LS Tractor Owner
Super Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2017
- Messages
- 7,555
- Location
- Edgewood, NM
- Tractor
- LS XG3025 TLB, Previously MT125 TLB, Craftsman GTS6500
YES! Definitely keep us updated!
Retired toolmaker here who has removed a LOT of broken bolts.
The biggest take away advice l can offer is take great pains to get started IN THE CENTER. Use a dremel if you have it to flatten or concave the surface. Center punch. Move the spot as needed to get centered. Make it deep for a good start. If you have a stub drill bit (less flex) start off small, see if you're centered then increase to say .015" UNDER the tap drill size. Being hand held, you WILL have run out. Finish w the tap drill. That could reduce the run out by half therefore increase the thread engagement.
By all means use the "ain't never ever gonna" grade of thread locker -
Don't fry the alternator when you weld.
Get the direction strait in your head as to CW or CCW before you start torqueing it.
If this a repeat of how you would normally proceed, maybe it could help someone else down the line. Not trying to insult your intelligence or experience.
The biggest take away advice l can offer is take great pains to get started IN THE CENTER. Use a dremel if you have it to flatten or concave the surface. Center punch. Move the spot as needed to get centered. Make it deep for a good start. If you have a stub drill bit (less flex) start off small, see if you're centered then increase to say .015" UNDER the tap drill size. Being hand held, you WILL have run out. Finish w the tap drill. That could reduce the run out by half therefore increase the thread engagement.
By all means use the "ain't never ever gonna" grade of thread locker -
Don't fry the alternator when you weld.
Get the direction strait in your head as to CW or CCW before you start torqueing it.
If this a repeat of how you would normally proceed, maybe it could help someone else down the line. Not trying to insult your intelligence or experience.
