2x4 Snowblowing

[TimberXX]

I have a new to me Deere x730 (2wd, 1000 lbs), with a front 47 snowblower. I used it in about 5 inches if snow this weekend. It was ok on the flat, but my slight incline (3 ft rise over 15 ft) it was a mess.

I need three options (but are open to others):
1. Weight (I have no three point, and the Deere bracket is $172, plus $60 for every 42 pound weight)
2. Lower Tire Air Pressure (Free)
3. Rubber tire chains. I have pavers so metal chains wont work. $160, but i need to take them on and off for every storm.
4. fluid is tires wont work. I need to keep my ground pressure low for mowing.

Any consensus on which combo of these would work for me?

I like the four 42 lbs weights (168 lbs) and lower the tire pressure. Thoughts?

 

[seville009]

Can you just use the blower going downhill, then just back up (or drive forward) back to the top without blowing going uphill? Or just take maybe 1/4 bite if you snowblow going uphill.

either that or gain 200 pounds........

 

[RoyJackson]

Can you just use the blower going downhill, then just back up (or drive forward) back to the top without blowing going uphill? Or just take maybe 1/4 bite if you snowblow going uphill.

either that or gain 200 pounds........

Just do what works best for you...

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

me thinks you will struggle no matter what you do. 1,000# pushing a 47" snowblower is asking alot unless light and fluffy snow.

I would try the tire chains first and blow downhill only. Cheap and easy first step. Putting them on-off will become really easy after a little experience. 6' long 4x4 as a lever and some blocks will be able to lift your machine off the ground so tires can be freely rotated and chains on-off with easy and quickly.

 

[TimberXX]

thats a good idea to lift the machine to put the chains on. Thats fair that i change my approach. Honestly, I was struggling getting up the driveway with the blower lifted!

 

[hube2]

I used to do my driveway with a similar machine. My driveway is a bit steeper than yours.

You need weight. The blower is heavy and puts a lot of weight on the front which reduces the traction of your rear wheels. You need to counterbalance that with nearly equal weight of the blower (100+#). I filled my tires 100%, that gave me +150 pounds on the rear. But then I really didn't care about what it did to my lawn.

You might consider wheel weights, they are 50# each for these machines.

You will likely need chains on those turf tires.

 

[oldnslo]

or break down and buy a X7 series 4 wheel drive. should use the same attachments and now the weight is on a drive axle.

 

[Farmer495]

I have a new to me Deere x730 (2wd, 1000 lbs), with a front 47 snowblower. I used it in about 5 inches if snow this weekend. It was ok on the flat, but my slight incline (3 ft rise over 15 ft) it was a mess.

I need three options (but are open to others):
1. Weight (I have no three point, and the Deere bracket is $172, plus $60 for every 42 pound weight)
2. Lower Tire Air Pressure (Free)
3. Rubber tire chains. I have pavers so metal chains wont work. $160, but i need to take them on and off for every storm.
4. fluid is tires wont work. I need to keep my ground pressure low for mowing.

Any consensus on which combo of these would work for me?

I like the four 42 lbs weights (168 lbs) and lower the tire pressure. Thoughts?

I'd try the weights and lower tire pressure.

I had a small homemade snow blade on a lawn tractors many years ago, I had factory wheel weights and tire chains, plus weights on the back and it was still iffy. Mind you it wasn't a 1000 lb lawn tractor.

 

[toolslinger]

Weight, weight, weight... I hate the price of adding weight, but, that's what works.

Nothing is going to replace real chains if you've got ice. I know, you don't want to hurt the pavers, so I'm not going to go too far down this road... My father thought the same thing when he put in the paver drive. After 1 year of it sucking, the chains went back on the JD 140 with its blower. The pavers are still there. The scratches fade. That machine is in the 750# range before the hunk of steel on the back, so it's probably close to 1000# now. Where it lives (Wayne, over in Passaic county), the only "hill" is the driveway apron, and ADA ramp at the corner. That sucked without chains, I can only imagine a real hill. (well, I can since our farm is on a mountain, but I haven't had the 140 out there yet) How about a middle ground with cable chains?

If you're looking at the rubber chains, why would you need to take them off between storms? I don't think they will tear up anything, and just give you a little bit bumpier ride on clear pavement. Still has to be smoother than real chains. (the big double ring chains I run on one of the PA tractors make for a very lumpy winter ride) This is a lawn tractor after all, not your commuter car.

Tire pressure can be a double edge thing... Dumping air will lower your ground pressure and tend to float you. That may work on some conditions, but with snow, you may need the tire to push down through to the pavement. I imagine you're going to need to experiment a little there. At least that's free...

Another option is getting a set of Ag tread tires for the winter, and having them loaded, then swap out in the spring. Obviously an expensive option, and you will still want weight to back them up. I have very good performance with ags and weight at my place in central Jersey with a Case 646 (also just 2WD). That's tipping the scale around 1500# with the weight, so a little heavier, but basically the same size machine. I generally don't slip too much on the hill, and the road is a pretty good slope.

 

[RjCorazza]

As you are aware, that blower out front is taking weight off of your only drive wheels. I would be figuring out how to add serious weight behind the rear axel, not necessarily expensive OEM stuff.

Lowering tire pressure isn't going to help if the full tread is already contacting the pavement. I also don't see rubber chains doing much on an already light rear end.