Rear Blade 3 Point Hitch and Rear Blade Questions

TMcD_in_MI · Nov 14, 2004

See if this makes any sense to anybody. When you rotate the blade to angle it, it pivots around an axis. If this axis is dead plumb, then you can change the angle and still keep the blade parallel to the ground.

So if you can adjust the top link and the 3 point hitch to make the axis plumb while the blade is on the ground, you should be able to set any angle you want without one end digging in or lifting up. True?

Maybe you could hold a small level vertically on two sides of the pivot to check for plumb and get your adjustments figured out

Tom in Michigan

TobyH · Nov 15, 2004

That's the technical explanation of my post above!

TMcD_in_MI · Nov 15, 2004

( That's the technical explanation of my post above! )

I read your post again and you're totally right. I think your method for adjusting the links is probably a lot better than my suggestion for using a level.

Tom in Mich

rambler · Nov 19, 2004

( ( That's the technical explanation of my post above! )

I read your post again and you're totally right. I think your method for adjusting the links is probably a lot better than my suggestion for using a level.

Tom in Mich
)

Both are right, one is textbook, one is out in the field modification... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

--->Paul

cdgilbert · Jan 24, 2005

KUDOs to TobyH! I have been having fits trying to get my rear blade, a 5' Frontier to plow snow without gouging my gravel driveway. I installed skid shoes and then had to elevate them 2" below the moldboard in order to keep the blade from jitterbugging on the stones. After adjusting the blade using your method, I was able to lower the skid shoes to 1/2" below the board and voila, I can now plow snow right down to the gravel bed.

Thanks,
Cal