30E powershuttle

6sunset6 · Nov 26, 2008

Well , it is a little embarrassing. I do have a day job which is kind of demanding and a wife who likes to schedule weekends for other things than fixing tractors. In retrospect I guess I should have figured out myself. But I posted everything because I have seen other people trying to deal with similar issues , in fact there is a guy wrestling with something similar in another thread. I think if the story helps someone else then it's all worth it.

6sunset6 · Nov 30, 2008

This is getting more embarrassing. I took off the battery cable to measure it so I could get a bigger one ( wire size) Ordered one. couple of days later I had some time and took a look at the one I took off to see if I could see something wrong. The starter end eye wiggles on the cable . I guess instant heat after even a short crank and infiniate resistanc which meant no crank. That cable been in that machine for over 10 years . So that was the cranking issue I think.

6sunset6 · Dec 3, 2008

Final installment on this saga, Battery charge. I have 4 battery chargers and a load tester. Remember this is a new bat. But turns out very weak. For some reason my 2 amp charger , over night , worked well . Machine started up like the day it was new. $85 for the mechanic ( realy nice guy and now I have his PH) $34 for bat cable and $80 for bat. Lift pump was a rip off, I have to find a more economical source. I feel a lot better.
Next wait for spring and do the 13 gal transmission change. I am not sure I can catch 13 gal and I would rather do it outside. Frame with plastic liner for spill catch.
I have one other challange , the LH outrigger valve does not return to center. I think the spring is broken, I hope. This is an inside job next couple of weeks.

6sunset6 · Dec 6, 2008

An easy one The outrigger problem turned out to be a frozen shaft in the handle pivot. Took longer to get the boots back on than to fix the problem.
Now I am at oil changes
I guess no one else has a 30E more in Canada and overseas I think.

6sunset6 · Feb 6, 2009

Update om my MF
I put a battery minder on it in Dec. Walked by it yesterday and said to myself, Wonder if it will start? Around 10d out. Pulled off the battery minder and it started right up , less than 2 sec. Big relief.

6sunset6 · Apr 16, 2019

It now 2019 I still have the 30E . Don't use it much which is not good for tractors. With respect to the lift pump I finally put in an electric one with a 10u filter in front of it and it runs fine. While I was installing it I found a loose fitting in the suction line which was probably the cuse of running crappy for so long. I have one job to do and then I will sell it. SO I went to use it and no brakes. 2 master cylinders and 2 wheel cylinders. One of the master cylinders was frozen, the other seemed ok but I decided to replace both of them. I have not gotten the wheel cylinders out yet and I was worried about the brakes frozen. But the machine rolled ok. Parts will be here Sat
The lines seem to be ok. Does anyone know if these brakes are wet or dry? They are inside the rear axle house. They look like clutch plates. I think they must be wet . I am really hoping I don't need any other parts. They seem to be available but the rear assembly is really heavy.

6sunset6 · Apr 19, 2019

The brakes are wet thats good I think.
I got all my parts and had a slight issue. The master cylinders have a tape wrap says mineral oil. The slaves have a tape wrap that says DOT 4. So I called the place I got them he said they put a mineral oil label on them for shipping, not so hazardous Brake fluid is fine. . OK Then I looked up brake fluids oh boy.
The machine specs call for SAE 1703 which is the same as DOT 3. DOt 4 runs a little hotter temp. What ever you do do not mix them . Since this is a pretty simple system and no road speeds and I am reusing reservoir and all the tubing I will just stay with 1703.

6sunset6 · Apr 21, 2019

This is a saga. To get at the mounting bolts for the master cylinders you have to pull the lines but you cannot get a wrench on the tube nuts with the pedals in the way. Each line has splice just to the rear of the pedal assembly which is bolted to the tractor with 5 bolts.
So I had to pull the whole pedal assembly after disconnecting the 4 lines. I have to say it was easier working on the whole thing on the bench. The push rods on the new cylinders had the wrong thread for the clevis attaching to the pedals. Had to swap rods old to new.
Then the slave cylinders. The old cylinders were definitely frozen at collapsed position, that's why no brakes. New parts fit.
Each pedal and each slave had a return spring that I was really struggled to take off and then struggled to get back on but got it down.
Got everything hooked up and bled one side. Every thing moves as it should. Need another pair of hands to push the pedal to bleed the other side. Lock the clevis' and adjust the brakes and put all the covers back on. Should be good to go. Someone told me the other day I have a love hate relationship with this machine. I would take pictures bit I get pretty dirty doing this stuff. One more note everything came apart easy no heat and some penetrating oil. I think because it has never seen salt.