2720 options & implements to get?

watersniper · Nov 1, 2011

I have narrowed my search to a 2720 over the Kubota offerings. Now I need to decide what options and implements to get.

The basic setup will be 2720, 200cx FEL, 62D mower deck, 72" rear blade with skid shoes, turf tires.
I plan to use the tractor as my main mower on flat ground, hence the turf tires. This will also be my snow removal machine for a 650 ft. drive. Occasional loader work and garden plowing/turning/tilling are the plan.

The options I am not sure weather I need or not are:
Independent lift kit
Mid Mower-Loader Mechanical Diverter

The accessories I know I need:
TIRE CHAINS

The Implements I am considering buying new/used later or renting as needed:
Single bottom plow- will a double plow work on this size tractor? will either work at all with R3's?
5-6' 3PH disc
Rototiller
Middle Buster (to turn the garden, then disc?)
Obviously I don't need a tiller, a plow AND a middle buster but those were the options I was looking at.

KennyG · Nov 1, 2011

I have a 2320 with 62D. A number of people feel the independent lift kit is not necessary since you usually don't use the 3 pt. while mowing, but I have it and like the way it works. I don't have the diverter since I never mow with the loader still in place. Think through it for your own situation.

Your location is not clear, but assuming you are in the Great Lakes area, think twice about the turf tires. I have R4's and with sandy clay, really don't have any problem with marking the grass. Unless you intend to mow when it's really wet or have a constantly wet area, the turf tires probably aren't necessary.

Given your interest in plows, tillers etc, turf tires won't work very well. Also, I have several hundred feet of driveway in the lake effect area, clear it with the loader and blade with no problem. I have R4's, unweighted and no chains. I'd suggest you try it out without chains before investing in them. A CUT is a lot different than a garden tractor. :thumbsup:

watersniper · Nov 1, 2011

I watch my neighbor use his Kubota to mow with the FEL attached and it looks like a pain to mow around the landscaping... So I always thought I would drop my loader for mowing. So it sounds like I don't need/want the diverter...

I AM in NW OH, although our soil is more clay/loame. Wish I had some sand in there! I have very few days when the lawn is dried out but growing. It's either drought dormant or wet here. Then again I am saying this based upon the record rainfall we have had this year! Sounds like I need to test the R4's on the lawn at the tractor store and see how bad they mark things up when turning... I just figured the R4's would tear things up when I turned around obsticles.

billb3 · Nov 1, 2011

service manual
don't wait till you need it
and if you're lucky, if you have it you will never need it.

There are some parts that really should be in the owner's manual.

glc24 · Nov 2, 2011

Sounds like I need to test the R4's on the lawn at the tractor store and see how bad they mark things up when turning... I just figured the R4's would tear things up when I turned around obsticles.

Nope,not at all.
It all depends on how wet it might be ,and how heavy your foot is.

Myself,I don't have any issues with R4s.

Greg

pdp11 · Nov 2, 2011

I have a 2520 very similar to your setup; 200CX, 62D, 60" RB. I do have both the independent lift and the diverter valve. I also have R4 tires.

I ended up with the Frontier RB2060 60" rear blade because the dealer had it in stock and made me a good deal. Honestly, I like the fact that it's not wider given how I use it on my driveway.

As far as the independent lift and diverter valve go, there are arguments both ways on having them or not. I bought the 2520 because of the convenience it offered over other models. As a result, I saw both of these options as enhancing that convenience, which they do.

Besides not tying the mower lift to the 3PH, the argument I would make in favor of independent lift is that it offers a much easier way to lock the deck in the raised position. You can do that right from the seat with the height control knob.

The diverter valve is also convenient, but at a price that may be arguably high. Yes, I typically take the FEL off when I mow. But I often don't take the mower off when I use the FEL. The first time you put the FEL on, then realize you forgot to raise the mower and lock it in place, you will understand the value of the diverter valve. I like being able to leave the independent lift hoses connected all the time. Is it worth the price of the diverter valve? That's the question.

There are many people who feel strongly about turf vs R4 tires. I have the R4's, with the rears fluid filled. I have no problems with R4 tires on my soil and grass type here in NC. I will tell you that it is actually the front tires that can cause damage when you turn in a tight circle. If you want to rip up the lawn, engage the MFWD and the front tires will definitely rip it up. If you are going to do any serious landscaping work with the FEL or the rear blade where you are actually moving or grading soil, you will want the R4 tires instead of turfs. When dragging a 72" rear blade, turf tires will lose traction easily.

I also have an I-Match hitch, and I would highly recommend that to allow you to easily connect and disconnect the rear blade. It is a real convenience, especially if you have a prop rod stand on the RB like mine does.

Artesia Aggie · Nov 2, 2011

I have a 2520 with a JD tiller. Chose the tiller over other options mainly because of the size and weight of the tractor. Using the PTO of the tractor helps with hard soil. Also I second the I-match suggestion. I waited almost year to buy one and I still am kicking myself for waiting.

lost in wisconsin · Nov 3, 2011

I agree with the comments for adding the i-Match. It is a game changer when it comes to implements attaching to the 3 pt hitch.

watersniper · Nov 4, 2011

Oh boy I threw a monkey wrench into the works now...

I am looking at deleting the 62D MMM and going with a zero turn with 54" deck instead. I am also going with the R4 tires for the tilling/loader work.

For the $2500-3000 the 62D costs vs. a $4000 Z425 54" ZTR it might be worth the swap. I have a fair amount of obstacles to mow around. I am affraid the mowing speed gains with the 2720 would be negated by the lack of turning radius. As a comparison I currently use a cub cadet 50" riding mower. It is slow and doesn't cut great.