3PH Question

[Arcane]

I'm trying to attach and adjust a new LX4 cutter to my JD 4115. Basically, I can't get the cutter deck far enough away from the tractor.

The tractor came with a backhoe attached, so I removed that and installed the 3PH per the manual. I set the cutter attachments low, per the manual. Then I set the upper link arm for proper front to back cutting angle at the dropped position.

If I try to lift the cutter more than 2-3" from full drop, the front edge of the cutter hits the tractor rear tires squarely. Also, even in the dropped position, turning causes the outboard draft arm to rub on the inside of the tire. I think I can tighten the draft link turnbuckles to improve that, or I could widen the distance between the rear tires (which I don't want to do for storage reasons), but I think the first problem would remain.

Are the draft arms are too short? Is this JD's way of punishing me for not buying an imatch system? Anyone else come across this problem, or have a suggestion?

Thanks in advance for your help.

RK

 

[trlong]

Arcane,

Not sure I can help you at all but have a few questions, observations.

Do you have a digital camera so you could post some pictures? Is the LX4 recommended for the 4115. It seems odd it wouldn't work on any CAT-1 3PH, especially J.D.'s! Have you attached any other implements to the 3PH? Is is possible the draft arms are incorrect. I have attached several implements (not an LX4) to the 4115 and no implement has come close to touching the tires. Draft arms rubbing and leveling issues...yes, but corrected with snugging up turn buckles, and adjusting leveling arm, and upper link.

I think Mike (?) [RockyRidge (?)] has, or has had a 4115 and an LX3 or LX4...can't remember which TBN'er. I'd be surprised if some one with experience with the LX4 and, hopefully a 4115, doesn't provide some advise w/i 24 hours.

Pic's would help though. Good Luck.

Tom

P.S. It is more likely you would have toplink adjustment issues WITH an I-Match than w/o it. But, I do like my I-Match.

 

[Dutch445]

You actually may need to change your LX4 setup back to
the "high" settings for the lift points. You aren't running on a 2210 with low clearance, and if the cutter is set this way, it's closer to the tractor and may be why you are gettting an interference with the tires.
make sense? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like something is not mounted correctly on the rotary cutter.
Pics would be best if possible, or suggest you visit the dealer for some look at another setup, or the setup manual they use (may be in your manual as assembly instructions or viewable in the parts list).
I don't think not having the iMatch is the cause, nor do I think it isn't designed for your tractor.
Hopefully you can find the problem or post a pic.

PS There should be no sideway play to any extent that would allow the arms to hit the inside of your tires, IMO.

 

[RRacing]

On the 2210 you have run an I match to get enough length to run the LX4 cutter. Maybe its the same on your application?

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Jim

 

[Rayder]

I used to have a 2210. I ran an LX4 without the imatch and no problems whatsoever.

 

[RalphVa]

On my 4010 with the LX4, I had to move the pins to their lower position to shorten the top link. Otherwise, the top link was longer than the draft arms. Raising the draft arms then drove the rear of the LX4 into the ground rather than lifting it.

Don't think this is your problem, as using the upper or lower pin position doesn't greatly affect the distance from the rear tires. The LX4 is a tad closer using the lower pin positions. Using the lower pin position causes the top part of the assembly to swing towards the tractor and will therefore cause the lower part to come slightly closer. You might get some relief by using the upper pin positions; however, make sure your top link isn't longer than the draft arms then. One fix to this is to use a chain on the top link. Only use the (shortened) top link when you want to raise and transport the LX4. Actually, this is what I do on my LX4 even though I moved the pins to the lower positions in order to raise the LX4 (with top link at operating length) with the top link on.

I have had the draft arms rub agains the inside of the rear tires if I don't tighten the draft arm turnbuckles tightly. You have to get them straight on and not twisted to tighten them.

Ralph

 

[Arcane]

Good questions and suggestions, all. I'm away from the tractor now but will shoot and post some pics when I can.

Tom- The LX4 is spec'd for the 4115. I don't have any other attachments, so I can't say if its only a problem with the cutter. Would you be able to measure your draft link, center to center, and post it? I just have this feeling that the draft links I got are too short. I'll try to find the specs.

Dutch- I figured the 4115 was closer to a 2210 than a twenty series, so I opted for the low pin and brace mounts, but I've actually tried both, with little difference.

RR, Ray, and Ralph- I'll try cranking down the turnbuckles, moving the pins and braces to the upper position, and shortening the top link or using a chain.

My JD dealer mostly sells lawn tractors, and didn't spend any time with me when I bought the tractor. I ordered the cutter later, and it was left on my front lawn when I wasn't home. It didn't come with a top link pin. So, no help there.

I appreciate your guidance, and I'll revert next weekend.

RK

 

[trlong]

RK,

Darn, I had the 3PH on the 4115 last night to pull the grooming mower but took it off to put the BH back on. I should have taken a pic while it was on but am just now reading this.

Anyway, I have several meetings but, I'll take a few pic.'s of the 4115 draft arms with dimensions, when I get home. I'll try to post tonight.

Tom

 

[trlong]

RK,

Meetings over early. Got the following pic's. Sorry, sun was bright and the tape measure doesn't show up well.

This, 1st pic is straight line, center pin to pin, of the draft link. I call it as measuring 24". That square's with the manual as the rated lift of the 3PH (1150#) is at 24" behind the "link arms".

Tom

 

[trlong]

RK,

2nd Pic. 4" length from attachment pin end to 1st bend. the other end of the draft arm is the same 4".

Tom

 

[trlong]

RK,

3rd Pic. 19" center section of draft arm, between "bends".

 

[trlong]

Last pic...just incase there's something odd about the lift links they provided you. This is the fixed lift link. I measure 16", pin center to pin center.

Hope this helps. I could find no part numbers stamped on any of the arms /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Tom

 

[Arcane]

Tom:

That's really helpful, and I appreciate it.

The draft link lengths seem the same as mine. My top link is adjustable, but my recollection is that its shortest length is around 19" also. I'll be able to check the measurements when I'm with my tractor tomorrow.

I figure I just haven't set it all up right.

I noticed that you leave the links on the attchment. Does that make easier or harder to hook up to the tractor? Seems like it would save a few steps but could be more difficult to line everything up.

Thanks again.

RK

 

[trlong]

RK,

Hope they do help. Are you installing the draft arms on the tractor's link pins 1st (i.e. both draft arms closest to center) then the attached spacer (with turnbuckle) then the short spacer? I'm not sure that it would appreciably change the distance from the link pins to the mower, all that much but, when I look at my manual it is some times hard to tell from the pictures which component is supposed to go on first. Draft arms on first is the best fit, for me. Putting them in the position that would make them the closest together at the link pins on the tractor appears to be where the draft arms belong.

As for leaving the 3PH parts on the attachment, I've found that the "I-Match" makes for convenient storage for the 3PH. Hanging it off the RB, in the pic, is a matter of convenience and keeps the parts up off the ground (still no barn /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif). As for attaching, with the parts connected to the I-Match, it is pretty easy to line up and attach to the tractor. It still takes a bit of muscle power to move parts around and, I've been known to take a wooden or plastic head mallet to "persuade" parts to get to where they belong. I usually back up, slide one link pin in to attach a lower draft arm, lift arms, and top link, then, as needed, release the I-Match from the RB to attach the 2nd draft arm (this is where the mallet occasionally comes in /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif ). Seems to work for me. I used to take it all apart and hang the pieces in the shed before realizing I was wasting a lot of time when I could just leave it all hanging on the I-Match and RB, or Mower, or,...and only have to adjust the toplink for which ever 3PH implement I was going to use.

Let me know how it works out. Seems as though you must have some thing in the wrong place if your dimensions match mine.

Tom

 

[Arcane]

Tom, You got it, a setup issue. Same draft arms as yours. I had the sway hitch too far inboard and didn't get enough leverage. The ops manual photos and the lack of text leave something to be desired as far as where to put that spacer. Also, the turnbuckles in the ops manual photos are set all the way to one end. But after taking the sway away from the 3PH, I've got about 4" of clearance to the tire with the cutter dropped to 6.5, and 1.5" of clearance with the cutter raised to rockshaft 10. And the draft arms are no longer rubbing on the inside of the tire. I took photos, but kept getting them rejected for size, so they're in the TBN gallery now. I'm going to go tackle some brush.

Thanks again.

 

[trlong]

Arcane,

Glad you got on right now. I agree that the photos leave a GREAT DEAL to be desired. I had similar quandries the first time I put the parts on...which link and spacer goes where and how tight to bring in the turnbuckles, just to set it up before final adjustment. Guess it's a good learning experience, maybe /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

As for photos; If you run MS XP, you can open up "My Computer", go to the folder with the pic's, click on (single click) the pic you want to send. Mine has a menu on the left that has "E-mail this photo" (or something to that effect). If you click on it, it will ask if you want to minimize the photo (again, or something like that). If you say yes, it will shink it, open up your e-mail and attach it. You don't have to send it, just select the attached photo and save the smaller version. Usually will take a 1.3M file down to less than 100K. I save the pic's in a sub-folder named "Resized" and then select one of them when I want to post a pic. Learned this here from another TBN'er. Amazing all the info available here.

Happy mowing,

Tom