336d Questions

[hawks000]

I have a yanmar 336d I am trying to get running. I brought it with a spun bearing... I am trying to get it back running... I also have to pull one injector out as well.
1.I need advice on what are the torque specs for the head
2. I need to know the valve specs I thik it is .006?
3. I need to know how to get the fuel injector out. (I think mine is stuck in the head)
I am really wanting to finish my motor up this weekend so if someone could help me ASAP I'd be VERY greatful

 

[Domush]

I don't have service manual handy, but I know .006 is the valve clearance. The fuel injector can come out by cranking the engine with the retaining nuts loosened or by using a socket from the underside if the head is already off.

Check out my rebuild thread (part 3) for some inspiration.

 

[kenmac]

head bolts

per service manual

1st torque - 43 ft lbs

2nd torque - 87 ft lbs

final torque - 116 - 130 lbs

head assist bolts - 36 ft lbs


rocker shaft bolts - 36 ft lbs

 

[hawks000]

or by using a socket from the underside if the head is already off.

Check out my rebuild thread (part 3) for some inspiration.

THanks for your info...but could you explain the process.I mean I understand getting a socket just big enough to go through the hole and take a hammer and tap it out but... had a diesel mechnic friend come up and we took the head off(messed the NEW head gasket I just had installed ...that's another 65 bucks ). he advised that we'd mess the chamber (or whatever it was called) and it would cost about 350 to get it fixed. SO could you give me detailed instructions if you don't mind. before you take the socket you don't need to remove anything or any prep work? sorry for all the questions just cacn't afford any more $65-$350 screw ups lol:confused2:
THanks

 

[hawks000]

THanks that's exactly what I needed :thumbsup:

 

[Domush]

If I recall correctly, I removed mine using a 1/2" extension and a small sludge hammer. Spray it with some penetrant first. At worst you will put some dents in the nozzle. It is hard as a rock. You will kill your extension before you kill the nozzle.

Hoye sells a removal kit if you are paranoid. I didn't see a need, when caressing it with a sludge hammer works fine. You can always wait until the head is reinstalled and use the loosening and cranking trick. Don't know how reliable it is, so I leave it to you to decide.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using TractorByNet

 

[Gjamtrac]

hawks000 and Domush,
Yanmar published an update many years ago that .006" valve clearance was a misprint, it should be .008" cold.
They even had new decals at one time to put over top of the decals that came on the engines which had the misprint.

 

[Car Doc]

I read this as its an in frame rebuild yes/no? If its on a stand I can see it getting done properly however. The spun bearing is what has me scratching my head that and getting it running this weekend? Just saying the crank will need ground 99.99 % of the time. That and a new rod presuming its a rod and if not start praying for a miracle if its a main.

The injectors sit on top of a pre-chamber and I used a socket that just fit the chamber from the bottom and drove mine out after I cleaned all the dirt and rust out from around them at the outside. I didn't hurt anything was real easy. Remember spray oil is your friend let it sit a few days (or not) better to though if you have time to think ahead. good luck

 

[hawks000]

Cardoc - the tractor had a spun bearing when I purchased the tractor. I took the motor off the frame & purchased a rebuild kit Plus had to have the Crank turn .030. Plus had work done to the ROd. AS for hte injector Somehow befroe I got the tractor someone messed the top halp of hte injector up where hte fuel line wouldn't screw into the injector. I order a complete new injector from Hoye anf wanted to install the whol thing new. MY neighbor I had helping me decided to take it to a machine shop to get the old injector out while I was at work. THey said it took them 3 hours!! (and $150) had to press it out & had to press the new one back in. Not sure what hte was all about but.. ATleast it's in now. I am goign to try to install the head & everything tomorrow (Laboring on Labor Day LOL )
GJAMTRAC- thanks for the correction on this

 

[Car Doc]

Ok thanks hawks for clarifying that she should run like new doing the right way as you did good luck!

The injectors as you know sit in a "hole" where dirt and h2o can accumulate. They say these can be a bugger when they are really stuck in good after 30 years. I dont doubt it after seeing it for myself. I got mine out pretty easy (luckily) when I had my head surfaced.