3PT Hitch lever adjustment

[woolyAcres]

The lever used to adjust the elevation of the 3PT hitch on my YM240 will rattle or drop down. I've tried, un-sucessfully, to adjust a couple different nuts on the shaft connecting the handle to the housing but I've only made things worse. Can anyone point me to the correct way to adjust this so the handle doesn't simply drift down. I've been leaving giant gouge marks in the drive way with my box blade as I drive along and suddenly find the box blade digging into the drive.

Thanks.

 

[winston1]

Note 59 through 62 here. You should have that assembly on your 240. THREE_POINT_CONTROL: Yanmar Tractor Parts

 

[careyo63]

63-67 on the Hoye Dia. Is an adjustment Knob and lock runner. In case you don't have it, you probably don't. The Adj. knob is out of sight on the other side of the Handle guide in my Pic.. Your handle Won't fall past the point you set it. Look hard at the pic. and mine is at the lowest point on the Handle guide. To get all the lift I can Esp. since I only use a Rear Scoop on my Ym2000. I removed the stops 69-72 and you can see the empty Holes for them on the Handle guide. High Side. You can move or put another Stop Knob setup 63-67 on the High side also. I just adjusted the Hyd. Stop to keep it from Maxing out and squealing by the adjustment Nuts 45-46. You can see them at the very bottom of the Pic. at the fender. After replacing the bushings to the handle guide my handle stays in place so I very rarely have to use my Lower Adj. Knob/Runner after replacing the Bushing.

 

[woolyAcres]

@winston1-

Thanks for the link. I hadn't even thought of looking at the exploded view on Hoye. Although my actual installation looks a bit different. I think I'm missing 58-62. I'm not certain my handle has the hole in it where the bolt (59) can pass through. I've been using the equivalent of 66 (just a wing nut with spring) to set the minimum position but it's a pain to fiddle that thing every time I want to change the elevation because where ever I put that wing/stopper is where the handle ends up.

I've attached a couple pictures which suggest my setup is slightly different.




Mine also looks different from careyo63. The thing I 'adjusted' that made life worse for me is the pair of nuts that are to the left of the bracket (26 in the Hoye image). I suppose these would correlate to 55/56 in the drawing but they don't match up exactly. Maybe I'll re-adjust those as well as the nut/washer combo out side the bracket, where 54 is in the image.

 

[winston1]

Looks like you have friction washers and locknut's on the shaft the lever works. Try loosening the locknut and snugging the inner nut up a bit to stiffen the action.

 

[California]

I went out and took a photo of mine. I wonder if they ever built two of these alike.

Note the upper limit is semi-permanent, lower limit is adjustable for mowing etc, and the spring keeps the lever where you put it.

From your photo you seem to be missing the spring and its bolt.

 

[California]

Looks like you have friction washers and locknut's on the shaft the lever works. Try loosening the locknut and snugging the inner nut up a bit to stiffen the action.

Hmmm. I read this after posting my photo. I think you're right.

 

[careyo63]

Drill a hole in the handle and add 57-62. Wow! it's different after looking harder.

 

[woolyAcres]

Looks like you have friction washers and locknut's on the shaft the lever works. Try loosening the locknut and snugging the inner nut up a bit to stiffen the action.

You know looking at those photos, I realize the adjustments I had made were on the nut and jamb nut closer to the center of the tractor. And that made things worse I think you right about the friction washers, the ones on the outside of the handle. I'll try adjusting those as you suggest. Thanks

 

[woolyAcres]

I went out and took a photo of mine. I wonder if they ever built two of these alike.

Note the upper limit is semi-permanent, lower limit is adjustable for mowing etc, and the spring keeps the lever where you put it.

From your photo you seem to be missing the spring and its bolt.

View attachment 460417

@California, thanks for the photo. I'm not even sure my handle has a hole in it! Weird.

 

[woolyAcres]

Drill a hole in the handle and add 57-62. Wow! it's different after looking harder.

If the friction washer adjustment winston suggested doesn't work I'll have to go this route. It got so bad after my adjustment that it's really hard to use. The fact that it got worse after I messed with it give me hope (foolishly?) that it could be adjusted back to how it was or better. If not, I'll have to get in there with a drill and add in 57-62.

Thanks

 

[careyo63]

I had to go out and start to get things ready for mowing season and took a look at my handle. When I first bought the 2000 my handle wouldn't stay in place either. And the reason you see a friction disk 58 in my pic. is I used Two. One on each side of the control plate 52. Not just the handle side of 52. It was such a Royal PITA I wanted to make sure it didn't move. It worked no doubt recalling it and a Cheap fix. I have never even had to Adj. them in over 8yrs. with no sign of wear. I still use my Set knob occasionally but that is only when I'm moving the 3pt up and down and don't want to go any lower than the point I set it.

 

[Djames55]

woolyAcres, I have the same setup as you do on my ym2000BD. Mine works as it should holds steady at all times.

 

[woolyAcres]

I adjusted the friction washers and jamb nuts on both sides of the handle today and it's holding up just fine. It's tighter than I'd like so I think I'll try adjusting it a bit further, but the good news is it can hold itself up. Thanks for the help.

 

[Neat 1500]

I adjusted the friction washers and jamb nuts on both sides of the handle today and it's holding up just fine. It's tighter than I'd like so I think I'll try adjusting it a bit further, but the good news is it can hold itself up. Thanks for the help.

I know it sound counter-productive but I tightened mine and put the ever so slightest smear of grease on the slide plate along the slot and it's been spot on for a few years now. It slides nicely and doesn't drop.

 

[woolyAcres]

@Neat. That's a good idea.

 

[careyo63]

I adjusted the friction washers and jamb nuts on both sides of the handle today and it's holding up just fine.

I'm Guessing you drilled a hole in the Handle and added 2 friction washers then? Mine was hard to move also at first also but I opted to just cleaning all the rust and debris off and it worked fine ever since.

 

[woolyAcres]

I'm Guessing you drilled a hole in the Handle and added 2 friction washers then? Mine was hard to move also at first also but I opted to just cleaning all the rust and debris off and it worked fine ever since.

No I didn't go that far. I simply tightened the "inner" nuts on both sides of the lever arm and than locked them in place with the "outer" jamb nuts. As Neat suggested, I might pull them off and grease them to get it to move more freely. The good part is that the friction is high enough to keep it in place.

 

[careyo63]

The reason I asked is I thought you already Adj. them but I removed it in a earlier post. Edited Irrelevant. Not being able to see the complete setup and still wondering why the return spring won't keep it from falling forward on the Hyd. Valve. It appears to be just one shaft to the Valve.