3 filters, 2 dip sticks?

[TMB1320]

Real new at this, so bear with me please. Looking over my NH 1320 HST I found 2 dip sticks and 3 screw on oil filters. The online NH parts illustration (decent) show the hydraulic piping for the HST model has 2 filters
In the circuit. I'd like that explained, please, and where do you add the hydraulic oil. The rubber cap on
Top of the lift arm box reveals no oil on a 10 inch screwdriver, very deep in there. Isn't that the hydraulic reservoir that I read about.?

Also would like to know the best and never brands, weights, types of hydraulic oil to use in the little fella,
Especially this winter. Thanks a bunch guys.

 

[RickB]

Engine oil filter mounts horizontally to the RH side of the engine block near the fuel filter. Engine oil dipstick is nearby. Engine oil fil is in the engine valve cover. Hydrostatic charge filter mounts vertically to a remote filter head on the LH engine side. Hydraulic suction filter is at the Right rear of the chassis just ahead of the rear axle. Hydraulic/transmission dipstick is located in the transmission cover. You have located the hydraulic fill point in rear of the rockshaft housing.

You can go here for an operator's manual:
Choose Items
Part Number 42132010 is available for $20 plus shipping in hardcover or $18 for pdf download.

There is a dedicated cold weather hydrostatic filter (SBA340500980 I believe) that may be beneficial for you to use up there and you should use New Holland 134D hydraulic oil in that transmission, or if you wish, some other oils meet the 134 specification.

 

[TMB1320]

Very well, TY.
If you read my into thread you'll know why I'm in holding pattern for the manual.

I suppose the manual details why there 2 filters plumbed into the circulation.
The parts illustration isn't really to good at showing flow, and why.
I guess the oil is working in so many places, should want to catch debris
from the local source of friction. I'm I on the right track?

I'll visit the parts page again as I don't recall seeing a cold weather filter part number.
Have to check to see what's on it. My luck lately, you typo-ed and the number you gave has a
Check valve the wrong way:confused3: could you maybe provide a link?
While I have you on the line, since the oil rad is well above where the dipstick full line is,
should it be checked while running, like a car?
Thanks again.

 

[RickB]

Very well, TY.
If you read my into thread you'll know why I'm in holding pattern for the manual.

I suppose the manual details why there 2 filters plumbed into the circulation.
The parts illustration isn't really to good at showing flow, and why.
I guess the oil is working in so many places, should want to catch debris
from the local source of friction. I'm I on the right track?

I'll visit the parts page again as I don't recall seeing a cold weather filter part number.
Have to check to see what's on it. My luck lately, you typo-ed and the number you gave has a
Check valve the wrong way:confused3: could you maybe provide a link?
While I have you on the line, since the oil rad is well above where the dipstick full line is,
should it be checked while running, like a car?
Thanks again.

Check all fluids with the engine off.
I have no idea why you are in a "holding pattern" for a manual other than the typical allergy used tractor buyers have regarding useful information.
The manual will cost you less than any single one of five of the seven service filters on the tractor.

 

[TMB1320]

Into=intro

Learning curve

Signing off now , TY over and out

 

[WilliamBos]

Check all fluids with the engine off.
I have no idea why you are in a "holding pattern" for a manual other than the typical allergy used tractor buyers have regarding useful information.

Funny, but I bet you see this often? I keep the manuals long after the tractor is gone, that way I will remember what I have owned.

Service manuals are first thing purchased after tractor. Well worth the expense.

 

[barbqranch]

Also, I don't know if it applies to your model tractor, but on some of them, if you add the engine oil too quickly it overflows into the air intake and just about ruins your engine when the piston hits the oil where the air should be. I believe if you add the oil a quart at a time and give it a minute or so between them you will be fine.

 

[TMB1320]

Back in 1980 the was a glut of new '79s car dealers had, and the 80 were already available.
The government allowed selling the '79s NO SALES TAX. I bought a new Buick, and added a service manual on the purchase. All 600 or so pages, big city telephone book size. Had the car about 5
years and never figured out where the coolant was going; had to put in 1 or 2 litres on oil changes.
A rod bearing went away, and with service manual in hand proceeded to pull the engine, and go through
engine. The engine was on the chain fall when the mystery coolant leak was solved. A very old and rusty crack from the right rear cylinder water jacket right to the rear main bearing housing. Junk is
All I got hanging on the chain. Put the service back on the shelf where it still sits today, a bought a
used Olds engine. Sold the Buick shortly after. BTW it was canary yellow with tan interior.

Just got finished online order owners manual for 1320, and operators man for the 836GS SB. DONE

 

[TMB1320]

The DMC page showed it shipped by DHL mail on the 5 Sept. I emailed
the DMC last Friday asking the whereabouts of my manuals as they didn't
post a tracking number. I got the brush off, DHL cheap, and "very slow" they said.
When asked if "nothing" was all they could do, "yes" she replied, and supplied where they were
shipped from, and wished me luck. Never did get a reply for asking the name of their DHL rep.

Today is 13 days. Good grief....

 

[TMB1320]

Finally got the manuals. Found I had a another range of gears;"H" portion of decal was meticulously scrapped off by the penitentiary admins, and a bolt inserted nutted and welded. It's a speed demon at a
lightning 20 plus kilometres an hour.

I'm a little perplexed over the $90 winter hyd-oil filter. From what I read, it's a builtin bypass that opens
when the pressure differential across in-out ports is above a set level. I can't find the article for specific pressure, but an alternative I thought would be a heater in the right spot would eliminate the need for the special "winter" filter. Why they didnt design a screw on adapter e/w bypass valve is beyond me.

Just where should the heat be applied to get to most bang for the buck? On the filter, the diff, the tranny?
All 3. Anybody take apart one of this exotic filters yet to make an adapter with bypass?