3PH root rake build ideas?

[Ed of all trades]

I have been doing a lot of earth moving lately and am looking to do more. I have a GC2400 sub compact tractor. Wondering if a 4 foot, 5 shank root rake would break up the soil enough to make it easy to scoop up with my loader. Any one use something like this for this purpose? Thinking of using box blade shanks on a square tube tool bar. Any info or ideas will be helpful, How to build and if it will work ect. Thanks Ed

 

[94BULLITT]

I have been doing a lot of earth moving lately and am looking to do more. I have a GC2400 sub compact tractor. Wondering if a 4 foot, 5 shank root rake would break up the soil enough to make it easy to scoop up with my loader. Any one use something like this for this purpose? Thinking of using box blade shanks on a square tube tool bar. Any info or ideas will be helpful, How to build and if it will work ect. Thanks Ed

Landpride makes something like that. You can even hook a rake or blade to the back of it. It should work for what you want to do. You may not be able to pull it with all 5 down at times.

SF25 Series Scarifiers | Land Pride

 

[Fallon]

Loaders are designed for loading & lifting, not heavy digging. You are on the right track though.

Personally I'd get a box blade. The scarfiers are designed to break up hard ground like you are wanting. The box blade will drag it into a pile & further break things up while dragging, leaving you a nice loose pile to pick up.

Set the scarfiers down for breaking stuff up or lift them for smoothing. Good versatile tool, more so than just some ripper teeth.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Thanks guys, I had given this thing up for dead. Fallon, I like your idea of a box blade. Now why didn't I think of that, it makes more sense than anything I was thinking. Ed.

 

[ishiboo]

Yeah... sounds like a perfect use for a box blade. IMO #1 implement for dirt/gravel/etc work

 

[Shield Arc]

One thing I don't like about the factory rippers, is they're to light. And won't dig in on hard ground. I built mine out of 5-inch square stock.

 

[jeff9366]

Box Blade rippers are designed to penetrate to the bottom of pot holes in composite roads. Perhaps a bit of brute force design. I have a Rollover Box Blade. (Photo #2) Rippers are easily replaced.

I have ordered what Dirt Dog calls an 'All Purpose Plow' and (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) calls a 'Field Cultivatior' which is the name I prefer.

Todays spring protected Field Cultivators are replicas of Harry Ferguson designs from about 1935. Every implement I have used which is a Harry Ferguson design has worked well.

Field Cultivators have spring protected parabolic shaped rippers which penetrate with less tractor power required. My use will be for removing sub-surface grape vine roots, wild rose corms and Smilax corms. I will review after it arrives and I can put it to work.

I ordered from Dirt Dog because I wanted 66" width with 5 rippers. ETA only has 60" width today.

So, you may consider ripper shape in your design.

Have you considered a Tooth Bar for your bucket, rather than a 3-Pt. implement? A Tooth Bar will make a BIG difference in the ability of your bucket to dig.

LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ement-vine-root-removal-woods.html?highlight=

 

[Fallon]

One thing I don't like about the factory rippers, is they're to light. And won't dig in on hard ground. I built mine out of 5-inch square stock.

Just as true if the OP goes with a box blade. Get one a hair wider than your rear tires & as heavy as you can afford & still lift on your 3pt. Especially if you are primarily going to use the scarfiers. You'll need all the weight you can to push them into hard ground.

A hydraulic toplink is a godsend when using a box blade. Tilt the box forward all the way to dig with the scarfiers. Tilt it back to smooth. All without messing with adjusting the scarfiers mounting depth. I cleaned up the driveway this weekend from winter mud, ruts & snowplow damage. Extending or retracting the toplink 1/4" maybe 1/2" was the difference between filling the box blade or emptying it. Just a touch of toplink made for great fine control with an excellent finish. Trying to lift the 3pt would have left huge speed bumps &lots of issues.

 

[BukitCase]

Wow Carl, til I opened your pix I was envisioning something made with parts from a scrapped out D10 Cat

Then I figured out it was your box beam that was 5" square :laughing:

good one, got me to look ... Steve

 

[Ed of all trades]

One thing I don't like about the factory rippers, is they're to light. And won't dig in on hard ground. I built mine out of 5-inch square stock.

That is what I had in mind in the beginning, have to think some more.