3 PH splitter questions

[atlkep1]

I am looking into getting a log splitter and am considering a 3 PH one, but have some questions that I hope I can get answered here.

I'll start by saying that I have a Kioti DK40SE with 2 factory remotes installed (running top-n-tilt with them). I also pretty much know nothing about hydraulics.

1. I am assuming that to use a 3 PH splitter, I simply disconnect one set of remotes and hook the splitter up.
2. Does it matter which line goes to which connection on the tractor?
3. I keep reading about people having to "bungee the tractor control" in some direction. Both of my controls will lock into place when pushed all the way in either direction. Is this accomplishing the same thing as the bungee?? Or will I still have to do the bungee thing??
4. If I get a used splitter, there will probably be fluid in the cylinder from the previous owner. I'm thinking that I should clear this fluid from the cylinder before hooking my tractor up to it. If that is correct, then how do I go about clearing the cylinder of the old fluid?

Thanx for your help with this,

Keith

 

[murphy1244]

1. yes

2.Use either set A or B don't matter.

3.If it locks in your good.

4. I wouldn't worry about it myself as it won't hold much.

 

[ovrszd]

I concur with Murph's answers.

Next issue would be speed. If you are a hurried type, you'll hate running your splitter off your tractor, it'll be slowwww. If you are a very patient type and got all day, go for it.

Alternative is self standing splitter or PTO pump for 3pt splitter. Both options are more expensive.

 

[/pine]

FWIW...I've flushed used cylinders by using a schrader valve necked up to fit the cylinder ports (some are SAE/ORB)...along with a bleed line...

....then (if the rod is extracted) fill the rear port with clean fluid and attach the schrader valve (finger tight is enough) and the bleed line with catch pan on the other port...then using a bicycle pump add enough air to extend the cylinder...then reverse the same with the front port...continue the process until it is bleeding clear, clean fluid...

 

[Rod in Forfar]

Murph and Ovrszd have provided good advice.

One advantage of a 3 pt hitch splitter might have to do with work height. It's pretty adjustable when the splitter is hooked to the back of a tractor, so you can match the height to what you're lifting. As well, it's easy to extricate the splitter from a random pile of split wood to move it. Occasionally I have lowered my unit to the ground in order to roll a large block onto it, but not often. On more than one occasion, however, I have suspended a series of large maple blocks from the loader (second tractor) by a logging chain wrapped around them in order to take advantage of the splitter's power. (You don't have to drive the ram in far enough to hit the chain.)

A friend tells me that with hickory he prefers his axe as it is faster than a splitter. That may well be, but for curly elm or Manitoba maple it's hard to beat hydraulic power. To stay in good form I use the splitter for hickory, as well.

 

[J_J]

I am looking into getting a log splitter and am considering a 3 PH one, but have some questions that I hope I can get answered here.

I'll start by saying that I have a Kioti DK40SE with 2 factory remotes installed (running top-n-tilt with them). I also pretty much know nothing about hydraulics.

1. I am assuming that to use a 3 PH splitter, I simply disconnect one set of remotes and hook the splitter up.
2. Does it matter which line goes to which connection on the tractor?
3. I keep reading about people having to "bungee the tractor control" in some direction. Both of my controls will lock into place when pushed all the way in either direction. Is this accomplishing the same thing as the bungee?? Or will I still have to do the bungee thing??
4. If I get a used splitter, there will probably be fluid in the cylinder from the previous owner. I'm thinking that I should clear this fluid from the cylinder before hooking my tractor up to it. If that is correct, then how do I go about clearing the cylinder of the old fluid?

Thanx for your help with this,

Keith

Hydraulics:
Valves: 1 or 2
Total flow: 16.8 gpm [63.6 lpm]

Steering probably takes about 4 GPM, so you should have enough flow for a descent splitting cycle.

If your valve has detents, use whatever lever position that will send flow to the log splitter IN port, and the return hose can use the the other work port QD or run the log splitter OUT hose to tank. No bungee required.

If you don't like the fluid in the splitter, and the cyl is retracted, then connect the IN hose and run the splitter cyl rod end into a bucket and extend the cyl, and most of the log splitter fluid will be pushed out of the cyl, and that should be good enough to start splitting. .

 

[atlkep1]

Thanx, guys!! That's the information I needed.

I will include the 3PH splitters in my search.

Keith

 

[J_J]

Once you fill the cyl, check your tractor fluid level.

 

[Mr Bitz]

There is such little fluid in cylinders that I wouldn't worry about the fluid left in there, unless it's a huge cylinder.. I have a 3pt log splitter and it works great adjusting to the right height for me is a great feature. I don't have an auxillary valve on my tractor other than the loader valve so I just ran hoses off of my existing hose out on my loader valve and ran a hose back with mail and female couplers to hook together being the system is an open center system and back to the inlet to the 3 point if that makes any sense... Whatever you do will work great..

 

[J_J]

The volume of fluid in a 4 in bore , 24 in cyl is 1.31 gal

--------------------------5 ------------------------2.04 gal