3pt Top Link chain

[RayIN]

It is surprising how much further I can twist and turn to the right, and do so for quite awhile.
Compared to the left I can easily rotate twice as far as the left side.

Ya, it's difficult to look over your left shoulder while operating the 3-pt controls for me, plus my new tractors ignition key is where my right knee turns it off when I look over my left shoulder.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Of course the real answer is a hydraulic top link. It allows me to adjust as I grade and is better than the chain because it allows me to control rather than just follow the surface.

gg

Ah, I use hydraulic top links so I basically forgot that there's another version.

I shouldn't have, since with the rear blade on the M6040 I have to use the stock link, because all three remotes are in use with that blade.

But since the top link can only be a certain length for the blade's pivot to stay horizontal, I'm fine with using the stock top link in that application.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ah, I use hydraulic top links so I basically forgot that there's another version.

I shouldn't have, since with the rear blade on the M6040 I have to use the stock link, because all three remotes are in use with that blade.

But since the top link can only be a certain length for the blade's pivot to stay horizontal, I'm fine with using the stock top link in that application.

Maybe instead of removing your hydraulic top link, simply disconnect it and bungee the hose ends up out of the way. Seems like that might be easier than swapping the whole setup each time?

Obviously, you are a candidate for adding some diverter-s.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Oh, it's no big deal to swap the links. Don't do it often anyway. Although, more often than the excellent side link I bought from you.

And I did run a diverter valve for a while, to operate the steering on the axle on my home grown Frankenblade - now a towable 3-way blade.

 

[California]

The A-frame at the front of my mower is rigid and will hit the Quick Hitch if the back of the mower raises up. I adjust the QH forward for 6 inches slack there, and use a chain to bridge that gap. The chain is so I can lift the mower for tight turns. And occasionally for lifting and backing into brush for a first, high, pass.

This 6 inches of slack is so I can cross a depression without the mower tailwheel bearing the weight of the back of the tractor.

 

[Fladogman]

A chain also works great on a landscape rake

 

[chim]

When I had my bush hog I used a chain. The frame had no provisions for slack. It was bought used, so maybe it was missing a part or two. Using a top link made the 'hog into a rigid triangle and put an incredible amount of force on the mounting if the tractor's rear wheels dipped into a depression and lifted the mower if the wheels were on a high spot.

 

[old and tired]

I rarely hook up the toplink to either the finishing mower or the bush hog. If there's a rock to hit, lifting the 3 point hitch gets it over any obstacle.

My 3 point hitch holds it's position quite well, no drop so no worries...

 

[John0829]

Lets remember the OP was asking about using a chain on NON mower or cutter applications.