3520 and trailering

   / 3520 and trailering #1  

HuskerInVA

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
143
Location
Loudoun County VA
Tractor
JD 3520, '71 Case 580CK TLB
I'm in the market for trailer to haul my 3520 and budget is a concern. 7000# dual axle trailers with 1 brake are relatively inexpensive, but is that enough for the tractor?

Estimates on weights:

3520: 2900 lb
300cx w/ 73 hd bucket: 1000
Large R4's filled: 800
7' RFM (heaviest 3pt I've got) 900
Chanes/Tie downs: 100

Total: 5700 lbs

1300 lbs left over for the trailer itself seems kind of light. Nothing long haul - primarily to the dealer, close relatives homes, etc.. figure 30 miles max.
 
   / 3520 and trailering #2  
The Rating of most trailers today include the weight of the trailer. So if your trailer weights more that 1300 LBS you are over loaded with your tractor. I would do a 10,000 LB trailer at the least. I tried to be cheap when purchasing mine but learned the hard way that this is where you don't want to be cheap.I bought a 18 foot 12K trailer and now my trailer is to short and makes it tight to load. Also get the dual brakes. In MD its state law that any trailer that weights 10,000 or over must have daul brakes.

Jim
 
   / 3520 and trailering #3  
I am also looking for a trailer for my 3520. with a fel and rear mower you will still hang over on an 18' trailer unless you make a cradle for the bucket to hang over the tongue. Also, as you add equipment your weight will increase. go for the heavier capacity trailers.

Remember, it is better to have brakes and not need them then to need them and not have them. Get brakes on both axles. You will be looking at a very small investment over the life of your trailer.
 
   / 3520 and trailering #4  
I trailer my 4500 frequently and I purchased a 12,200 GVWR leaving 10,000 for cargo. Granted the 18 foot deck tests your driving skills and level of patience. With the brakes on both axles, stopping is a breeze.
 
   / 3520 and trailering #5  
A lot of people get by with 7k gvw trailers. I typically use 5.5k as a safe working load. You WILL want rear support stands for loading. I used a buddy's 16' 7k unit (one that I sold him when I was still active trailer dealer) quite a bit until my 20' (actually 25') unit was built.

The thing you will find is that you will need around 20' to carry any implement on the rear with the loader still attached, especially a rear brush cutter. Anty shorter and you'll over hang and/or lose the ability to balance the load. As the trailer goes longer the frame needs to be beefed up. The 7k units typically do not do this and they flex a lot. My trailer has an empty weight rating of 3300# and that is aluminum...
 
   / 3520 and trailering #6  
Husker,

I'm also in Loudoun County. I bought a Hudson 10K trailer from Edgar Boeger in WV (less than an hour from Lovettsville). Cost me $2,000 about 5 years ago. Dual axle, dual brakes, 18 ft trailer. Trailer empty weight is 2,000 lbs, so net capability is 8,000 lbs. I love it, have towed to Grand Rapids, MI and back with near capacity load with no problems. I also use it frequently for my JD850 with FEL and attachments, which is about the same weight and size as your tractor. I use a 99 Chevy crewcab dually to tow with. All in all, very happy with this setup.

Joe Padavano
 
   / 3520 and trailering #7  
I should add that the running gear of a 10k GVW (pair of 5200# axles) can take more overload abuse than the 7k (pair of 3500#.
 
   / 3520 and trailering #8  
I bought an 18' 7700# trailer from Performance Trailer to drag my 4310 around. The trailer weighs 1800, so that gives me 5900 for everything else. I think it does fine with the load (tractor, FEL and MX5)
 

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