2nd source for wheel motors

[kjm3232]

i've had 2 wheel motors that leaked over the the last several months. i sent the 1st one in to PT to get fixed. I thought that after that one was repaired i could order the seal kits and try it myself. when the 2nd wheel motor went i was able to do the seals but i couldn't repair the front bearing so i had to send that down to them and have them install the parts i couldn't. anyway, i called PT to find out what another wheel motor would cost and they said around $595. So i figured i could shop around and see if anyone had a similar motor. I googled what was on the seal kit that i had and it read White CE 430/431 i found a place online Purchase Hydraulic pumps, motors, and valves at the Hydraulic Superstore and after many emails with a very friendly sales rep he said the white hydraulic motor, when i wanted to buy, was this model # 400300W3120AAAAA and the Price: $343.20. i havent called PT to find out what the pricing is for the hubs to put on this motor to match the wheels to see if it would be price effective to go that route instead of buying the complete wheel motor assembly from PT. Anybody else buy wheel motors from another hydraulic place and then add PT parts to it or did you buy another whole motor assembly from PT? thanks in advance

 

[J_J]

You might try this source. I think that most of the wheel motor shafts are tapered.

If you can get the seal kits at a good price, do it yourself, if not take the kit and motor to a hydraulic shop and get a price for a rebuild. Also ask if they guarantee their service.

Surplus Center

 

[SnowRidge]

Anybody else buy wheel motors from another hydraulic place and then add PT parts to it or did you buy another whole motor assembly from PT? thanks in advance

I've replaced one motor and done the seals in another myself, including pulling the hubs off. You need a big cheater bar and a quality puller.

I got the motor and seal kit from the nearest White distributor.

 

[kjm3232]

pulling the hubs off. You need a big[/I] cheater bar and a quality puller.

I got the motor and seal kit from the nearest White distributor.[/QUOTE]

I tried getting the big nut off using a 18" breaker bar and a 2' pipe over it after spraying it with WD 40 and PB blaster and it still wouldn't come off. Thats why i had to send it back in because i was able to replace the seals on the back end but couldn't replace the front bearing. i will be ordering the seal kits from a white distributor from now on since i know what kit goes in the motor now. Also when i had called terry to find out what the price for the repair was i asked him what they use to get the big nut off and he said they use a impact wrench connected to a air compressor. Since i dont have either of those than i either have to convince the wife that we need to get them and/or a bigger breaker bar or keep on sending the motor out for repair. Hopefuly she will let me get the wrench and compressor after knowing that the cost of repairs by sending it out will eventually exceed the price of the wrench and compressor. But I still would like to eventually get a spare motor so i can swap it out in a short time if one of the motor craps out especially with winter around the corner and we need the tractor to plow us out

 

[BobRip]

pulling the hubs off. You need a big[/i] cheater bar and a quality puller.

Also when i had called terry to find out what the price for the repair was i asked him what they use to get the big nut off and he said they use a impact wrench connected to a air compressor.

A compressor opens up a lot of capability. There are many jobs that you just can't do without an air impact wrench. Get one, and you will never regret it. I have one for each garage. The air chisel is great at exhaust systems. It can save hours and hours on them. Very cheap too!

 

[SnowRidge]

I have a PT-425, so my comments are in relation to the wheel motors on that size machine.

At least some of the hydraulic motor manufacurers say to never use an impact wrench on their products. At the time, I didn't have one, so I wasn't tempted. I used a 3/4 drive socket set with a 42 inch cheater bar on an 18 inch socket wrench. With all that leverage, I was just able to get the nut off, after considerable effort. If I remember correctly, the nut was supposed to be torqued to 400 foot pounds. It was at least that, probably much more.

Once I got the nut off, I had to use a US made puller and heat to get the hub off. I tried an el cheapo HF puller. It literally exploded on me.

My philosphy is to never pay someone to do something I can do myself if I have the right tools and can figure out how to do it without destroying the item or injuring myself to the point that I bleed more profusely than usual. I simply buy the tool instead and do it myself. Mostly, this has served me well over the years.

So far, I haven't found anything on my Power Trac that I can't repair or replace myself, a point that I have been able to prove to myself all too frequently.

Edit: Break the hub nut with the wheel still on the machine and on the ground. Blocking all four wheels makes it easier. Once the nut is loose, put the machine up on jack stands and do the rest.

 

[Sedgewood]

...

My philosphy is to never pay someone to do something I can do myself if I have the right tools and can figure out how to do it without destroying the item or injuring myself to the point that I bleed more profusely than usual. I simply buy the tool instead and do it myself. Mostly, this has served me well over the years.

...

Me too. Here's one of my favorites.

YouTube - Impact Wrench

Sedgewood

 

[SnowRidge]

Me too. Here's one of my favorites.

YouTube - Impact Wrench

Sedgewood

Yes, I howled the first time I saw that. It is real well done. I love it.

Thanks for putting up the link.

 

[kjm3232]

Edit: Break the hub nut with the wheel still on the machine and on the ground. Blocking all four wheels makes it easier. Once the nut is loose, put the machine up on jack stands and do the rest.[/QUOTE]

snowridge, that's what i had initially had done. i was jerking/moving the entire tractor each time i tried using the breaker bar/with the pipe added on to try and get the nut off. i did't block the wheels though. i will next time. thanks for the tip.