Oil & Fuel 2538 Service (oil/filter, Hyd system, front axle flush)

[Dgford162]

Hey all, I'm looking to perform some routine maintenance on my 2538 HST. I have approximately 325 hours on the machine right now. At the 350 hour mark, I am going to perform engine oil and filter (which I am familiar with) change and was possibly looking at doing the hydraulic system as well, just to start fresh on performing my own service maintenance. I guess I'm just looking for some advice on how to properly perform the hydraulic system service. From everything I've read in the useless operators manual, the great information available on this forum and youtube, I don't think it will be too overwhelming. However, prior to getting knee deep in it, I wanted to just confirm a few things. Any feedback would be much appreciated!

Just to confirm, the hydraulic system and the HST transmission both feed from the same hydraulic reservoir? I think it's referred to as a "universal transmission/hydraulic system"? So when I go to fill with the new fluid, I just fill through the filler port located on top of the transmission in the rear?

There are (2) filters to address that deal with the Hydraulic system? The HST filter, and the Screen? Whats everyone's advice on the screen? I see in the manual it just recommends checking and cleaning it. Is it better to just replace with a new one? Or does the screen hold up well and its safe to just clean and reinstall. Also, where exactly is the screen filter located?

What's everyone's suggestion on the hyd system service intervals?

Whats the best way to replace the fuel filters without dumping a lot of diesel? On youtube, I watched a video of a 50 hour service and the fuel seemed to just keep running while swapping the old filter for the new one. Is there a shutoff somewhere which would eliminate that issue, or do you just let it spill out?

And the last question, for now anyway, is it worth paying for the Mahindra service manual? I see a lot of guys saying its not worth the $ and is pretty much useless. I like having something to look at and follow when doing service on my machines. But there doesnt seem to be much out there on the 2538.

Up until this point, all the maintenance and some warranty work has been done by my dealer. Warranty work included a wiring harness that was burned on the exhaust manifold, shorting out the lights and gauge cluster, a replaced FEL hydraulic hose which was wearing because it was rubbing against the FEL upright bracket and a steering cylinder replacement. The steering cylinder was replaced TWICE in my short time of owning this machine. After replacing it the second time, with less than 10 hours post replacement, one of the ball joints separated from the steering cylinder shaft, stripping the threads. This of course happened after the warranty was up, but after discussing it with the dealer, they were able to convince mahindra that it should be covered under warranty, simply because it would have never occurred, had the steering cylinder not been defective, two times. So this brand new machine that I purchased in 2016, is currently operating on it's 3rd steering cylinder. Hopefully this one holds up!

Hope to get some good feedback on this thread. Thanks!

 

[RNeumann]

Yes the trans and hydraulic system are the same system. A good THF is what you need for both the trans and hydraulic fluid.

The screen isn’t something I’ve had in my hand so I can’t tell you that. But in general screens just need to be cleaned.

The fuel will leak out. I did a YouTube video on installing a shut off on my 1538. A pair of vise grips would do the trick too.

I have the 1538 manuals. It’s not a big help but does have some fluid recommendations and locations. If you want it- get it.

I’d do everything at the 300 hour intervals. They say engine oil should be every year because of condensation but everything else at 300 hours. The front axle will work with THF or gear oil. If you are in a warm area use gear oil. If it’s cold use THF. The front axle has an easy life from a lubrication standpoint.

 

[duffer]

What RNeumann said and a couple more suggestions:
* Make your own dipstick for the Hydraulic reservoir. Depending on your fluid, it can be tough to see the level thru the viewing glass.
* If you got both fuel filters (the paper, and the Bosch with sensor) chang the Bosch first, but make sure to unplug the sensor first. Then remove filter, and then sensor. Keep the O ring!
* I used a clamp on the inbound fuel line to the paper filter on the right side of motor. I wouldn't suggest "kinking" it.

I do oil & filter every 100 hours. Hydraulic oil & filter every 500 hours, and fuel filters as well.
Grease every 10 hours.

The owners manual has a pretty good diagram of the drain plug locations.

Do a search on here for the filter #'s you need. One guy did a good job of showing alternative Wix filter numbers.

One word of caution when you change the hydraulic fluid...get yourself a breaker bar to add to your socket/open end wrench. The factory spec is to paint the plugs shut, after they torque them to 1000 ft lbs of pressure. Took me 30+ minutes to release all of them. I even had to use a torch to heat up one of the front axle drain plugs to get it loose.

 

[Dgford162]

Thanks for the information!

 

[Tom Kat]

What RNeumann said and a couple more suggestions:
* Make your own dipstick for the Hydraulic reservoir. Depending on your fluid, it can be tough to see the level thru the viewing glass.
* If you got both fuel filters (the paper, and the Bosch with sensor) chang the Bosch first, but make sure to unplug the sensor first. Then remove filter, and then sensor. Keep the O ring!
* I used a clamp on the inbound fuel line to the paper filter on the right side of motor. I wouldn't suggest "kinking" it.

I do oil & filter every 100 hours. Hydraulic oil & filter every 500 hours, and fuel filters as well.
Grease every 10 hours.

The owners manual has a pretty good diagram of the drain plug locations.

Do a search on here for the filter #'s you need. One guy did a good job of showing alternative Wix filter numbers.

One word of caution when you change the hydraulic fluid...get yourself a breaker bar to add to your socket/open end wrench. The factory spec is to paint the plugs shut, after they torque them to 1000 ft lbs of pressure. Took me 30+ minutes to release all of them. I even had to use a torch to heat up one of the front axle drain plugs to get it loose.

Do you happen to remember what size socket you used on the front axle drain plugs? The vent plugs on the upper final drive look tough to get too...

 

[duffer]

Do you happen to remember what size socket you used on the front axle drain plugs? The vent plugs on the upper final drive look tough to get too...

If I remember, I didn't use a socket. I used an open end wrench because the drain plugs are square. Less chance of rounding off the corners. They are metric. Be sure to drain the axle next to each of the front wheels. It's a pain, but most of the fluid is located there. I used a funnel under the plug, to direct it to my drain pan, otherwise the wheel is in the way.

 

[duffer]

When trying to fill the tranny and front axles with hydraulic oil, you better think long and hard on how you're going to hold a five gallon bucket and pour it into the filling hole...:smiley_aafz:

I had a cheap ebay diesel fuel pump that I thought I'd try. If I burned it up, so what. It was worth a try. As it turned out, it worked like a charm, and I don't think I spilled a drop. It's not the fastest gun in the west, but beats holding a can up for 10 minutes trying to pour into a quarter size hole, even with a funnel.

 

[Tom Kat]

Thank you fellas. I have been down the hand pour path the old school way with an old Case 730 I own, it sucked! Those upper square drain plugs are driving me crazy. I really, really done want to round them off, they promise to be a challenge.

 

[Tom Kat]

If I remember, I didn't use a socket. I used an open end wrench because the drain plugs are square. Less chance of rounding off the corners. They are metric. Be sure to drain the axle next to each of the front wheels. It's a pain, but most of the fluid is located there. I used a funnel under the plug, to direct it to my drain pan, otherwise the wheel is in the way.

The wheel is also in the way to remove the upper plug bold, not the best design I have ever seen.

 

[Tom Kat]

If I remember, I didn't use a socket. I used an open end wrench because the drain plugs are square. Less chance of rounding off the corners. They are metric. Be sure to drain the axle next to each of the front wheels. It's a pain, but most of the fluid is located there. I used a funnel under the plug, to direct it to my drain pan, otherwise the wheel is in the way.

The wheel is also in the way to remove the upper plug bold, not the best design I have ever seen.