301 won't stay running

[Fatherj]

I just bought a John Deere 301-T loader tractor with a 3 cylinder diesel engine. It has been sitting outside and not been started for the last 5years. Today I put in new batteries, turned it over and it started right away. Unfortunately it slowly died after about 30 seconds. It acted like it was throttling down until it died. It is getting air, and I checked the fuel filter and water separator, and bled the air out I'd them. I also cracked the fuel line going into the injector pump and there is good fuel volume and pressure going into the injector pump. After the first time starting it, it would start again but it wouldn't run as long. If it sits for a short time ( 1 minute) it will start and then die. If it sits for a longer time (1hour) it will run for a short time (10 seconds). Does anyone have any thought on this?
John

 

[rsewill]

Perhaps plugged line at the outlet from the tank. It sucks fuel until it sucks enough crud to plug the outlet. Then when it sits the crud floats around a bit and lets a bit of fuel through. Could also be doing something similar in the filter. Clean out your fuel system.

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds as if the check ball fitting(parts key#5 in RH pic.) is plugged from governor drive debris that the fuel return attaches to inj pump. Or possibly the strainer(parts key #8 in LH pic.) is stopped up.

 

[Fatherj]

Thanks, it was the check valve on the top of the injector pump. It was filled with crud and stuck. I pulled off the stock filter and it was in pretty bad shape. I replaced it and blew out all do the lines to the injector. However it still plugs up, so I took off the check valve and ran in without it for a while. You could see small particles of what appears to be the old filter coming out. After a while of running without the check valve the particles coming out have greatly reduced. When I put the valve back in, it ran for a lot longer, but still plugged up. I am going to run it without the valve again today in the hopes of getting the pump totally flushed out. When I get that done, do you think I will have to replace the injectors? Is there a way to clean them?

 

[Harry in Ky]

The "crud" you found did not enter the pump through the filters. If you have a DB series roosa master, which I believe it is, the material is coming from deteriorating pump componants, and the only true solution is a pump rebuild.

 

[Tx Jim]

Fatherj
I agree with Harry that the drive ring in the inj pump has deteriorated and needs to be replaced. Injectors should be ok but it wouldn't hurt to pressure test them.

 

[atschirner]

When the sulfur was removed from diesel fuel it was hard on that phenolic part in the DB series pumps. That basket is part of the governor if I remember all of the details. I also had a number of shaft seals start to leak at the same time. These older pumps needed the lubricity the sulfur provided. A rebuild is in your near future.

 

[Fatherj]

Great, is a rebuild as expensive as it sounds?

 

[Fatherj]

The crud has stopped coming out of the pump and the tractor runs fine when I take out the check valve. I think with all the cleaning and blowing out of the check valve that I've done, it now moves too freely.

 

[Harry in Ky]

If the head and rotor will pass muster, a rebuild should run about $550 to$650 at most pump shops.