3-Point Hitch 3 point hitch adjustment

[Anonymous Poster]

After finally getting my electrical problem straightened out today, I drove the tractor around still trying just to get a feel for how it operates. So far I have operated the tractor approximately 2 hours so I am definitely still learning.

I was pulling my finish mower but not operating the pto. I ran the tractor along the swale area at the front of my property. This swale is about 4 feet deep on an incline that is about 20 feet in width. I felt uncomfortable taking this sideways but don't believe this is too severe a slope. (please correct me if you think I am wrong)

Anyway, I noticed a vibration and looked at the rear of the tractor and saw that the lower arm of the three point was being hit by the rear tire on the high side. On a relatively level area, there was no contact and about 6'' of clearance on both sides. Does my 3 point need adjustment to prevent this contact or am I just never supposed to operate on a slope except up and down?. I hope adjustment is possible because up and down is not practical on the swale area.

I do have a manual I bought from Len Sheaffer and it says that side sway is controlled by check chains. Should this be lengthened to prevent movement to the outside? Or am I not understanding how this works?

I feel like I am back in elementary school. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Gary

 

[beenthere]

When you are on the level, and your mower is equally even between the rear wheels, snug up the check chains so they are as short as they can be. This will prevent the sideways sway of your 3pt arms so they cannot reach the tires.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

According to my manual,the check chains should be
adjusted to provide .04" movement from center
each direction.

Fuz1

 

[Whiskey]

Floridaboy:
Don't feel like you back in school, this is what this site is all about. Belive me when I first got my first tractor I pulled some silly stunts that I'm glad no one saw or I would never live them down (did I ever tell ya about the time my R.O.P.S and a low hanging limb meet, saw nutt'in but sky and had to pull an inch of seat cover out of my back side)anywho glad to have you as part of the group and ask any question you need some one here will know what the answer is, remember we all learned some where.

Whiskey

 

[kayssupply]

You had better get you a can of good old " PB Blaster" when you go to work on those turnbuckles. Almost everyone I ever tried to turn were froze. They never get adjusted over there since they only use one implement. The adjustable lift arm will be stuck just as bad. You might as well start soaking it while you mess with the turnbuckles. It will be much easier to break them loose if you take them off and put them in a vise.
I always put off doing this task till the last on all my tractors. It is messy and a pain.

 

[YanmarFever]

Florida boy
Its best if you remove the check chains first
and hit them with a wire brush to remove all the dried mud off of them.
Try & turn them after that,if they are still hard,hit them with pb blaster like Reed said.
Just take your time (no cussing) and do a good job on them,
remember they havent been done in 20 yrs.
Put them back on, & tighten them to your liking.
Tractor Ernie. <><

 

[kayssupply]

One more note. The cast turnbuckle can crack if you get too rough with it. Like Ernie said take your time. Don't get too upset if it does crack. It can be welded. So don't pitch it if it cracks. Once it cracks it will turn much easier though. Always a silver lining.

 

[Calpyro]

My favorite technique is to soak heavily rusted parts in Jasco Prep and Prime acid overnight. long pieces fit easily in a PVC pipe. While it is designed to prep metal for painting, it works well for removing rust. It also works well for nuts and bolts. Another advantage is the next day, it is also ready for paint.
Cameron

 

[stnickstoys]

I too use a 6' finish mower and find that if you tighten the sway chains too much you hear creaking and groaning when you lift like the tractor is struggling against the 3 pt hitch geometry. I would suggest raising the mower on a flat spot just so the wheels are off the ground, so the mower sways back and forth easily. Once you get the turnbuckles loosened up so they move easily sway the mower back and forth to find center of travel and to make sure your PTO driveline stays as straight as possible. Once you have it centered on the tractor tighten each turnbuckle a little at a time to take up the sway keeping the mower centered. I figure I have about 4" of slack either way before tightening. I take that up with the turnbuckles until its down to about an inch either way. That allows for mower movement when striking obstacles but wont force the mower into the tires. If you take all of the slack out all of the force of an obstacle strike is transferred directly to the tractor and could break some of the 3pt mounting equipment. Hope that answers your adjustment questions. Happy Mowing
Nick

 

[DavesTractor]

I think the turnbuckles may actually be forged. I broke one by being impatient and it welded up too nicely for cast iron. I generally take the turnbuckles off and throw them in the bottom of the parts washer overnight. I use diesel and kerosene for my solvent and it loosens things up fairly well.