30 amp system fuse

[cmlands]

I have a 2005 Jinma 284 with 200 hours on it. It's been used mostly for landscaping type work. It's not been uncommon that the 30 amp fuse blows after I warm the glow plugs, just as I start the engine. When I say not uncommon, probably once every 20 cold starts. In the past I've just changed the fuse, try again, and it starts right up. Yesterday I blew my last 3 fuses and never did get it started. This really makes me want to take care of the problem I should have dealt with long ago. Any ides on what might be causing the problem, a short in the starter or something? Please respond in laymans terms if possible since I would definetely describe myself that way. Thank you.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

My first thoughts are;

The China fuses are not very good. I replace all of them prior to selling the tractor.

If the buss bar that connects the top of all the glow plug is touching metal... they will blow.

If the green wire that feeds the buss bar has a bad spot in the covering... that would also do it.

A bad glow plug could cause a fuse to blow

Sure there are more reasons .....

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[greg_g]

Replacement glow plugs are cheap, but I cleaned mine several times before actually replacing them. The resistance can change when they get carboned up. When you remove them though, be very observant of the little copper sealing washer. Make sure you get every one out when you remove, so that you don't stack washers when you reinstall cleaned or new glow plugs.

//greg//

 

[joerocker]

I had a fuse blowing problem once...different than yours but MAYBE related...

I had a loop of wire for the clutch safety switch that was between the switch and the clutch pedal. When I pushed the clutch in to start the tractor the wire got pinched between them and cut open, shorting out. It blew the fuse EVERY TIME I tried to start it. Took me 3 fuses before I noticed it.

 

[fishmasterdan]

I have a 06 284 with 60 hrs on it. I have had problems with that same fuse. I went down to the local Napa store and got one of there recommended fuse's and it hasnt blown since. I never looked to see what it was but it works fine. As stated before the fuses that come with the tractor are JUNK.
Also I found a problem at the crappy plug that connects the wiring harness to the fuse block. The wires dont get a very good connection all the time. I took mine apart and fixed and loose wires I found (there was 2).

One thing to try is a 35a or 40a if you can find one. If it blows one of those you have an overcurrent problem somwhere.

I will say that I LOVE my tractor so far. It has had a few minor issues but overall it has been a great tractor.

 

[DieselPower]

After checking the system I would pitch the fuses in the trash and install some circuit breakers. They fit directly in place of a fuse but are automatic resetting. Should be able to pick up fuse style circuit breakers at any heavy truck dealer or repair facility.

 

[BobRip]

There is something about an automatically resetting circuit breaker that scares me. I have nothing against circuit breakers, but use a manually resetting one. Less chance of fire that way.

 

[bjmad]

I had a similar problem. I found that below the clutch on my Farm Pro 3010 there is a connector and it came apart. I reattached it and it replaced the fuse. It worked fine. I now periodically check to make sure it is still connected. You probably have a pinched wire or something somewhere.

 

[cmlands]

Thanks for all the responses, I'll hopefully be able to get a chance to look at it today. Like Fishmasterdan, I must say this tractor has been excellent, very happy with my purchase. Hopefully, once this problem is taken care of, I can get on with the workat hand. Would it be possible for someone to put in a link to the type of circuit brekers that they have put in these tractors? Thanks again.

Bruce

 

[RonMar]

I would not increase the fuse size... You might do damage to other parts of the system such as the wireing, switch contacts or fuse holders that are currently working fine and rated for the current the designated fuse can provide.

Is it blowing the main 30A system fuse, or the 30A glowplug fuse? I would think with a glowplug problem it would blow the 30A "preheat" fuse.

It is possible that you have a bad switch or a bad starter solenoid drawing excessive current. I just measured the old switch I have which was delivered with a problem with the ON position, but Heat and Start positions worked fine. On that switch, the heat contact(pin 1-3) opens just before the start contact(1-4) closes but they are close together. It appears that the intent with the stock switch was to shut off the preheat current before engaging the starter. With the preheat fuse removed, how much of a current draw do you see on the instrunment panel amp gauge while cranking the engine(this would be the draw from the starter solenoid). With preheat fuse removed, my 284 shows a current draw of about 15 amps while cranking. How long are you holding it in preheat before you crank the engine IE: what is the amp gauge reading after 15 seconds or so of preheat?

How quickly are you turning the key from the Heat to start position? These switches are not the most precise. If yours was keeping the preheat contact closed when the Start contact closed, the combined 40+ amps could be blowing your main 30A fuse.

The longer you preheat, the less current the glowplugs draw as they warm up. On mine after about 15+ seconds of heat, the amp gauge is up around 20 amps(but I live in a relitively mild climate). A short preheat combined with a slow turn of the switch from Heat to Start could be causing the fuse to blow.

I have heard that some other switches such as the ford switch that some have retrofitted to these tractors keeps the heat contact closed while the engine cranks. I have not heard of any problems with blowing the main fuse from the combined load of glowplug and starter when using the ford switch, but I have not made this modification and do not know how many have.