3 point hydraulic downforce on Deere 4066R

[plowhog]

Still evaluating a 50-60hp tractor choice. Along with regular mowing and a one-time cleaning up a forestry mess, I need to install a lot of posts and fencing for horses.

John Deere advertises their model 4066R has an optional hydraulic downforce kit, which supposedly assists digging post holes or using implements that drag. Compared to models with no such capability, is this a significant difference, a marketing gimmick, or somewhere in the middle? I've heard of others using weights on their posthole digger so I presume there must be some value compared to other tractors without this?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Still evaluating a 50-60hp tractor choice. Along with regular mowing and a one-time cleaning up a forestry mess, I need to install a lot of posts and fencing for horses.

John Deere advertises their model 4066R has an optional hydraulic downforce kit, which supposedly assists digging post holes or using implements that drag. Compared to models with no such capability, is this a significant difference, a marketing gimmick, or somewhere in the middle? I've heard of others using weights on their posthole digger so I presume there must be some value compared to other tractors without this?

Getting the 3pt down force kit eliminates the possibility of getting top & tilt cylinders supposedly,:confused3: from JD anyway. If you only need the down force for drilling holes, get a down force kit directly for the PHD. Puts just as much down force (500lbs) and is hundreds of $$$ less.

Putting down force on any implement is taking weight off of the rear and transferring it to the front axle. If you are comfortable with that and won't be getting a top & tilt set, go for it. If you plan on doing very much grading, then it seems foolish to not have a top & tilt set. Also by putting down force on a mid or light duty implement increases the possibility of damaging that implement. You would then be exerting HD stresses on an implement that simply is not designed for those additional stresses. If you purchase the proper HD implement, then most likely you don't really need that additional down pressure anyway.

Just my :2cents:

 

[jeff9366]

If you purchase the proper HD implement, you don't need that additional down pressure.

~~ X 2 ~~

 

[jenkinsph]

I would pass on the down force kit. I would go for the extra hydraulics and get all of the valve circuits I could.

As Brian suggests get a down force kit for the phd, and plug it into one of these add on remotes.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I wouldn't want to use downforce on anything other than a PHD, and you can get PHDs with a downforce attachment.

 

[jeff9366]

Newton's Law: For every action there in an equal and opposite reaction.

 

[TSO]

Here in Michigan, I've drilled hundreds of holes on different properties, and have never once needed down pressure on a PHD. The first PHD I used was a hand me down with an extremely dull tip, and it was a challenge to get into the ground ... Until I stopped at TSC and grabbed a new drill tip (the one on there was worn to a nub). Woah Nelly, since then, the drill races into the ground. Occasionally I'll hit rocks and gingerly work the rest of the way down the hole so I don't break shear pins...

I guess it depends on your ground composition... But at least around here, down pressure would be completely unnecessary.

 

[sdef]

Depends upon the type of ground you have whether PHD down force is helpful. I have used a TSC PHD and own an ETA (Everything Attachments) mid level PHD that is heavier than the TSC unit. At a friend's farm that has sandy loam soil, I can drill a 12" hole quickly and move on to the next one. It takes more time to reposition the tractor than to drill the hole.

However, at my place where the soil is rocky and very heavy clay, more often than not I need a lot of down force, which I do not have, and have broken the spiral tip on the auger once. Drilling 9" holes with a good, HD auger is a trying experience that takes several hours of: on the tractor and drill for a couple inches- four to six inches if I am lucky, then off the tractor and use the 15# digging bar and 3" sledge- then repeat numerous times. In the end my 9" hole for 6 x 6 posts ends up being MUCH larger in diameter (24"+) and require 3/4 bag of gravel and 700# of concrete.

I would imagine your tasks will be easier as my place is an anomaly for most folks.