2638/2538 Top and Tilt

Hightide · Nov 9, 2021

Has anyone done this on their machine? I had a single remote added when I bought the machine and was wanting to add them and I have some questions around the dimensions used. When I measure my side link I get 15 1/2" retracted and 19 3/4" fully extended, top pin is 3/4" and bottom pin is 5/8", top fork width is 1 3/4" and bottom is 1". I think I found a cylinder that will work with the dimensions of 15 15/16" - 19 15/16" (respectively) fork widths are good, the dilemma is the pins, the cylinder I found is 15/16" on both ends. I spoke with Brian at Fitrite, awesome dude (I would have him make them for me but I have a couple of big projects I can't wait on and I need these now).

My top link is 18 1/2" retracted and 30 1/4" extended with 3/4" pins on both ends, the hydraulic version I found is 20 7/8" - 31 7/8" (respectively).

So, question one, today I have a quick attach, and for those of you with this model... its idea in concept is great, BUT... my tractor is a cab version (I suspect it would also affect OS versions as well) but with the QA on it will ABSOLUTELY take a corner of your fenders out at full height (ask me how I know

) aside from the several attachments that it simple will not work on so I am looking at Pat's system. All the research I've done says to add a few inches to your hydraulic toplink because of the set back and I have never seen an actual number. The top link I found won't add 2" but is longer, is that enough?

Second question, I have a backhoe frame on mine, in order to put the backhoe on, I have to drop the stabilizers and re-position the arms in on a bracket and remove the top link, my suspicion is I will have to remove the side link and put the manual factory one back on, but IF, by chance someone is reading this and could verify that would be nice.

Last question, I have been eyeing Summit Hydraulics Electric Rear Remote anyone had any experience with them?

MtnViewRanch · Nov 9, 2021

Take a look at the following links. Get the dimensions asked for and that will give you a place to start.

fitritehydraulics.com - clevis

Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.

www.fitritehydraulics.com

The AMA side link might prove to be more work that you are thinking.

Typically adding the Pats QH adds 3 3/4" to the length of the draft arms. I would recommend you add 3" to the what would be the std hydraulic top link for your application.

You might want to consider Euro type hook ends. You cut off your existing ball swivels, (normally at the welds holding the ball swivels) weld the Euro hooks on to your existing draft arms and you are all set.
These can be purchased at either AgristoreUSA or from me.
There are several threads on TBN about doing this.
Here is one of them.

Keep in mind that electric over hydraulic controls are not the optimum control for top & tilt cylinders.
You might want to consider a diverter setup and use your existing rear remote for the controlling valve.
Summit has those as well.

I carry a different type than the Summit aluminum diverters. Picture shows a triple diverter set with a single factory rear remote for the controlling valve on the tractor. The gray control grip is mounted on the factory remote lever and has 3 separate switches.

A double diverter set seems to be the most popular.

All things to be considered, good luck.

Ledgemere Farm · Nov 17, 2021

Does the 2638 have adjustable draft links? My 2538 didn’t, my 1635 does

LD1 · Nov 17, 2021

First question would be how important the side link is to you.

I made one for mine and I have three remotes but found that I seldom used it so I put the factory adjustable one back on.

No chance of cylinder drift or bumping a lever when I have my plow set perfect. And if I need a little tilt when using the rear blade, I simply angle the blade and use the toplink to get the desired tilt. (that wont work with a box blade as they wont angle)

BUT....with regard to the sidelink....the way it attaches to the lift arm.....the clevis on the end of the cylinder is LONGER than a normal clevis end on a cylinder. This is because the lift arm rotates and you need that clearance. A normal cylinder clevis may work when the lift arm is level.....but as you raise the hitch it will bind and probably break something. Also the top of the sidelink cylinder usually needs to be a ball swivel.

AND, since you only have a single remote....seems like the expense and headache to add a sidelink cylinder may not be justified.

LD1 · Nov 17, 2021

You can see how long the clevis's need to be on the sidelinks to account for the articulation of the lift arm.

You want at least as much if not a little more than your factory links