3pth winch mount

[mainiac]

O.K., here is what I am doing to my Kubota B7500. I am in the process of building a winch mount for a mile marker 10.5k lb hydraulic winch. I am doing this mainly because my tractor is under powered (I feel) for a farming winch. 17hp at the pto. I am going to be using it for pulling logs up to the tote roads.

Here are my questions;

1) Should I 3pt hitch it and build the mount to use as a tractor brake too or should I put it on the front where the brush guard is and use the FEL as a tractor brake?

2) Should I use the fare lead or design without? I know that I will need to pull straight on, but even with a fair lead I would be pulling straight on.(afraid of pulling the tractor over.)

Thanks ahead of time for any help on this subject.
I have learned alot from this sight already.

Mainiac

 

[pat32rf]

I installed a 12v 8000lb winch and battery mounted on a receiver plug on the 3pth of my 4300JD. I couldn't visualize trying to use it on the FEL. I also have a chain hook beside the winch so I can sling and lift the logs to skid them once I get them out to level ground as I have seen a couple of lighter duty winches damaged by jerking on the cable while skidding. (shouldn't bother your Mile Marker)
I have on occasion had to run a sling to a tree to hold the tractor when on a hill but most times dropping the ballast box(also on the 3pth) will hold her steady. You don't want to ever use the whole 10,000lbs to haul on a log as neither the 3pth or the FEL would take the strain.If the log won't come, then re-rig using a snatch block to haul it clear of the obstical. You have a CUT not a skidder. (My last tractor was a 19hp Kubby....)

 

[Youare]

I have had a Farmi winch, the smallest one they made, on the back of my Kubota L3000DT. I would suggest you mount your winch as a 3PH unit that connects with the ground when in use.

When I had this winch on a Ford 8N I was able to break one of the 3PH lift arms when using the winch in the rasised position. The winch you have has a lot more pulling capacity than mine and you will break something if you use the full power of the winch without having some type of outrigger on the ground.

I think the front mount would only work well to pull the tractor out of a tight spot. I think using the winch on the front end to pull logs or heavy items would put a lot of strain on the front wheels and the loader arms if you use it as a brake.

As far as fairlead height the higher it is the better it will pull logs along the ground without them digging in and getting stuck on ground obstructions. The higher up it is the more likely you are to pull the tractor over backwards if mounted on the 3PH. I know this from experience I could pull my 8N's front end right off the ground with my Farmi winch, it's fairlead is about 5 feet off the ground.

As much as possible you want to pull in line with the tractor. I think 20 degrees each side of center is about the max. you want for side pull at least that is what works with my Farmi and Kubota setup.

I hope you have pictures to share when you have it finished.

Randy

 

[mainiac]

Thanks for the replies. I will be starting this project soon as I need to be the woods before the end of the month. I will post pictures as I get them. I have decided to 3 point hitch the winch. This will be an interesting project.

 

[vallyfarm]

As stated above, that winch will rip those 3-pt arms apart if you don't put an anchor plate to the ground to take the brunt of the pull. If you use the anchor plate the 3-pt arms will mostly be used for position. Otherwise you could rip apart the arms, mounts, or een FLIP THE TRACTOR. PLEASE make a mount plate like the Farmi uses. Mike

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I have an 8,000 lb. Warn winch that I mounted on a base with a 2" stinger insert for a receiver hitch. With that set up I can use the same winch on anything with a 2" receiver. Most trucks around are set up that way and I welded a receiver tube on my trailer so I can use it there. I fabricated a little piece for my JD4200 that allows me to use it there, too. I just took a heavy piece of bar stock the same dimentions as my drawbar and welded a piece of 2" tube stock to it into which I can insert and secure the winch. Below that I have another attachment point welded on so I can run my winch cable back and attach to it if I need to. Of course, with an 8,000 lb. winch and a 3,000 lb. tractor, it's not likely I'll need more pulling power but I had the tube stock and the welder out and, well, you know...

Even with all of this, I still have to have power to the winch. That can be accomplished a couple of different ways. One is to permanently mount a set of cables from your battery back to wherever you'll mount your winch wherever you'll use it. You'll need a lead from the winch itself, of course. I use Heavy duty red plastic plugs on eich just like tow companies use to attach jumper cables to the battery in their trucks. These jumper cables can be plugged in when they need them and unplugged and secured when they're not using the cables. AWDirect handles them as well as most fork lift companies. Another way to go is to take the clamps off on end of a set of jumper cables and replace them with this same plug. That way you can use your winch virtually anywhere but you have to access your battery every time. I have my truck, trailer, tractor and bulldozer permanently wired but still took a long, heavy set of jumper cables and cut them near on end and added the plugs I described. Now, with the short end off, I can use the long end to jump vehicles off the front or rear of my truck without opening the hood or use it as a power lead for my winch with any vehicle. By attaching the short end, I have conventional cables I can use with any two vehicles to jump start one. Pretty cool, huh?

As to the roller fairlead, I have one and wouldn't be without it. It dramatically cuts down on wear and tear on your cable. I try to always pull straight to the winch but sometimes the situation just isn't an option. I think the roller fairlead is a good way to go. I know it's easy for me to spend your money on something like this but cable isn't cheap either. It is, however, dangerouse when worn from rubbing a hawse (fixed, solid) fairlead. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I hope this helps.

 

[m7040]

the mile marker hydraulic winch is listed as needing 3.5 gpm and 1500 psi. Will this work on my tractor with 11 gpm and 2500 psi system??

 

[rdbrumfield]

you might check with the manufacturer on how much pressure the winch can take. you can always put a pressure relief valve in line with the winch to protect it. it should work fine with the higher gpm.