3225 leak

vdisalvo · Jun 28, 2006

That's good news. I give you credit for diving in there and attempting what I did not feel confident enough in tackling. Happy mowing! Not only did you fix it, but you are now intimately familiar with your tractor. Good luck.

thunderbirl · Jan 19, 2008

Hi,

I'm going to have to do the same thing on my 3225. Having the documentation in this thread about what was done and what the problems were was really nice. I've already benefitted before I've even picked up a wrench.

On advice of the dealer, I've ordered all the inner and outer bearings, both #5 and #6 today. The dealer has gaskets in stock. I'm going to start taking it apart tomorrow. I'm hoping for parts on Thursday and will reassemble next weekend.

The service department suggested that it would take about 3-4 hours of their time once they had clear access to the transmission. Since I have a three point hitch, that would add a couple hours extra.

My reason for writing is that I wanted to know how the disassembly of the differential went. Do all the gears and stuff just come apart politely or is there a tendency for spring loaded bits to fly about?

If you have any additional advice for doing this, I'd appreciate hearing it befor I start!

Again, great post.

Steve MacLeod
near Rochester, NY

BoobyTrap · Jan 19, 2008

Sounds like a malfunction of the hammerphone, or perhaps the leak is from a loose 7 1 0 cap.

BoobyTrap · Jan 19, 2008

just havin' fun, but I did like the part about knowing your tractor more intimitately.

thunderbirl · Jan 21, 2008

I've got to rebuild my transaxle, too. I've opened it up, got it drained and have seen the essence of what I've got to do. Having seen the future, I've got a couple questions and could really use some help.

If you look at the diagram below,

Link to transaxle diagram

What I don't get is what holds the axles in place.

Is the axle caught between #5 and #6 by being a larger diameter between them and then it steps down inside #5 and outside of #6? If so, then I can see that I need to remove #30 and #11 to pull #6 off the threaded end of the shaft. #5 would come off the "inside" end. Is this right?

(In addition to replacing the usual leaking block #5, I need to replace #6 as well because one of those seals is torn.)

Second question: How do I remove the "old" RTV?

Third question: Will a thermostatted electric space heater blowing on the repaired transaxle allow the RTV to set up OK? I'm planning on warming while I work, heating it for a day and then filling it. Is there a better choice for my unheated garage in winter? (Safer, cheaper, more effective, etc.)

Thanks for any help on this!

Steve MacLeod