254, 4x4

[magyarbacsi]

Hello all Jinma owners.
I'm considering buying a new 254 4x4, manual trans.tractor only, for light duty use. I have read many posts regarding Jinmas and noticed various parts and fixable problems that were premature. Is there a common item(s), part, that should be replaced off the start, or an upgrade, that will make the tractor more reliable. I'm capable of working on machines and motors or i would not venture buying a Jinma. It will be used mainly by my wife so that she wont constantly ask to use my full size MF, as she had one major experience that made me decide to keep her off of it.
I would appreciate any and all suggestions of upgrading this unit to make it more reliable and less time with repairing it.

Than you in advance to all who reply,

Karoly, Seattle

 

[greg_g]

Crate tractor - or dealer prep'd ?

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

Very good question. A good number of basic issues are resolved by a good assembly and dealer prep.

 

[magyarbacsi]

Auction. This guy bought several and auctions them off so i dont know. I did look at it and it has the fluids except for the radiator is empty. I do intend on running it just to warm it up then drain all the fluids and replace with known brand names.

 

[greg_g]

I do intend on running it just to warm it up then drain all the fluids and replace with known brand names.

That's a good start. I'd proceed under the assumption that zero prep work has been done, and that the assembly work was probably less than exacting. Don't stop at draining, flush well before replacing fluids & filters. Flush everything; hydraulics, tranny/rear diff, transfer case, front diff, engine, cooling system. With the possible exception of air, change all filters. Clean/inspect/replace the hydraulic suction screen. Tighten every single nut and bolt on the machine. Sand/grind paint off under ground wires. Flush/refill/tighten again at 50 hours, changing oil and fuel again. Clean/inspect/replace suction screen. Re-torque the head bolts and adjust the valve lash.

Use engine oil that's diesel rated, typically 15W40. Use non-foaming gear oil in the tranny and diffs, typically 80W90 or 85W140 in warm climates. Avoid synthetics until after 300 hours. Most commonly used hydraulic fluid is AW32 (AW46 in warm climates). Many folks use engine oil in the injection pump. I personally prefer compressor oil (ISO100). Engine coolant should be at least 50/50, not more than 70/30. Consider a supplemental coolant additive (SCA).

//greg//

 

[kenmac]

I dont own a chinese tractor myself, but I have a friend that owns 1 and he was asking me about antifreeze. I use a diesel rated antifreeze for my tractor . Do you guys use a coolant rated for diesel engines in these or just plain o' 50/50 antifreeze ?
thanks

 

[Red55]

use diesel rated antifreeze- specially for "wet sleeve' applications. Personally I changed my water in the radiator 2or 3 times (warm up cool down drain) than I used a radiator cleaner than flush again than used Final Charge Global antifreeze. Pretty ease to change - there's a handle to turn by oil dip stick to drain the engine as well as the radator.
-Ed

 

[3RRL]

I dont own a chinese tractor myself, but I have a friend that owns 1 and he was asking me about antifreeze. I use a diesel rated antifreeze for my tractor . Do you guys use a coolant rated for diesel engines in these or just plain o' 50/50 antifreeze ?
thanks

I use Fleet Charge with SCA or like Ed said, Final charge especially for "wet sleeved" engines. Here's a link to my flushing and change over.
Flushing Radiator
Personally, I found it's better not to go over 50/50 mix or the tractor will actually run a little hotter since the anti freeze does not dissipate heat as well as water.

magyarbacsi,
You'll find the basic tractor tool is fairly well built and heavy enough in construction. What Greg said about prepping it and making sure every electrical connection and nut and bolt is tight is very important. I'd check and adjust the valve lash too for sure. The only other things to watch out for is the Chinese hydraulic valves and their QD's, as they are not real good. But you can use them and make your own adjustment if desired.

 

[magyarbacsi]

Thanks for the many responses. I have a chance to pick this up for 5K plus tax. The final bidder backed out so I'm next in line. I had it for a little over 4K, this guy bid over 5K and 2 days later I get an email for 2nd chance. It is valid as I called the place that is selling it. Not sure if this was not just a ploy to get the price higher. It is local so only $100 to have it delivered. The only draw back is it is as-is so I will have to buy any parts if needed. I have read enough posts, over 100, on this forum and down loaded many pictures to put together a manual. The clutch seems to be tricky to adjust, from what I've read and problematic?
The co. bought several, assembled, and auctioned them off. I know 5k is not a bad price, tractor only, but it would be nice to have that 1year back up, even if its just for parts.
My next bet would be that 284/shuttle, crated from LA. Its on ebay, buy it now price at $5,500 plus shipping.

By the way, why does it show that I'm logged on and when I hit reply, it states I have to log on first. I have lost several replies like that. Hope this goes.

 

[Red55]

Magyarbacsi- I too was intimadated by the clutch adjustment. . But it is way easier that I thought it would be. Check outwww.johnstractor.com/JMClutchAdj.html]Johnstractor.com - The Best Tractor Resources and Information. This website is for sale![/url] What is critical is that they are all equal distance so the clutch wears evenly. The specs are on the site (remember 1.5mm for clutch & 1.0 mm for pto - I don't rely on my memory would sug you don't either ) I also coated the threads with my wifes white nail polish. It was the closest thing I had that would work like glip-all (spelling) I didn't want the adjustments moving later on. Good luck I still have to work up the courage (&time) to retorque the head. -Ed