3016/3616 Hard starting/ glow plugs failing.

[Jabonee]

This is a FYI post to those that have a 3016 or 3616. Some of these units have been experiencing repeated failures of the glow plugs. It has been discovered that it is due to the glow timer being back fed through the fuel solenoid. The repair is a simple diode added to the wiring harness. Basically the glow timer is getting enough power to trip the glow circuit but will not illuminate the glow plug lamp. :shocked:

 

[kodiakjoey]

Can you tell me which wire and what kind of diode is needed. I have to use a wire hooked to the battery to heat my plugs up. I have been usuing it to much to drop it off at the dealer to have it checked out.

 

[spursjingles]

Just a comment regarding starting 3616 hst. I decided to check for air leaks and everything was tight until I got to the fuel bowl. I was looking for a priming pump which my mf135 has. As i touched it the **** thing was all loose. It has only 1 bolt that holds it in place. I tightened it and made a world of difference. I still think it needs an o-ring or something, a lot quicker to start just have been using it to much to stop and check. I will look at again after i'm done with this project. I had thought it was the glow plugs at first

 

[JerryK]

[ 3016 would normally start fine this time of the year even without glow plugs ]

 

[spursjingles]

It was durring the winter when I found the problem.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[ronchp]

Well Jabonee, looks like you are correct about getting voltage on the glow plug circuit. Any more info on where and how to install that diode?

I pulled the glow plugs on my 3616 today and they are shot. I was happy that they came out ok. I checked the voltage on the wiring going to the glow plugs. With the key in the glow plug position it was 12.5 volts. With the engine running for around 30 minutes, I checked it twice again-one time the voltage was 14.5 and 13 when I checked it again. If they are getting continuous voltage, I can understand how they would fail early.

 

[BillC72]

I just went thru this same issue. With the help of the OP I was able to correct this issue and added a second dash light to see future failures. I bought a blocking diode for use on vehicle trailer lights, wired it into the glow plug control box on the white/ orange wire. then added a light on the dash wired directly to the glow plug feed wire. Now I can see when the plugs are energized weather the gp light is on or not. My first set of plugs were fried because of the back feeding. The diode corrects that. And now when I turn the key on, the gp light illuminates as well as my added light. The factory light goes off and I start my 3616, then I see my added light flash four times over the next 30 seconds or so, then it stays off. If my diode was to fail, my added light will come on to tell me that the glow plugs are getting power. Not a very hard fix once you know which wire to use. Mahindra is really proud of the glow plugs, you don't want to keep buying these things.

 

[BillC72]

Bought this on Ebay. you only need one tho. These are pretty heavy duty diodes with a heavy heat sink for dissipation.
Thanks again Jabonee

 

[ronchp]

BillC72-Thanks for the info. Is the NGK controller mounted on the firewall the glow plug controller? If so, I only saw black and black/red wires so far, so I may have more research to do to identify the correct wire. But I only spent a couple minutes on it today. My day job is going to keep me tied up until after Christmas. My plan is once I get the glow plugs I ordered is to get them installed and as a no-tech temporary solution to simply keep the glow plug feeder wire unplugged unless I need them to start the engine when it is cold. That should keep from burning up the new plugs until I get this feedback issue fixed.

 

[BillC72]

The controller is mounted on the firewall with one 10mm bolt. You will want to remove the coolant tank and set it aside. There are two connectors on the controller. the one on the left is where you will find the white/orange wire. You want to install diode such that power can come from the controller. If you purchase the same diode I used....one side has two black leads, cap and stow one of them, cut the w/o wire, leaving plenty of room for a butt connector (slice the black covering to achieve this). Connect the other black diode lead to the w/o wire from the controller. Then connect the colored diode lead to the other side of the w/o wire. this will complete the fix. I am unsure of how long this diode should last, so I wired in my additional dash light so that I can SEE anytime the glow plugs are getting power. My dealer is in another state btw, and I did call to inquire about this issue before seeking help on this forum. The service tech I spoke with had never heard of this backfeeding issue and advised that my controller was probably bad. I'm merely guessing on this, But I presume there is a diode inside the NGK controller that fails, allowing the backfeed. I also presume that the diode I added is replacing that one inside? Not sure. I just know this works and it only cost me two set of glow plugs before I got the help I needed and like six bucks for the diode.