4025 shifting procedure

   / 4025 shifting procedure #1  

diesaroo

New member
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
16
Location
Nashville, TN
Tractor
Mahindra 4025 4wd
Hello all. I am a bit of a noob when it comes to tractors so forgive me if this is obvious. Is it better to shift into gear using the high-low lever or the R1234 lever? I had been pre-selecting the R1234 gear first while in h-l neutral then engaging low and it grinds, while clutching of course. I just started leaving it in low and only shifting the R1234 lever and it snicks pretty easily now. Was I damaging my gears before? How can I tell if I hurt anything or caused excess wear? Getting close to 50 hours now. Tia.
 
   / 4025 shifting procedure #2  
Typically one would select the RANGE (High, Med, Low) first, based on the general speed that the work is to be done. For example, Low for plowing, discing, etc. Med for mowing, loader work, or High for transport or maybe spreading fertilizer. Then you would select the 1234 gear within that range to "fine tune" your speed to the job. However, if you were plowing in Low 4 and wanted to take off down the road when you were done, then you could simply leave the the 1234 in 4 and just change the range to High for transport.
 
   / 4025 shifting procedure
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks mcfarmall. I only have high and low since mine is a conventional gear type transmission. So it shouldn't grind either way. I will check again next time I am out. It used to grind both ways till yesterday but I was doing a lot of loader work pushing onto a big dirt pile and after that it seemed OK. Maybe my clutch had been stuck to the flywheel all this time? As far as wear, any way to check and see if there is any gear excessive wear or damage?
 
   / 4025 shifting procedure #4  
Unless you really ground it, you probably haven't damaged anything. If you RTFM, it'll probably tell you the same thing mcfarmall said, which is that you generally use the main (R1234) selector for moving around, and set and leave the range selector. You can leave it in a range gear all the time actually, so unless you're shifting it to a different range, you needn't mess with that lever. I do not believe you need to leave it in range N to start, or for any other reason, really... The range gears are not synchronized, which means you must be stopped to shift them, or they will likely grind some amount.

You'll have to consult the manual, but usually on tractors that don't have a shuttle shift for F-R, R and the gear that lines up it (usually 2nd) are synchronized, and the others are likely not. Again, the manual will say.

This means you'll get no grinding going R-2 or 2-R, even if the tractor is rolling some, but all the rest of the gears will require you to be stopped to engage them. You can shift them on the fly, but you have to match engine speed with ground speed as you shift... Kinda like driving a manual transmission car, with some extra clutch work... I have luck shifting up a gear at a time with minimal grinding, but not down. And it doesn't work at all if you're setting the hand throttle high and trying to shift up a gear... Set it low, and use the foot feed and you'll have better results shifting the non-synchro gears while moving. Or just don't do that if you're not getting it...

BTW, your transmission likely is your hydraulic reservoir too, and so there is a filter that will pick out any dirt or metal shavings. Likely the drain plug is also magnetic, so that'll catch any metal bits too.
 
   / 4025 shifting procedure
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the info 1stdeuce. I never ground it bad as far as I know as I was always putting the hand throttle at idle and coming to a complete stop before clutching, putting range selector in neutral, clutching again, taking the gear selector into neutral, clutching again before shifting into next gear, clutching again and then shifting the range selector back into low, then grind and engage. It just bugs me I was grinding every shift for 50 hrs even if it wasn't a bad grind. Arghh. I will take a look at the hydraulic oil when I change it soon. Looking for chips of gear teeth.
 
   / 4025 shifting procedure #6  
Yeah, you're doing WAY too much shifting, and way too much clutching. Every time you release the clutch, you're spinning up the gears. If you're just going from one gear to another, there is NO reason to release the clutch... Stomp the pedal, come to a stop, make your shifts, whether main or range, and release the clutch to go. You don't have to shift the range to N for ANYTHING, if you want N, shift the MAIN trans (R1234) to N. Putting the main trans in gear, with the range trans in N and releasing the clutch should basically NEVER happen. If you do that, it'll always grind going back into high or low range. Very bad practice...

To check that the clutch is fully releasing, stop in gear and you shift the range to N. DO NOT release the clutch. Try to shift back into high range or low range. If you can put it in gear w/o grinding, the clutch is releasing fine. If not, something is hanging up in your clutch and it's time to get the dealer involved...
 

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