254, 4x4

   / 254, 4x4
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Red, I tried to look for the clutch info on johns web site but all there is is a list of other links to other tractors. Is it still there and under what menu?
 
   / 254, 4x4
  • Thread Starter
#12  
3rrl, I have found various figures for the valve lash on the Y385 motor on this forum. has anyone come up with a final number to use? Also, what oils recommended for the trany and front axle. UTL? Seattle weather seldom dips bellow 35 in winter and I dont plan on using this machine till spring. by then 50C is the norm. Again, just to pull maybe a 4' brush hog and finish mower and maybe a rototiller. My grown up tractors will do the heavy stuff.
 
   / 254, 4x4 #13  
Magyarbacsi- when i tried to leave the link for the clutch it got changed to the "for sale" b.s. Use/JMClutchAdj.html after "Johnstractor.com" For oils I'm using hd 30 weight (diesel rated) for break-in on third change @ next change I'm going Mobil 1 15-50 weight (like rob (3r)) For gear oil using Coastal (autozone) 80w90 for hydraulics I'm using Coastal '303' oil. It is critical you dump the stuff that they shipped the tractor with. -Ed
 
   / 254, 4x4 #14  
magyarbacsi said:
3rrl, I have found various figures for the valve lash on the Y385 motor on this forum. has anyone come up with a final number to use? Also, what oils recommended for the trany and front axle. UTL? Seattle weather seldom dips bellow 35 in winter and I dont plan on using this machine till spring. by then 50C is the norm. Again, just to pull maybe a 4' brush hog and finish mower and maybe a rototiller. My grown up tractors will do the heavy stuff.
I'm curious - didn't you get tractor and engine manuals with your tractor? There should have been four.

I just did a valve adjust on a Y85, and used 0.12 for exhaust and 0.10 for intake. Valve train was REAL tight, had to loosen nearly every one to get those numbers.

Tranny/diff and front axle use regular gear oil, not UTF. Cold to cool climates, use 80W90. Moderate to warm, use 85W140. 50C by the way, is about 122 degrees Fahrenheit.

//greg//
 
   / 254, 4x4 #15  
magyarbacsi said:
3rrl, I have found various figures for the valve lash on the Y385 motor on this forum. has anyone come up with a final number to use? Also, what oils recommended for the trany and front axle. UTL? Seattle weather seldom dips bellow 35 in winter and I dont plan on using this machine till spring. by then 50C is the norm. Again, just to pull maybe a 4' brush hog and finish mower and maybe a rototiller. My grown up tractors will do the heavy stuff.
Yes, I see what you mean.
I don't have that motor, but from what I've read they vary from (in inches) .012"intake to .018 exhaust). Most of the ones I read ended up up setting the valves (both) at .016". My opinion only...better a little loose than too tight.
I did a quick search for your y385 engine. This is what came up. You might want to read those articles yourself.
Chinese Tractor Owners Association - CTOA Forums - Tractor Operation and Maintenance - Another Valve Lash Adjustment Discussion
http://www.homestead.com/ctoa/files/08_01_mba.pdf

As far as the gear oil in the trans and front end, again I'm not sure what your manual recommends, probably straight 90w. I use 85w/140 in mine since I'm in a hot climate and it rarely gets to freezing in the Winter. You know 50C is like 122F? That's hot too! Anyway, it's made a difference in the smoothness of shifting and operation both.
Not sure about this, but suggested is a GL4 gear oil that won't damage yellow metals such as bearings, since I don't know what's in your trans and I don't want to steer you wrong?
 
   / 254, 4x4 #16  
Magyarbacsi- I tried the link and it wouldn't work for me either. Check out CTOA web site (Chinese Tractors Owners Assoc) on the bottom of the home page there's an article by Chip on adjusting the clutch. The link which I was trying to sent you to had great pictures. Really glad I printed it out. .Computer too heavy to hold while doing the adjustment:) Plus the paper still works after I drop it on the ground! Ed
 
   / 254, 4x4 #17  
Magyarbacsi- I found it try Johnstractor.homestead.com Look under Jinma Info then Jinma Maintence was written by Spiker. . Ed
 
   / 254, 4x4 #18  
3RRL said:
Not sure about this, but suggested is a GL4 gear oil that won't damage yellow metals such as bearings,
It's not the oil itself that's potentially harmful to yellow metals, but the additives - particularly the EP (extreme pressure) additives. That's why a GL1 or MT1 should be suitable for these machines, they're not typically for EP applications. If you find more than one and can't make up your mind, take the one that's recommended for hi torque/low speed applications

//greg//
 
   / 254, 4x4 #19  
Here's links to the clutch adjustment, John's pages with much info in assorted places on his site, and a batch of service bulletins that are also useful.

The manuals that come with a tractor have the valve adjust specs and a lot more info throughout. I agree with 3RRL's "better a little loose than too tight" philosophy on valve adjusting and it comes from several years as an auto tech amongst 30 years in a service industry. Valves are cooled by their time in contact with their seats and cool valves don't burn or drop off their little heads in nasty destruction. :)

magyarbacsi,
I answered your pmail inadequately and late. I've been away from this site for too long - sorry.

Bidadoo were decent people but had little knowledge of the machines. I was led to believe that they were only selling them for someone who had bought the four of them on prospect and changed plans. They weren't thrilled over the end price I paid but didn't take it out on me.

Yes, my radiator was empty too. I'd forgotten about that.

All good advise above and RonMar was especially helpful when I was asking similar questions to yours. Those threads must be here - try a search on my name or on Ron's, or both. Lots of good info is already here waiting for you.




JMClutchAdj

johnstractor

Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes
 
   / 254, 4x4
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Thank you all for the overwhelming response. Regarding my previous mistake, I was thinking metric when thinking about the temp. Yes I know how to convert celcius to ferenheit, and I meant 50 F.
I have not acquired the tractor yet, sale pending, and have to rethink my original objective-teach the boy how to use and maintain a tractor-not constantly fixing.I'm bussy enough adding buildings and maintaining a log home. Just the same, might kill two birds at the same time. As a hobby, I used to rebuild cars, from Porches to Vettes and have tried to involve my sons in the process so they dont have to depend on a sometimes shady mechanic to work on their cars. There is nothing on this tractor that I'd be afraid to tackle and if I had more time, would invite the problems just to teach him the repairs.
I have read almost every post regarding fix and upgrades, but have not obtained the factory manuals to get their specs and that is why I was asking for some of the info.
I dont think Jinma is that great of a machine, but what I find fantastic is the knowledge of people like you and willingness to share them. I dont see this with the other brands as much.

God Bless and wish all of you a Happy Thanks Giving
and a trouble free tractor

Karoly, Seattle
 

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