Quick Hitches 3rd link

   / 3rd link #1  

nwltruck

Silver Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2010
Messages
146
Location
north west Iowa
Tractor
'07 John Deere 3320
Any one know if there is an electric top link instead of hyd. Would like to have an ajustable top link but would like to not tie up my only remote on the rear of the tractor. Or would it just be cheeper to put a deverter valve on and hyd top link.
 
   / 3rd link #2  
Any one know if there is an electric top link instead of hyd. Would like to have an ajustable top link but would like to not tie up my only remote on the rear of the tractor. Or would it just be cheeper to put a deverter valve on and hyd top link.

Go the Diverter route...any electric linear actuator that would stand up to the abuse of a T/L would be super expensive and very slow.

Here is two threads to look at:

3320 diverter installed - TractorByNet.com

Electric Selector Valve Install - TractorByNet.com
 
   / 3rd link #3  
I agree with kennyd, pretty much a waist of time and money even looking for an alternative to the hydraulic route. There is a reason that everyone uses hydraulics, dependable and relatively inexpensive for what you get.
 
   / 3rd link
  • Thread Starter
#4  
The speed is not a problem. I have found a DC actuator that has a 1000# operating load and a 3000# static load, and it is under the price of the hyd top link itself. If this would not be enough. What would be?

It would be going on a JD 3320. The lift capacity is around 2600#.

I would also like to get away from adding more hydraulic lines to the bake of my machine. Just thought it may be a good idea.
 
   / 3rd link #5  
The speed is not a problem. I have found a DC actuator that has a 1000# operating load and a 3000# static load, and it is under the price of the hyd top link itself. If this would not be enough. What would be?

It would be going on a JD 3320. The lift capacity is around 2600#.

I would also like to get away from adding more hydraulic lines to the bake of my machine. Just thought it may be a good idea.

The shock load would well exceed 3000#'s on a T/L. Do you have a link to this actuator?

If this would not be enough. What would be?
A hydraulic cylinder of course. If the was a magic solution that was cheaper than a hydraulic cylinder, and did not require most people to have to add remotes to their tractors don't you think it would be so popular you would have heard or read about it already? You would only be "adding" two lines to the rear of your machine with the diverter.
 
   / 3rd link #7  
Some stuff just doesn't workout very well, not that someone has not already tried it. I would have to say that the size of your tractor would make the Actuator inoperative in short order.

Something to keep in mind is that you have come to a tractor board and asked a question. There are a lot of people here that know what works and what does not. What has been tried and failed and what has worked and does work the best for a certain application. All we have done is point you in the right direction and tried to save you some time and money. Sorry if someone seemed short with you, but that happens some days.

I hope that TBN is able to help you out with your top link quest. ;)
 
   / 3rd link
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I am glad that people will still take the time to help someone else and give them some advice. I for one come up with alot of strange ideas so don't expect this to be the last. Thanks for the advise.... hydrolic it is. :thumbsup:
 
   / 3rd link #9  
I am glad that people will still take the time to help someone else and give them some advice. I for one come up with alot of strange ideas so don't expect this to be the last. Thanks for the advise.... hydrolic it is. :thumbsup:

I'm sure that while your out on the road, you have time and are able to see all sorts of stuff that gives you a lot of different ideas. No harm in asking, that's how we all learn. ;)

If I remember correctly, you should be able to find everything that you may need to know about adding the circuits needed to do this in the John Deere forums. Just to throw a wrench in the mix, as long as your going to do this, you may want to add a hydraulic tilt cylinder. That way you would have a complete Top & Tilt set up. Trust me when I say that if you do much of any grading at all, "TnT" sure is nice to have. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Good luck with your research
 
   / 3rd link #10  
sorry? I didn't know that all the good ideas had been thought of already. Just had an idea and wondered if any one had any input. This is the link to the actuator.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1680-12&catname=electric


I am sorry if you took my post wrong, I did not mean to sound like a Smart A**. I do apologize:drink:

Also, that price is technically more that the HTL with a DPOCV they sell: [URL="https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=hydraulic&byKeyword=yes&search=9-7682"]9-7682
. You already have the most expensive and frustrating part of adding a HTL for most people, the rear remote-use it my friend;)
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2005 MACK GRANITE GU713 DAY CAB (A51222)
2005 MACK GRANITE...
2017 Polaris 500 Ranger Diesel (A50324)
2017 Polaris 500...
2017 Buick Encore SUV (A50324)
2017 Buick Encore...
2019 CATERPILLAR 259D SKID STEER (A51242)
2019 CATERPILLAR...
FORD COBRA REPLICA RACING CAR (A51222)
FORD COBRA REPLICA...
New Kivel Single Skidloader Spear (A50774)
New Kivel Single...
 
Top