained it. Do I dare push beyond 100 hours, say up to 200 before first change on that?

We have the same engine so you might want to read my posts on changing the engine oil and fuel filters. There are some gotchas where the manual tends to mislead you so don't take the manual as pure gospel.

One thing to consider is that the first filter changes are the most critical as there are typically wear particles from all the new gears, bearings and such lapping themselves in. For example both engine oil drain plugs had fine metal particles trapped on the magnets but this is normal. The first oils and lubes are usually considered to be break in lube. If you are going to skip any, don't skip the first ones.